Flail Mower Flail Mower...Confusion

[db2]

I've searched the threads for info on flail mowers. Sort of contradictory information out there. I have a NH TC40DA and I am looking at purchasing a Befco H40 of H70 series mower 72" or 74" wide. An optional overrunning clutch (driveline) is available as are fine cut, detach and Y-blades.

My question to experienced uses is how tough are flail mowers. What are the different blades used for. Some say they won't stand up to 1 inch saplings and others say they will. My intended use is to cut unused hay fields and areas in the yard where my tractor fits. The land is hilly and a lot of it is uneven. As well there are a few rocks poking out but I could avoid most of those. Some areas have shrubs (spirea) but most of the area is grass and weeds. I presently cut with a rotary mower (brush hog) and a JD 48" riding lawn mower. The wider flail mower may help me get the job done a little quicker with nicer results. Will a flail mower work for me?

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[eberlej]

I have a 60" Bush Hog flail mower that I would not trade for anything. As far as I'm concerned, the biggest difference between flail mowers are the blades. I've seen mowers with very lightweight blades that are relatively inexpensive. My BH blades run about $4.00 each times 80. Consequently, you try not to do wholesale blade changes. The BH blades angle about 45 degees close to the end and blades run in pairs, angled out making a "Y". I believe that some of the lighter blades incorporate a "Y" in an individual blade. Remember, the heavier the blade, the more durable. A keep a few on hand as I break one or two a year. You will know as soon as you break one because the machine will be thrown out of balance and make lots of noise and vibrate a lot. This may not be a factor with the lighter bladed machines. If I remember correctly, the fine cut blade forms an "L" and I think they had a rock blade that was shorter. The standard angle blade leaves a very nice finish.

Usage: It will not compare in capability with the rotary mower. I would recommend in knocking it down with the RM and then going over it with the FM. I routinely run over dead branches a couple of inches thick and make them disappear. If you get a rock under there, it makes a lot of noise until it finally spits it out or digests it. I try very hard to stay away from the rocks due to the blade costs. You can mow stuff thats a couple feet tall but probably not as fast as with a RM. You probalby would never use your riding mower again if you can get the flail mower on it.

The most remarkable difference between a finishing type mower and a flail mower is how clean the flail mower is. When I ran a finishing mower, I would be covered with dirt by day's end and have to hose off outside. I can run the flail mower all day and hardly have any dirt on me.

Last observation that I'll make note of is blade rotation. My BH has a reverse rotation. The draw back is that it will not pick up the wheel tracks and they will be visible the next day. I believe that there are machines with a forward rotation and this would pick up the grass again as it's cut after your tractor wheels layed the grass down. This also depends on the type of grasses you are cutting.

Hope this helps.

 

[db2]

Thanks for the reply. You've answered a number of my questions. I'll check out the different flail mowers available in my area and see if there are noticeable differences in the blade metal.

 

[Rick_Taylor]

I have a BEFCO H-40 72" flail. I have the fine cut blades which have a left and right facing blade on each hanger. I am trying to trade it for a finish mower. The flail cuts grass wonderfully, can't tell the cut from my ZTR. It doesn't leave wheel marks. The best part is that it is so short. It feels like part of the tractor. I had a NH TC-40 when I bought it and now have a Kubota L4330HSTC. Works fine with either tractor. The problem is when I get off the pretty grass and onto fields covered with our 'native grasses' (big weeds). First the blades dull quickly and sharpening 76 blades is the pits. Two, they are fragile. If you hit any of your rocks plan on replacing several blades. Three, the blades for this mower are expensive and do not seem to be available at any of the usual internet discounters. My dealer charges $6-9 each. (Left and right are differently priced, go figure). Hit a one inch branch, you better hope it is mostly dead and ready for the compost pile. Hit a green 1" limb and there go more blades. My mower is clean, in good shape, and still has the stickers on it. PM me for a VERY good deal if you still want a BEFCO flail.

