First Tractor. Deere 3720???

[metroski]

I just purchased a small farm in New Jersey. The property is just under 20 acres and is roughly 10 acres of pasture. The pastures are massively overgrown and need a lot of work. My intention is to convert this to horses.

I was thinking that I need a wide cut mower, mid PTO preferable, a loader, brush hog and a post hole auger (help with the 3000 feet of fencing I need to install).

Is a JD 3720 the right machine? Should I go for the extra $$ on the cab option?

Any idea on what i should expect to pay with the aforementioned attachments.

This is my first tractor. I own a 700cc ATV but i was thinking the tractor as a more viable option for a horse farm.

Any advise is welcome.

Thanks
Mike

 

[jbrumberg]

metroski:

Welcome to TBN ! I would caution you about MMM's in your pasture land; they can seriously compromise your ground clearance especially if your ground has obstacles and is uneven. A rear finish mower if you even need it will give you greater cutting height range and is easier to attach and detach. Jay

 

[the_sandman_454]

I wasn't entirely sure I'd like my 3pt finish mower (Frontier 72" side discharge), but after having used it a small handful of times thus far, I'm happy with the cut quality, and the fact that I don't have to compromise ground clearance with a belly mower, or remove it when I want to drive on uneven ground or in my woods.

I can't tell you whether the 3720 is the right choice for you, but I definitely like my 3520. I brush cut about 3-4 acres, finish mow about 2.5 acres, and the rest of my 20 acres is wooded. Always seem to find some sort of a task to use the loader with.

 

[Greyfields]

After a good solid year of brush hogging, then you can start thinking about finish mowers. The ground clearance on the MMM is restrictive that you'll find yourself swapping it on/off more than it's worth (at least that's what I watch my neighbor doing out my window).

Unless you have a specific space requirement you are worried about, it would make a lot of sense to step up to the 4120. You'll get more lift capacity on your 3-point and front loader. I'm learning pretty quickly that being able to lift a few hundred pounds extra is a big deal when moving big hay bales.

The 4120 is a tuned-down 4720 with identical hydraulic power with the benefit of the de-tuned engine which should give you a lot longer life span. The 3720 is a jacked-up machine (and I'm sure a fine one) which is using a lot of turbo to create the HP. I think the larger tractor would give you a longer and better experience.

 

[VA Rebel]

I'm getting ready to buy a 4720 sometime this summer and I am gonna get the cab for a number of reasons. number one is it is hot and humid here in Virginia and nothing beats staying out of the heat and dust. I don't know what your summers are like up there, but if it isn't too hot or humid skip the cab.
Like the others said, rear mowers are the way to go.

 

[metroski]

Hmm, thanks for some of the good points. I hear the MMM concerns. My main use for the MMM was not to deal with the pastures but to cut to 1 1/2 or so acres of grass around the house. I would use the rotary mower to deal with the fields. But maybe I'm better off with a zero turn or maybe even a self powered finish mower that I can drag behind my atv for the lawn care. Then I wouldn't have to deal with the clearance issues and such related to the MMM unit. I can also save the $350 or so for the Mid PTO option required for the MMM.

I really need the rotary, loader and auger.

I also hadn't considered a 4000 series because I figured it was slightly less nimble because of the increased size. But I only needed the nimbleness if I was going to finish mow the grass with the tractor.

Only problem now is that I will have a hard time buying the low end of any series. If I go 4000 series it will probably be a 4720. If I do that do I violate the principle of going from 3720 to 4110 in the first place?

Thanks
Mike

 

[DuaneW]

With that much fence to build, thats alot of hole to drill, drop post, fill and tamp tight. I would seriously look at a post driver. Its faster and will get you tighter posts. My brother picked one up at an auction (8") for $125. Functioned fine, just had to make mounts. Has made custom mounts for the FRONT of the AC 175 and a JD 2840, also has a 3pt mount made for it so he can use it on his little JD (4310).

DuaneW.

 

[Z-Michigan]

First question - any "big" tasks that the tractor must be capable of? Are round bales or running your own baler in the future? You didn't mention either, but if either one is you would need to go bigger than a 3720.

