Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430

/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #1  

KoonHunter51

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Messages
131
Location
Marshall, NC
Tractor
FarmPro (Jinma)2430
OK, Just getting ready to do much needed maintenance
I have drained & changed Gearbox & ready to change engine oil & hydraulic oil
I found drain for oil & 4x4 axle, but I don't have location pin-pointed to drain hydraulic at 3-point (Rear)
Looks like a remote stub on the right lower side (Looking From Back), but I am thinking that is return access.
Can fluid be drained there, or do I need to vacuum out at inlet/fill site ?
Thanks, (WAITING ON SNOW ARMEGEDDEN)
David
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #2  
Not quite sure why there's not an actual drain plug, you'd think that was an engineering basic. I haven't personally owned a 30hp Jinma, but I seem to recall a discussion about having to temporarily disconnect one of the hydraulic lines and use the vacated hole as a drain. If memory serves, it may have been on the right side rear when working from the back end of the tractor. Whichever connects lowest on the sump anyway.

//greg//
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #3  
I have a Jinma 354 and there is no hydraulic drain. I change the fluid using an oil extractor pump, it's easy if the fluid is warm. I have heard that an easy way to drain the fluid is to disconnect one hose from the steering cylinder and spin the steering wheel.
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #4  
Dunno if yours is the same as my 204 and it's been a few years since I've done mine so take that into account LOL. I seem to remember there was a bolt in the top link mount or something that would drain it, I think. I do remember it was messy as anything as there was no way to put a funnel or anything under it, I ended up using a oil drain pan and letting it run down over everything.....Mike
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Pictures of Banjo fitting
Looks light a great place to drain & not messy

banjo 001.jpgbanjo 003.jpgbanjo 002.jpg
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #6  
If your tractor is like mine I think that's the hookup for a single-acting cylinder. There's a knob under the seat that controls whether fluid goes to the 3-point hitch or this cylinder. They share the same controller. The fluid direction is determined by the position of the control handle and the 3-point hitch: if the hitch is lower than the current position of the handle (ie if fluid would flow into the lift cylinder if it wasn't diverted), fluid flows out. If the hitch is higher than the handle position fluid flows back.

So in the outbound position this hookup is attached to the pressurized side of the pump. Opening it with the engine running would empty your fluid in a hurry, but I wouldn't recommend that. In the inbound position it's connected to the sump. I don't know if it's a straight connection or if it would drain. You can certainly try. One warning though: to get it into the inbound position, what you have to do is lift the 3-point hitch, then turn the diverter knob, and then lower the lift control handle. Do not do this with any weight on the hitch! In order to turn the diverter knob back to the hitch lift position you need to relieve any pressure on the hitch. If there is weight on the hitch you will find yourself in a catch-22 position where you can't turn the diverter because you need to lift the hitch, and you can't lift the hitch because the diverter needs to be turned.
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Well, I've got all the maintenance & fluids change done, except for the hydraulics, even cleaned the fuel tank & radiator.
quicksandfarmer,
The only valve,(in front of the seat) this one has is for regulating the 3-point down speed,
If I raise the 3-point, then tighten the valve, then lower the handle, this will relieve pressure ?
I had a newer Foton that had 2 remote hookups & they were on the left back, I had a 24hp Jinma that this port/hookup location was to a FEL
This 30hp has 1 remote on the left & this pipe (Picture) on the right
I sure don't want to get hydraulics messed up
A local guy has a Jinma 304, & I will see if he's drained his hydraulics
REMOTE PIPE 001.jpgREMOTE PIPE 003.jpgREMOTE PIPE 004.jpg
David
 
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/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #9  
The black pipe on the right sure looks like a drain. I don't have that on mine and I have the single-acting remote on the right, not the left like yours.

The lift speed adjustment is the knob I was talking about. If you turn it all the way so the lift speed is zero then the fluid goes to the single-acting remote.

What Tommy said would work too. I didn't think to do that because I'm reluctant to take things off when I don't know what i'm doing...
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #10  
greetings from China Jinma tractor prts supplier. good opinion.
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #11  
Yes, this can also be ok.


Kevin
Greetings from China brand tractor parts supplier.
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #12  
Hope you can settle down the problem.

