First time with 7018 ac

[bigtiller]

I opened a box of 7018ac and used it for the first time ever. I started the weld with 7014 on my boom pole lifting point and planed to cover it with 7018. I got about half way through the rod when it quit welding. I couldn't get it to start again. I scratched it on the table and got no or very little sparks. I moved the ground and nothing happened.

Finally I went back to 7014 and finished the weld. What's going on?

I'm not a weldor and here is proof.

 

[oldnslo]

Is 7018 the rod that will burn up inside the flux coating and potentially cause the arc to stop? It has been a lot of years since I used any so going off of a feeble memory.

 

[Gary Fowler]

7018 is an iron powder coated electrode and if you break the arc the flux will seal over the end of the rod. You rarely will be able to scratch start it again, you instead have to strike it rather hard on the weldment to crack the flux off OR tap it with a piece of steel. I have never had one that you couldn't restart by just tapping it hard on the steel again. Many times it will stick when doing this and have to take it out of the rod holder to break it off.

 

[bigtiller]

Thanks Gary. I am certain (i think) I can remember to do that next time.

I was anxious to try out the 7018 yesterday and disappointed at having to do my second pass with 7014 again so I could finish that project.

oldnslo, That made sense to me so I went out to look at the rods. The 14 & 18 rods were burnt down equally. It seams Gary learned me something and remembered you something. Hopefully we can keep it on file for awhile.

 

[RNeumann]

7018 Re-Strike Techniques Explained - YouTube

The 7018ac may make things worse- I’ve never used AC so I don’t know for sure.

 

[bikerdib]

You already have been told what is going on so I won't say any more except that in my experience when you have to hit the rod hard to restart, lots of times the flux will be knocked off 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the end also. Just be aware that it won't weld very well when first restarting because of this.

I still run 7018 AC rods on DC because there is less splatter.

One last comment, IMO you are doing the welds in reverse. If I were doing it, I'd do the first welds with 7018 then if you need to, cover with 7014. That should give a stronger connection. 7014 is generally considered a fast fill rod used when the joint needs to be closed but not necessarily structural.

 

[bigtiller]

When it blows out, can i chop 1/2" off in the abrasive chopsaw and start welding again?

 

[BukitCase]

If you're gentle about it - otherwise it tends to just break flux further back if you put too much down pressure on the saw. I always had better luck just immediately pinching the end off (heavy weld gloves, of course) then as Gary said, do a FIRM version of the "strike a match" move - once you see a spark, you're good to go again... Steve

 

[bigtiller]

Thanks BC, another great tip.

 

[bigdeano]

How many amps are you running, and what size rod? Looks to me like you need more current. Get down close so you can see what's happening with the weld and move along smoothly like you're a machine. With a little practice your welds should look great.

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

Couple quick drags over a file cleans that piece of slag off nicely with no damage to the rod coating.

My stub pail has the chipping hammer, brush and file in it.

 

[bigtiller]

How many amps are you running, and what size rod? Looks to me like you need more current. Get down close so you can see what's happening with the weld and move along smoothly like you're a machine. With a little practice your welds should look great.

My old Forney welder was set at 160 amps using 1/8" rod.

The metal was a KK boom-pole and a 2x5" piece of 1/4" thick worn out scraper bar from a rear scraper blade.

 

[bigtiller]

Couple quick drags over a file cleans that piece of slag off nicely with no damage to the rod coating.

My stub pail has the chipping hammer, brush and file in it.

I have been meaning to buy another file for the metal area in the shed. The one I have now looks like an old rasp&file that was used for trimming horse hooves. I don't use it much.:laughing:

 

[yomax4]

If you have a Hot Start feature on your machine it will make re-strike a bit easier. If not, Carry on as stated above. All brands restrike better than others and some have limited fingernail after breaking the arc. I'm a fan of the Atom Arc brand now part of ESAB.

 

[k0ua]

When it blows out, can i chop 1/2" off in the abrasive chopsaw and start welding again?

Just take your leather gloved thumb and break off the "corn" that forms on the end. It is not a problem. Just get in the habit of doing that when you need to restrike. Problem will be solve. No you will not be shocked nor burnt, if you wait a few seconds. You should always wear thick leather welding gloves when stick welding.

 

[k0ua]

Couple quick drags over a file cleans that piece of slag off nicely with no damage to the rod coating.

My stub pail has the chipping hammer, brush and file in it.

That works well too of course. But I just usually break off the end with my thumb. Filing is probably more precise and leaves more flux around the electrode, but flipping with a heavy leather gloved thumb is quicker.

 

[Gary Fowler]

My old Forney welder was set at 160 amps using 1/8" rod.

The metal was a KK boom-pole and a 2x5" piece of 1/4" thick worn out scraper bar from a rear scraper blade.

I learned to weld in 9th grade using an old Forney welder. It buzzed so loud I probably should have had ear protection.
The problem with AC and 7018 is that the 7018 is a short arc rod meaning that to weld right, the rod tip needs to be practically in the weld puddle but AC welders require a long arc length to keep the rod from sticking and if you get too long it will arc out. I don't know what they do to make the 7018 AC but it must be something that they changed so that it will run while holding a longer arc. I burned a lot of regular DC 7018 rods using my Dads old Lincoln Tombstone welder. I had to restart a lot because the rod would just quit burning or stick but I managed to build 2 ea. 40 foot x 8foot trailers with it that were still in service 20 years later hauling cotton to the gin.

The best way to get the rod back to serviceable length when a long piece of the flux is broken off is just to long arc the bare rod and then flip off the melted metal just as you get to the flux covered portion. It does take a little practice to be able to start the bare wire to arcing thought.

 

[Big Barn]

I learned to weld in 9th grade using an old Forney welder. .

One year later than Gary, but same welder!

I still have it.

 

[bigtiller]

I learned to weld in 9th grade using an old Forney welder. It buzzed so loud I probably should have had ear protection.
The problem with AC and 7018 is that the 7018 is a short arc rod meaning that to weld right, the rod tip needs to be practically in the weld puddle but AC welders require a long arc length to keep the rod from sticking and if you get too long it will arc out. I don't know what they do to make the 7018 AC but it must be something that they changed so that it will run while holding a longer arc. I burned a lot of regular DC 7018 rods using my Dads old Lincoln Tombstone welder. I had to restart a lot because the rod would just quit burning or stick but I managed to build 2 ea. 40 foot x 8foot trailers with it that were still in service 20 years later hauling cotton to the gin.

The best way to get the rod back to serviceable length when a long piece of the flux is broken off is just to long arc the bare rod and then flip off the melted metal just as you get to the flux covered portion. It does take a little practice to be able to start the bare wire to arcing thought.

I did notice that and I thought I was screwing up so I kept trying to back it off the puddle only to have it sputter, so back in I would go.

I think I know why the area community college offered only a 2 year welding class.... that was in the 80's when jobs were hard to come by in grain farming parts of the country.