 

[db2]

Rick:

From your experience it doesn't sound like the Befco with fine blades will not do the job I want it to do. I'm wondering if the fine blades are the issue. From the above post it seems the Brush Hog stands up fine to "coarser" material.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[BruceNorthEast]

db2:

I'm new to flail mowers, I'm borrowing a friends for a few months.

About all I can tell you is what he told me: he originally got it to use in an old hayfield that wasn't being harvested (keep growth down) and found it was just too slow - this is a 7' machine.

I guess it's great for maintaining a decent sized grassy area (maybe a park?), and it mulches everything up real well.

He's shredded a brush pile with it, a couple inches thick.

It has a full width roller that follows the blades to help prevent scalping while maintaining a close cut. But he warned that it could be bent if I catch a good size rock that doesn't let it ride up and over...

Bottom line, if you are looking to keep a large (and possibly overgrown) area relatively well maintained in the shortest time possible, then a flail mower probably isn't your ideal choice. But if you want to convert some pasture into an extended lawn/grass area and don't mind taking it a little slower then it may well be.
Bruce.

 

[db2]

Bruce: Thanks for the information....I appreciate everyones input. I'm learning some important things here.

Regards

 

[Karlo]

flail heads vary quite a bit from a very light tooth to substantially heayy brush tooth that will cut in a forward or reverse direction, Ive found tha while the brush ax typ teeth are pretty aggressive for brush and will cut grass there is a tooth that is verry durable and is a good combination type application. It originated on the bomford flail and is available thru them or in the us will probably be sold through the alamo/tiger group the tooth looks like a small boot, but mows best in the forward direction. I have never seen one thrown or broken, they ware well and as for sharpening this is a flail not a reel and replacement every so often is maintenance.check the hs 40 http://www.bomford-turner.com/
good luck
Karl

 

[sandman2234]

I have a used 6'6" JD flail mower. Very happy with it, but I only cut grass at the church with it. I can cut in 8 or 9th gear with a nice finish, but it gets done by someone every couple weeks, so there isn't much of a load. For the rought stuff, I use my bush hog.
Blades are about $2 at JD.
David from jax

 

[db2]

Fellas Thanks for the info. I'll be dropping in to a few dealers in the next couple of weeks to see what they have to say. I may decide to go with a wider "brushhog" instead of the flail mower. I was hoping that the flail would be able to be used in the hayfield and some rough pasture but right now that doesn't look like a good idea.

Thanks

 

[DirtHauler]

..... well I must be nuts or something! I do high weed mowing and own a rotary and a flail. I bought the Caroni flail (Agri Supply) and have done the following with it; (are you stting down?) cut 1 1/4 acre of 4-5' tall grey thistle weed to the ground; 2 1/2 acres of "hood high" mixed grass in a rocky field; 1/3 acre of 12-18" "mint" weed; About a 1/4 acre of "head high" grass and weeds and the list goes on...

The things I've run over/hit; unseen short stumps; old water well head; wrapped of about 6' chain link fence; plastic fenceing; "chicken" wire; pieces of old pasture fence; 1/2" electrical conduit; old electric cable; several hidden garden hoses; hundreds of rocks from small to large. The worst damage done to the mower.......I bent a few of the "Y" blades, took them off, hammered them back into shape put 'em back on!

I prefer to use the flail on my customers feilds that I know are very rocky for the fact that the flail tolerates rocks etc. alot more then my rotary, can use it in very dry grass on hot days and the finished look is lot nicer.

The Caroni I bought came with 72 "Y" blades (36 pairs) and is a good price. Could buy two of these for the price of just one of the "others". Replacement blades are only $2.29 ea.

"Hammer" blades are more expensive and really don't like rocks although they will shred larger brush and prunings.

And there you have a short story of what this fool does with his flail /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Here's a pic of a typical job I use the flail on.

 

[DirtHauler]

Here's one more..............

 

[db2]

Hey Dirt thanks for the pictures. That's way thicker than anything I would be attempting to cut. Lucky I was sitting down......you've tested your flail mower with just about everything. I pretty much know where all the obsticles are on my place as I've either moved them or encountered them with my rotary mower......and then moved them. From the above posts it seems to me like the type of blades and the manufacturer do make a difference.