Kevin
Greeting from China brand tractor parts supplier
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #13  
Well, another ?
How long is the stem on the front end fluid check?
Front differential gear oil is unrelated to stiff steering. It's hydraulic fluid in the PS pump that operates the hydraulic steering cylinder. But if the fluid you see is tan, that means it's time to drain/flush and refill with clean 80W90 gear oil. There may not actually be a dipstick for the front axle housing. On mine, I could see the axle shaft with the fill plug removed. I slowly added gear oil until it just covered the shaft, and left it at that. If the outboard drives are low too, it takes a while for the gear oil to work its way out there. You should check an hour or so later to see if any more topping up is necessary.

//greg//
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Yea greg, l did edit post.
Fluids plural power steering & 4x4
Steering has got a little tighter/harder, was pretty easy & smooth before
Looks like PS fluid is a little low & dingy/dirty looking
David
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Power Steering diagnose & fluid change ?
Has any one drained/changed fluid in PS & how to check pump for flow ?
Pump is 2 stage with PS in front
Steered/Drove easy like a luxury car before, now has tight/hard steering

Dummy found the fluid check for 4x4 axle, didn't realize there were 2 inlet access
Made note to self; Self; Quit working in the dark
David
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430
  • Thread Starter
#16  
#1; Drain 4x4 axle ?
Is there 3 drain plugs ?
Removed small pipe plug at center of axle
Wheel hubs on this 2430 have no drain plugs

#2; Does power steering system have a filter ?

David
 
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/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #17  
Power steering should indeed have a filter. With the cover off, I'd expect to see a center post and fastener. Remove the fastener, reach into the fluid, lift out the cartridge filter. After you drain, flushing is imperative. I recommend kerosene. Drain as much as you can from reservoir, lines, cylinder - then refill with kero. Drive around and do a few figure 8s, to circulate the kero. Ideally that will clean the relief valve in the pump, which is likely the source of the increased resistance you're feeling. If the reservoir turns dirty again, drain/flush/circulate again with fresh kero.

Front outboard drive housings should each have a (rather small) drain plug near the bottom, facing rearward. Square head I think. The steel is soft, and it's (too) easy to round them off if you don't have a tight fitting wrench. Might be a good idea to soak them in penetrating fluid before even touching them with a wrench.

And the dipstick was my fault. I should have also mentioned earlier that some have two plugs, only one of which may have a dipstick. Nevertheless, the recommendation to top up only until the axle shaft is covered remains valid. Right/left plugs speed up the process of adding thick gear oil. When adding from a single hole, it takes much longer to flow through the center hub and onward to the drive housing on the other side. With two fill holes, you can get fluid flowing both directions at the same time.

//greg//
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430
  • Thread Starter
#18  
The Power Steering reservoir/tank has a plastic, ? spring loaded canister ? in one side, but I did not see any filter
Can not find "drain" for steering box either

These 4x4 drive housings have no "Pipe Plug" drain but do have plate on the bottom with a center bolt
My diagram shows that as a "plug" but it is faded & I can't see where it goes or if it connects to, or to the vertical 4x4 shaft
Edit; (Removed center bolt & fluid from housing drained)
I replaced seals in a 28hp Jinma 4x4 I had & I do not remember the center bolt
David
 
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/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Hydraulic Oil ? Power Steering Fluid ?
Local TS only have ISO 48 Oil no ISO 32 or AW 32
I figured the 48 oil will be all right in the 3-point lift but what about the Power Steering ?
Tractor has little use in winter & cold days
Thanks,
David
 
/ Fliuds Drain Farm Pro 2430 #20  
Since the bottom of the outboard drives it typically lower than the center pumpkin drain, you're gonna leave some dirty gear oil behind. But if there are no outboard drains, I guess you'll just have to live with it.

Never in my life have I ever heard or ISO48. I'm thinking you mean ISO46. If true, It's just a little thicker than ISO32. Given that you don't anticipate much cold weather operation, ISO46 should work fine. Just understand that - on that odd cold day when you actually use the tractor - it will just tak a little longer for the ISO46 to warm up (compared to ISO32)

//greg//
 
 
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