Second - do you want this to be your finish mower also? A 3720 would be on the large range but not out of the question for mowing your lawn. Anything bigger is probably too big for a lawn.

Third - are you planning to do wood posts everywhere? Are metal t-posts an option? They are sooooo much easier to put in and work with, and will probably last 4 times as long, but they do look different.

If you are not planning on round bales, doing your own baling, or serious tillage, I think the 3x20 series would be fine, with a 5 or 6' brushhog to start with. The cab is optional but would definitely be really nice to have when it's hot and nasty out, or if you want to mow after dark without bugs eating you alive. I guess if you want the cab I would go 3720 and if no cab I would consider a 4120, which is going to be around the same price as an open 3720. I would skip the MMM and mid PTO and either use a RFM or save the bucks and get a riding mower for the 1 acre around the house. I have a similar 20 acre setup and we use a riding mower for 1-2 acres and the brushhog for anything else.

The pastures are massively overgrown and need a lot of work. My intention is to convert this to horses.

Well, hate to break this to you, but you can't directly turn pasture into horses. You have to have little horses, and they turn pasture into larger horses.

 

[Greyfields]

Well, hate to break this to you, but you can't directly turn pasture into horses. You have to have little horses, and they turn pasture into larger horses.

good one


I just wanted to add that you can install a mid PTO later, you don't have to get the tractor with it. If you elected later to get a MMM, you could always go that route.

 

[RoyJackson]

good one


I just wanted to add that you can install a mid PTO later, you don't have to get the tractor with it. If you elected later to get a MMM, you could always go that route.

Yep, if it's a dealer installed option.
That's not applicable on all tractors.

 

[radman1]

good one


I just wanted to add that you can install a mid PTO later on, you don't have to get the tractor with it. If you elected later to get a MMM, you could always go that route.

A mid pto can be added later, but it will cost much more than what it would cost as an option on a 3X20 series. Dealer told me just the mid pto will cost the same but the labor is $$$$ and takes a few hours. Either buy it now or probably never get it.

 

[metroski]

You guys are great, the suggestions/help here have already exceeded my expectations. I hope that a few years from now I am as useful to some newbie the way you guys have been for me. Its greatly appreciated.

To answer some of the questions:

no rolls or bailing requirements. I don't plan on bailing my own hay. I have enough pasture land for 3 turnout areas a riding ring for my reiners and a possible indoor riding ring as a future deliverable.

I need the brush hog to keep the pastures tame. I do need to kill, disk and seed the pastures on a rotation policy as horses beat the paddocks up pretty badly. My plan is to only use two paddocks at a time while the third gets a break and gets re done.

It sounds like a separate riding mower is probably my best option for normal lawn maintenance.

I wanted the cab option for the very reason that I wanted the option of doing my brush hogging, disking, fertilizing, seeding etc at night if possible. I do work a full time day job and having the nightime option makes things a lot easier.

Heat and humidity I could actually deal with to save myself $6k but the bugs are a different story. So that point is a great one.

On the fencing, I am pretty much set on wood or if I can stomach the cost a composite. They are just much more esthetically appealing and this is my residence not just a farm. Curbside appeal does matter, not so much with me but with the female entity cohabitating this dwelling, if you get my drift.

The loader is also a must I;m thinking because it just makes general chores so much easier. Mucking stalls, moving hay bails etc.

What should I expect to pay for a 3720 cab with brush hog, auger and 300cx loader. Looks like $35k or so from JD website msrp. **** that's a lot. My '06 silverado with a 360hp diesel only cost me $45k...


Oh yeah, and thanks for the reproduction education. I always thought that with a little elbow grease my pastures would yield horses... ;>

wise guys !

I guess I meant sustain horses, I deserve the ribbing... good work, I'd have done the same.


Mike
NJ

 

[Z-Michigan]

no rolls or bailing requirements. I don't plan on bailing my own hay. I have enough pasture land for 3 turnout areas a riding ring for my reiners and a possible indoor riding ring as a future deliverable.

Deliverable? Oh my you must be in management...