Thanks again. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[db2]

I'm finally going to make the purchase.

Is a Overrunning Clutch option necessary?

Would a set of guage wheels be a good idea to add?


Thanks

 

[PBinWA]

I have an old Befco H25 (58") flail. What I like most is the short tail. I mow around a lot of trees and near fences. With my rotary cutter I was always hitting things but the Flail has to stick out less than half of what my rotary cutter did.

It's nice to get the clippings laid out flat too no wind rows.

I'm still tuning mine since it is second hand but so far I am pretty happy with it. I think I figured out why the previous owner got rid of it - he had the blades mounted backwards!

You can see lots of different types of blades in the Flailmaster catalog:

Flail-Master - Mower Replacement Parts, Commercial Riding Mower Parts, Rotary Cutter Parts, Blade grinders, Trimmer Line, Mowing Accessories - Flail Master - Flailmaster -

I'm just mounting my finish blades today so I'll try to report back on how well they cut. Changing blades on a flail is a pain.

Gauge wheels might be nice. I'd like to see a picture of them since mine doesn't have them. What brand offers gauge wheels?

 

[db2]

Befco offers gauge wheels as an option for the H70 and H80 series mowers.

Blade choices include the 2pc reversable Y or the fine cut 1pc standard blade. After reading the posts above I am planning on getting the 2 piece Y blade as I think they would be best for the mowing I plan to do.

 

[PBinWA]

Too bad Befco doesn't show the gauge wheels. If anyone has a Flail with gauge wheels please post a picture.

I will say that Befco service people were good to deal with. Even though my mower is old and I bought it second hand they still sent me out some copies of the manuals and were helpful in getting some new parts to my dealer.

 

[Tom_H]

There are 2 main types of flail mowers and each has a particular application. Light duty models have Y shaped knives and perform fine turf cutting. These are often used in areas where lots of people are standing around: parks, schools, etc. Heavy duty models use big T shaped hammers which break brush. These are often used alongside highways.

Both types are used in lieu of a rotary blade because flails are less likely to launch projectiles (rocks, etc.) at pedestrians or cars. Flails are more expensive and more complex than rotary blades. When you have no potential collateral damage to worry about, rotary mowers are cheaper for lawns, and brush cutters (aka rough cutter, brush hog, rotary cutter) are cheaper for cutting rough stuff. (A brush hog can potentially knock a 5 lb rock several hundred feet.)

There are also medium duty models that leave a cut finer than a HD, but not as fine as LD. The MD also will cut material tougher than LD, but not as rough as HD.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

There are huge differences in flail mowers besides just the cutters. As in all implements, the quality of the product, thickness of metal, size of gear box, type of drive belt, fit and finish, all of these things contribute to the quality of the product.

I bought 2 used flail mowers last year. 1 light duty one with L shaped knives that makes a 90" cut for lawns. I have not reworked it yet, so I can't say how it works, but the body is made of 1/8 sheet metal with the frame work of 1/2" metal and a 2 1/2" drive belt. The best that I can come up with is that it weighs under 1000lbs. My heavy duty flail mower has the Y shaped knives, makes a 102" cut. this mower was like new except for the faded paint on top. still had black paint on the knives. The body on this one is 5/16" thick with the frame work being made from 3/4" and 1" material. It has a 4" drive belt. From looking at others of similar build & size, it weighs in at about 2600lbs. It cuts 2" material no problem. This is not a cheep mower to buy new, if I remember correctly about $8000.

So, just like most implements and attachments, there are big differences, it just makes a difference on what you have to power it with and what you are going to be doing with it.

Good luck

 

[db2]

Thanks for the input.

I plan on getting the Befco H70 (72" with Y blades) as it is the middle model, being a bit beefier than the H40 series and not as tough as the H70 commercial. The comercial unit comes with the Y blades as standard equipment while the H40 and H70 have fine cut blades as standard equipment. I'm assuming the Y blades are better for coarser material so they are the blades I'll go with. I have been cutting my place with a rotary cutter for years and there is no thick woody material. I would like to use the flail mower to cut our blueberry field though.