Hi TBN, I was in the woods with by Ford 1210 with a box blade on it moving stuff around. I didn't realize that the woods pulled one of the pins out of my left 3 point hitch arm and it came off the pin at the tractor. I backed up with the the blade lowered to push some dirt and instead pushed the loose, unattached, lift arm through my axle housing. I'm wondering what to do to fix it. I can get a used housing for a few hundred dollars, but I'd like to try to fix this one first. The hole is not in a structural area, but it's a sizeable hole. Has anyone tried the filler rods you can melt with a propane or mapp torch? I don't have anything to properly weld aluminum, but I don't think an epoxy, or JB adhesive is the way to go. Any advice on fixing a hole like this is appreciated. I have some time because the brake drum has been a bear to get off. I've tried heat and it's been soaked in rust penetrant. I drove bolts into the two threaded holes in the drum and tightened them as much as I feel comfortable. I'll take any advice on getting the drum off too. Any help is appreciated !
Ford 1210 put a hole in rear axle housing. Pics. Fix ideas?
mrmikey
Veteran Member
Is that a crack that runs vertically up from the top of the hole or just a deep scratch?
You'd never get it hot enough with a Mapp torch.
I have and not had any luck with them, being a welder by trade I prefer TIG for something like that but in your case I would say it'll have to come off to do it properly. The oil will be next to impossible to get off the area as I swear it soaks into the aluminum.
Second choice would be mig and do it in place, you'd still have to clean it up properly, no paint or oil residue. You'd be best heating it up to attempt to burn off most of the oil, brush it, heat it again and brush it again and then give it a good wash with a non-chlorinated degreaser. making sure there's none laying in the hollows.
Third choice would be JB, still have to be clean and roughed up. Few small threaded bolts thru the patch to physically hold the patch into the casting if there's no interference.
As you said it doesn't appear to be a structural area, and not having any welding gear I would go with JB.......Mike
Thanks for the reply Mike! I don't think the vertical mark is a crack, but I won't know for sure until I get it off. That's my current challenge. That brake drum is on there good with no way to get behind it. I bolted a slide hammer to the small threaded holds, but the threads pulled out. I'm going to drill and tap the holes for slightly larger bolts and have another go. Seems like my best bet
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Sorry to see this. Glad tha ypu dpn't have the vertical crack. it for use has some effect on structural integrity of the housing but probably not a huge one as it is hole in the middle where the casting in thinnest. If it were my rig, I would look for used replacement axle that would be easy or cheap. I would get a thin aluminum piece such as flashing , cut a square to cover the hole, clean it up the area well with wire brush on dremmel, de-grease the area and JB weld it on place and let t cure over 24 hrs. the purpose of it obviously for the dirt and moisture not to get in and oil not to get out. it is just a patch job till further development.
thanks JC! Good input. If I think I can get decently clean and roughed enough, I might try a patch as a short term fix while I locate the used part. If I can't get the brake drum off soon, it might be the only way I can move the tractor if I need to.
JasperFrank
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The circled area here looks to be problematic if you are going for a thin cover patch with JB weld. If this is a crack, that goes into the other flat of the cover, then I would call that a structural issue that could propagate.
Thanks Jasper,
I'm going to take a closer look at that spot to see if it's a crack or not. Picture does look like a crack. I may have been focused on the hole and not noticed. I agree with you. Structure would be compromised if it's cracked from the hole past that shoulder in the casting. Thanks for the input. It would be easier to make some decisions if could get the darned thing off!
I'm going to take a closer look at that spot to see if it's a crack or not. Picture does look like a crack. I may have been focused on the hole and not noticed. I agree with you. Structure would be compromised if it's cracked from the hole past that shoulder in the casting. Thanks for the input. It would be easier to make some decisions if could get the darned thing off!
Rebeldad1
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i have had very good luck using a welder who specializes in cast iron welding. looks like new and will be 100%.
JasperFrank
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I feel your pain, as this almost just happened to me. One of the lower three point pins just broke off. Fortunately I saw the mounting pin on the ground, just before I was going to backup with the box scraper, and could get the draw arm roped off from creating any damage. I have become so concerned about the lynch pins, that I zip tie them now as I have had the same issue of roots and saplings, releasing the loops and pulling the pins out. I wish you good fortune, finding a replacement housing. My Ford Shop Manual, I&T, FO-46, oddly, makes no mention of the 1210, so I can't give you any direction on how to get the housing off. There is another I&T manual, FO-44 that does include the 1210, but the I&T website is gone.
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Great advice Rebeldad! I think I'll bring the part to a welder for pro advice, and a quote, when I get it off. Jasper, I will, for sure, zip tie, wire, band and tape! the pins in once I get this all behind me! Hopeful that 24 hrs of rust penetrant has worked some magic on the bound brake drum!
