Ford 1220 bellhousing noise

[nsjames]

so I've got this ford 1220. It has 2100 and some change on the meter, Hydrostat transmission, FWA, rear and mid PTO. It's had a rear transmission half put in it. I was using it to carry some gravel on the three point and it started making a terrible noise underneath. It sounded like gears chattering like if you try to engage a pto without clutching, Definitely a bad noise. Shortly after the noise appeared it started loosing drive. I was on the way back to the garage, so I got nearish and shut it off.
While driving I did try to figure out what it was and I'm fairly certain it's coming from the clutch housing. So it seems the two culprits in that area are going to be the clutch disc itself or the splines on the HST transmission.
I guess I can't post links, so I'm full n00b because of the forum rules.
my symptoms sound like this guys, but his video is gone, and I hope that the coupling and such got replaced when the rear end was done, but I did not hire that job out, and the man that did it isn't around anymore. Anyway, I don't hear or feel anything under my seat, it definitely sounds like the noise is coming from the clutch area.

I'm mechanically inclined. I've taken transmissions out of cars and such, but I've never split a tractor.
I've got jacks, jack stands, transmission jacks and all that. No hoist and I'm working in my garage. Pro tip me if you've taken one apart. My plan is to split it at the bellhousing/engine interface and see what's up with the clutch. I'm hoping that it's just the center of the clutch being broken. If it turns out to be output shaft, can I remove the HST unit from the rear half of the case while it's already split?

 

[arto98607]

Tip: Get the Ford shop manual before messing with the hydrostat transmission.

 

[nsjames]

noted. I've located one and it's on it's way.

 

[nsjames]

service manual obtained.

I've got ll the tins and such off. I'm working on the instrument panel. My current stumbling block is the steerig wheel.

any hot tips? I tried a big three jaw, but that just started to deform the outer plastic ring. I'm loathe to go medieval on it because the power steering orbital box is attached directly underneath and I don't want to damage it with hammer strikes. The service manual says to remove it with the appropriate tool, but never actually says what that may be. Am I going to have to make something? Anyone got a picture of the appropriate tool?

 

[Thumper & Buttercup]

We went with a bar puller, look at your steering wheel it has two threaded holes,
get the right bolts and washers to fit, you will need to grind down the middle
of the puller to get the bolts to fit into the holes.

The puller from New Holland cost $220.

 

[nsjames]

We went with a bar puller, look at your steering wheel it has two threaded holes,
get the right bolts and washers to fit, you will need to grind down the middle
of the puller to get the bolts to fit into the holes.

The puller from New Holland cost $220.

no threaded holes.

if it were only that easy.
I did consider drilling and tapping two m6 holes thie morning, but given the width of the bushing, it would be sketchy. I don't think anything smaller than m6 is going to hold on.

 

[Thumper & Buttercup]

I think that is the size we used on our new one.

 

[nsjames]

well I called the local new holland dealer. The same one that sold this machine in '92 actually.
I asked about the special tool, he said they didn't think they had one, and that he'd never seen one.
I was going to try and beg my way to borrowing it for 30 minutes.

so it looks like I'll be hand drilling this bushing and tapping some holes into it for a proper steering wheel puller.
fantastic.

If that doesn't do it, or it looks like I'm about to screw up the steering shaft, I will destroy it and cut/chisel it free and just spend $50 on a new steering wheel.

 

[Thumper & Buttercup]

My dealer did not have the special tool, my mechanic made their own tool like
I did by getting a standard puller and taking a grinder to it in the middle to
get it small enough to get the bolts lined up on the holes.

 

[arto98607]

Do you really need to pull the steering wheel in order to split Ford 1220?

 

[nsjames]

To remove the fuel tank and get at this power steering line I do, yes. I'm just following the service manual.

 

[nsjames]

a bearing splitter abused properly with a harmonic balancer puller and my 1/2 impact got the steering wheel off.
fun times.

I have removed everything else to the point of
"if 4wd remove front driveshaft" in the service manual.

it's pretty vague about it. even for the axle R&R elsewhere in the book it doesn't say anything about disconecting it.
I removed the zerk in the shaft and was going to push the rubber boot up to see what was up in there and it started to puke gear oil out when I poked at it. I thought that seemed odd. normal? Is it splines in there lubed by gear oil from the diff?

I stopped to come ask the internet if I'm doing it right before I get myself covered in gear oil.

after the driveshaft I just have the remaining hydraulic lines to the rear and it's ready to unbolt.

 

[kirkawilson]

Just want to make sure you have ruled out this source for your problem before you split. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/187194-89-ford-1220-9x3-whining.html

According to the pictures in this old thread, the zerk(s) appear to lube the bellhousing, and if not lubed properly, will whine terribly.

 

[nsjames]

it's not from the front driveline.
it happens whether the tractor is moving or not, and I had erratic drive.

The very first thing is says in the service manual under the symptoms is clutch or input shaft.
I also see what looks to be fresh slivers of metal scattered around the inside of the clutch housing when I look through the starter hole.

so I'm fairly certain it's in the clutch housing.

 

[nsjames]

front driveshaft disconnected.
The previous hack left the top rubber boot off, so I slid the entire thing up and off the pinion housing.

of course they also couldn't be bothered to put the bolt in the right spot, so they ground it to a point and used it like a set screw. The splines are now jacked in that spot. I should be able to fix them with a file.

I am consistently disappointed with the work of "professional" mechanics from all fields. It doesn't seem to matter if it's the BMW or the ford tractor dealer, work is always sub par and hacked together because someone that doesn't give a **** is going as quickly as they can. This tractor was bought new by my father in law in 1992, and has never been serviced other than a dealer

learn to be your own mechanic people. At least that way you ca nbe assured it's put together properly.

at this point I'm down to the hydraulic lines running to the rear of the tractor, and then it's ready to split.

 

[nsjames]

split yesterday.
no damage to any splined components.
clutch hub is loose to the disc and the dual mass springs are all loose.

new clutch disc probably fixes it. I'm just going to do the pressure plate and release bearing too.
flywheel is fine. little scotchbrite and good as new.

 

[nsjames]

so new holland is very outlandish in their parts pricing.
aftermarket it be.

 

[nsjames]

parts showed up. didn't look like complete chinese trash.
installed and put it back together yesterday.
I need to asemble the operator's station today and hopefully it doesn't make noises.

has anyone got a model with the exhaust laying flat? Do you have any extra bracketry out front to support the exhaust?
I want to lay this one's exhaust down, because it never seems to fail that the wind is blowing the exhaust right back into your face.
I think it would be better if it were another 3 feet forward and blowing down and away.

standard socket extension clutch tool

only took me two tries to stab it together.
about two hours later it looked like this

 

[pmsmechanic]

has anyone got a model with the exhaust laying flat? Do you have any extra bracketry out front to support the exhaust?
I want to lay this one's exhaust down, because it never seems to fail that the wind is blowing the exhaust right back into your face.
I think it would be better if it were another 3 feet forward and blowing down and away.

I changed the exhaust on my 4410 John Deere to a vertical exhaust from a horizontal one to prevent exhaust fumes from blowing into my face. It's a lot less fumes now.

The original exhaust exited out from under the hood right in front of the left front tire. Now it exits a foot or two above my head. It's slighly noisier this way but a lot less fumes.

Good luck on your tractor.

 

[nsjames]

this one is right at face height with it's exhaust. I'm not sure how I'd feel making it taller, it's already a PITA in the orchard.

but that's interesting that you thought it sucked with the low exit.
I guess I'll just leave it.

What it really needs is a turbo to clean up the exhaust haze.