I need the brush hog to keep the pastures tame. I do need to kill, disk and seed the pastures on a rotation policy as horses beat the paddocks up pretty badly. My plan is to only use two paddocks at a time while the third gets a break and gets re done.

That sounds like a very intensive use of land. How many horses and how many acres of pasture? A typical rule of thumb is one horse per 2 acres... you may be able to manage one horse per acre with good rotation and a really healthy stand of grass. Above that pastures will get beat up as you seem to be very familiar with.

If you do need to re-work the pastures frequently, read posts here and add your own questions before choosing equipment. Lots of expertise here. You may want a tiller if the pastures are on the smaller side (2 acres or less) and you'll probably need a subsoiler or scarifier if the pastures are getting really compacted.

I wanted the cab option for the very reason that I wanted the option of doing my brush hogging, disking, fertilizing, seeding etc at night if possible. I do work a full time day job and having the nightime option makes things a lot easier.
Heat and humidity I could actually deal with to save myself $6k but the bugs are a different story. So that point is a great one.

If you can afford the cab, get it! And I think the 3720 is the best option for that given your stated requirements. The 4x20 series cab models get amazingly pricey. The cab models usually have more worklights also, precisely for working at night.

The loader is also a must I;m thinking because it just makes general chores so much easier. Mucking stalls, moving hay bails etc.

I assume you mean moving square hay bales, based on your earlier statement about rounds. No problem there. As for mucking stalls, what size are your stall doors? If they're a typical 4', your tractor isn't going to fit in them. But you may be able to drive to the door and then just shovel manure into the bucket. Another option would be a small manure spreader, which you could also pull with these tractors. A third option would be to modify your stall doors to be wide enough to get the tractor in.

What should I expect to pay for a 3720 cab with brush hog, auger and 300cx loader. Looks like $35k or so from JD website msrp. **** that's a lot. My '06 silverado with a 360hp diesel only cost me $45k...

Yeah, they're not cheap. I think somewhere around $30k for the 3720 cab with the loader. Brushhog will add another $1000-2000 depending on what size and quality level you want. The post hole digger shouldn't be too much, and given the posts on forums here there must be 20 people ready to sell them for the cost of shipping. Definitely look used for those. You may use it a lot for one year but then it will probably be gathering dust.

 

[coasterez]

If you don't like the price of JD. There are many other choices that are just as good and a lot cheaper: MF, Kioti, Mahindra, TYM, Agco, etc.

 

[metroski]

how about Kubota and New Holland

 

[Z-Michigan]

how about Kubota and New Holland

Both perfectly good also. I'd look at Kioti if you have a dealer near you. And all the brands mentioned above too.

 

[metroski]

Deliverable? Oh my you must be in management...

Not quite management but close enough. ;>
I am a software architect with my area of specialty being low latency trading systems software for Banks and brokerage firms. I'd much rather be able to sustain a living in horses or archery but no such luck.

That sounds like a very intensive use of land. How many horses and how many acres of pasture? A typical rule of thumb is one horse per 2 acres... you may be able to manage one horse per acre with good rotation and a really healthy stand of grass. Above that pastures will get beat up as you seem to be very familiar with.

I'm thinking 3 acre and a half pastures with another acre for a sand paddock/riding ring. Only 3 horse in total. Possibly a fourth in a year or so.

If you do need to re-work the pastures frequently, read posts here and add your own questions before choosing equipment. Lots of expertise here. You may want a tiller if the pastures are on the smaller side (2 acres or less) and you'll probably need a subsoiler or scarifier if the pastures are getting really compacted.

Absolutely, after I get everything cleared and fenced I will absolutely reach out regarding the pasture management bit.

If you can afford the cab, get it! And I think the 3720 is the best option for that given your stated requirements. The 4x20 series cab models get amazingly pricey. The cab models usually have more worklights also, precisely for working at night.

Exactly why I was thinking the cab. It is roughly $6k more but probably well worth the money being that most of my pasture work will be performed in the evening.

I assume you mean moving square hay bales, based on your earlier statement about rounds. No problem there. As for mucking stalls, what size are your stall doors? If they're a typical 4', your tractor isn't going to fit in them. But you may be able to drive to the door and then just shovel manure into the bucket. Another option would be a small manure spreader, which you could also pull with these tractors. A third option would be to modify your stall doors to be wide enough to get the tractor in.

