Fixed My Jeep Cherokee A/C ~ Pass on tip

MacLawn · Aug 4, 2013

I've wanted one of those inline Cherokee 6 cylinders for a long time. They seem to just keep on going! My kind of vehicle! I was wondering about a local automotive a/c shop, brin. If there's a good one in your area?

brin · Aug 4, 2013

MacLawn said:
I've wanted one of those inline Cherokee 6 cylinders for a long time. They seem to just keep on going! My kind of vehicle! I was wondering about a local automotive a/c shop, brin. If there's a good one in your area?

Yes there are several...one I have dealt with in the past and they seem more honest than the dealer...If this adding freon does not get me by ...I will go see them...but if a couple of cans of freon every summer works then that is fine with me...I can do that myself ..takes 30 min and all done.

3930dave · Aug 4, 2013

brin said:
Thanks Dave...I wonder if it is available in the US..? I see it is made in Canada

The Rust Check aerosols are widely distributed in Canada at the retail level. Can't say I've seen them in the USA, but haven't really looked - as I'm chasing other hard to find stuff on my physical shopping trips "down south".

TSC Canada stocks them. They (up here) split off from Tractor Supply in a business sense a while back, but no matter, might be worth a try if they are near you. Even under the same corporation, stocking products can vary quite a bit north/south of the 49'th - I just went through that with Napa.

I like both the Red and Green products, but the Red has a lube property worth mentioning - it's one of the very few things I've found to be effective for keeping steering U-joints from freezing/sticking on my full-size Ford.

If I find a bit of corrosion on a connector/wire, I like to get the Red product on it first - it will wick up under the insulation a ways, to help slow down the corrosion that travels up the wire. Green is a great HD coating to finish with - it will creep a tiny bit, but is more designed to stay put and in place.

Without these Rust Check products handy , I like a good quality Lithium grease to cover electrical connections. The best I've found at retail is Dupont's Lithium grease, sold by Lowes.

Rgds, D.

arlen4720 · Aug 4, 2013

I have a 2001 cherokee, and it has 275,000 miles on it so far. I bought it with about 50,000 on it. My evaporator rotted from the inside out about 6 months after I bought it. Moisture, combined with R134a and its lubricant form an acid. If your dealer had the AC opened up for more than a day or so, then the filter/dryer should be replaced. I replaced my evaporator, at the first sign of trouble, flushed the the whole system with mineral spirits, followed by brake clean. Flushed the compressor with fresh oil. Pulled a vacuum for a couple days, recharged, and never had another bit of trouble...that was 9 years ago.
The jeep has been a fantastic vehicle. I don't think the AC systems are too much of a problem.
Dealer quoted me 1200 for an evap replacement, if I had him do what I did, would have been 2K.
The real test will be how long it takes the 134a to leak out that you put in.
You don't want the acids and decomposed alluminum circulating around and through your compressor.
Sniffers are around 150-200 bucks. Too bad you don't live closer...you could use mine

brin · Aug 4, 2013

Thanks Arlen....Isn't possible the dealer is lying tome about the evaporator...? I mean he even had on the work order when I picked it up ...the evaporator was only suspected...If the freon leaks out I will take it to the AC shop in town...they are honest so far and ask them about replacing the filter / dryer and in the meantime I will ask my home AC guy to use his sniffer on my jeep. thanks again.

Midniteoyl · Aug 4, 2013

brin said:
Come on now...don't hold me in suspense...tell me what I may expect...remember I only have 80K miles on it and it is well cared for....so pray tell what comes next...:confused3:

Some kinda ground fault with the dash...

https://www.google.com/search?q=cherokee+electrical+problems&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US

fficial&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb#newwindow=1&client=firefox-a&hs=fY&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Aofficial&channel=fflb&sclient=psy-ab&q=cherokee+electrical+problems&oq=cherokee+electrical+problems&gs_l=serp.12..0j0i22i30l3.262.9163.0.10891.52.18.1.0.0.5.489.2332.0j11j1j0j1.13.0....0...1c.1.23.psy-ab..43.9.1533.5p71KrRomNo&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.50165853,d.aWc&fp=63f92c4ffb7ef6a8&biw=1283&bih=600

My BIL has it happen once in awhile. He puts it in neutral, turn of, count to 3, turn on and its usually ok for awhile

NormL · Aug 6, 2013

3930dave said:
If it's just the rear air failing, you may be able to have the rear lines capped off. IE. only have the front air working.

If you have to have the whole van ice-cold, then you will want everything fixed. Cut n' cap lines + refill is cheaper solution if you can live w/o rear air. Any competent+honest AC shop should be able to advise you.

Rgds, D.

I like your suggestion! I had been looking for shut-offs to the rear air but didn't find any. Had not thought of capping off. That might work. Had another idea PM'd to me. That was a suggestion to find the leak, clamp a patch over it, evacuate and recharge. That could work if it is on the low pressure side. Not sure that would hold well enough on the high side though.

3930dave · Aug 6, 2013

NormL said:
I like your suggestion! I had been looking for shut-offs to the rear air but didn't find any. Had not thought of capping off. That might work. Had another idea PM'd to me. That was a suggestion to find the leak, clamp a patch over it, evacuate and recharge. That could work if it is on the low pressure side. Not sure that would hold well enough on the high side though.

If it's just a line leaking, pretty easy fix (for an AC mechanic, you need the right tooling). On the van I saw capped off, it was likely the rear evaporator - owner didn't want the expense of the Part+Labour to change that, so went with capping off the rear lines.

He winters down south, and could live with just front air working.

Rgds, D.

zing · Aug 13, 2013

A couple of thoughts for you...

- Freon is an ozone depleting substance. If your leak is very slow you may be able to recharge ocasionally, but multiple times per year is relly not a great idea. There is a reason old fridges and freezers have to have the freon removed before they can be disposed of in most areas now. I am not the ozone police and I have seen enough of your posts to know that you are a thoughtful and caring person so I am not trying to criticise, just letting you know if you were not aware of it.

- I am really surprised that the dealership would recommend the evaporator replacement based on a hunch. Other people have mentioned a sniffer which I have never heard of, but I know when I had a slow leak in the A/C my dealer charged me 75 bucks to recharge it with dyed freon. Then after a few weeks of regular use I brought it in and they were able to spot the leak based on the dye stain at the leak source. The tech was able to lift the hood and show me exactly where the dye stain was, so no guesswork or questioning of their intentions. I find it a bit shoddy (if not shady) that they would recommend an expensive repair (part or labour) based on a guess.

- When it was diagnosed that the compressor was the issue for my car, I was able to source a new one online at less than 1/3 of the cost to buy it from the dealer. It tool an hour of searching and 5 days for the delivery to get it to me from somewhere in New England, and I am in Canada.

My advice is to be sure of the source of the leak rather than replace parts based on this guy's guess, and if you do require an expensive part don't be afraid to try to source it yourself online. You may be able to do much better than the dealer's price.