Fitting Gauges

ChuckT · Mar 26, 2005

I've got a (Sunpro) gauges set that I want to add to our 1510D. There have been several discussions about adding gagues but beore I start I'd like to have one piece of info that I didnot see explained - how the dashbaord is attached to the cowling shhet metal.

The Parts Manual that I have shows the (plastic or phenolic?) dashboard attached to the sheet metal in (only) four or five spots. However the actual attachment mechanism is not clearly illustrated.

Is the illustration correct - there are four or five attachment point, one in each cornor plus one in the center of the lower edge? And what sort of a fastener is used? Some sort of a sheet metal quik-nut on a stud or what?

Thanks!
cvt

Jagmandave · Mar 28, 2005

I just repainted my 1602D and the plastic surround for the gauges is held in with 6 sheet metal screws. I found it easier to remove the whole sheet metal dash and then remove the plastic part.

ChuckT · Mar 28, 2005

So to get the Dashboard off and replace it I'd need to:

1) Remove the Steering Wheel
2) Remove the Dash Cowling
3) Disconnect hour meter, lights, etc.
4) Remove Dashboard from Cowling.

Is that about right?

cvt

Whiskey · Mar 28, 2005

Chuck:

I think that sum's it up, I'm not sure about #2 but you'll figure it out as ya go. Talk about a tight spot getting your hand up under the dash to unplug everything will make you kuckles and the back of your hand bloody. Be very gental with pressure on the dash being old and plastic and out in the sun on a rice field for god knows how long it can be a little brittle.

I think I used a long extension on my 1/4" nut driver or socket wrench to get to the bolts that held the dash to the cowling your maybe screws your have to get good at standing on your head to see them.

Jagmandave's tractor is probley closer to your's than mine is and what he said is probley right on the money.

Where in central Florida are you located?

Whiskey

Jagmandave · Mar 29, 2005

That's about right. The steering wheel might fight a bit, it's on a tapered shaft. I just screwed the nut on till the top of the shaft was just barely showing, then while pulling up on the wheel, smacked the end of the shaft with a 3 pound hammer - it popped right off. The hour meter is run by a cable that goes to the front of the engine - kinda like a speedo cable in a car. It was easier to unhook it after the cowl assy. was loose, cause then you have a little more room for your hand. Other than that - piece of cake!