Yes, squares not rolls. The door to the barn is wide enough to drive something 96" wide down the isle. Good enough. I can muck directly into the loader at the stall doors.
Possibly a spreader at some point but with only three horses I may not really need it. I have to stick to the absolute essentials to begin with. Lots of dollar spend here.

Yeah, they're not cheap. I think somewhere around $30k for the 3720 cab with the loader. Brushhog will add another $1000-2000 depending on what size and quality level you want. The post hole digger shouldn't be too much, and given the posts on forums here there must be 20 people ready to sell them for the cost of shipping. Definitely look used for those. You may use it a lot for one year but then it will probably be gathering dust.

[/QUOTE]

To the point the other poster made. Should I be looking at other brands or is JD the best. I want to get something good. I wouldn't want to compromise quality for dollars. I'd rather spend the money and get the best tool for the job.


Thanks once again

Mike

 

[metroski]

Both perfectly good also. I'd look at Kioti if you have a dealer near you. And all the brands mentioned above too.

There are a few Kioti dealers. Which model would be compareable to the JD 3720?

 

[Z-Michigan]

I'm thinking 3 acre and a half pastures with another acre for a sand paddock/riding ring. Only 3 horse in total. Possibly a fourth in a year or so.

This is a fairly high stocking rate but depending on your soil conditions it may be possible to get the pastures in shape so that they don't need renovation that frequently (though probably still every couple of years). It would require thorough preparation and getting a very healthy stand of tough but high yielding grass to grow, and then rotating them very efficiently, but in NJ climate conditions I think it would be possible. If you could find another acre or two for pasture use that would make it a lot easier to achieve, I think. Another option - if you have to go intensive - would be to use some of the really high yielding annual grasses in one or two pastures, maybe along with some grazing tolerant alfalfa. Lots to think about when you reach that point.

To the point the other poster made. Should I be looking at other brands or is JD the best. I want to get something good. I wouldn't want to compromise quality for dollars. I'd rather spend the money and get the best tool for the job.

The $2,000,000,000,000 question.... I do not think there is an universal agreement on this question. I chose JD because for the size tractor I wanted I thought it was the best deal. This coming after my initial tractor shopping didn't even include JD because I just assumed it was "paying for green paint" and wasn't any better than other brands if even as good. After lots of looking I changed my mind completely on that. Having said all that, from the tractors I've looked at I think Kubota, NH and Kioti are all very close to JD in engineering and quality, and in particular size classes sometimes better (for instance, if you wanted a 45hp ROPS tractor, I think Kioti's DK45 is hard to beat; not necessarily better than a JD 4120, but practically the same for a couple $k less). CASE IH has the same CUTs as NH, just with red paint (literally). I don't have nearby dealers for MF, TYM, or Mahindra so I haven't been able to inspect those. Also, if you want a midsize CUT with a cab, there aren't many options - I believe only JD and Kubota make cab models in that size range. Since you want a cab and seem to be ready to spend for it, I would probably just look closely at those - basically the Kubota L-series smaller and midsize models, and the JD 3720. Kubota's B3030 might also be worth a look but is smaller than others you're looking at, though not by a whole lot. Actually, a B3030 cab is definitely worth a look, as it should be closer to $20k with loader and would still let you use a 5' brushhog; its also a bit smaller so it would more easily fit in the barn, and since you're not requiring super FEL lift capacity that shouldn't be an issue.

I think Kioti's smallest cab tractor is a DK55 which is bigger than you're looking at, but if I'm wrong I would look Kioti. The size range of what you're looking would probably be a CK35, DK35 (larger frame) and DK40.

 

[Oleozz]

The smallest Kioti cab model is the DK45. I have about 200 hrs on mine and it's done every job that I've asked of it, plowing, discing, harrow work, mowing, spraying, FEL work, you name it and I've probably attempted to do it with this tractor and so far, so good. I would recommend you taking a look at the Kiotis if you have a dealer nearby.