Fence Project. Advice Appreciated.

/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated. #1  

SmoothSippin

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2006
Messages
39
Tractor
Deere 2305 Deere 757
All,
I am starting my fencing project. The fence is to "hold back" two basset hounds :) . I layed it out last night and plan to use 4X4 treated posts. Wrap those in wire fencing (2 X 4 weld). Then add the rails (2X6) over the metal fencing.

First, do you all see any problems with the idea. (I am concerned about putting the rails over the metal fencing). Second, what type of wood should I use for the rails to make it economical?

Bascially, it is a 53 post, 440 foot fence. I plan to use my Lienbach PHD for this task. Any and all input would be appreciated.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated.
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Some other information. I plan to sink the post 2 - 3 feet and use a half bag of Quick crete in each hole.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated. #3  
I would put a top rail on the posts, then a bottom rail in between them, so that the rails are flush with the posts. Then I would staple the wire mesh on the inside face. This way you have a top and bottom rail to stretch and stabilize the wire. Putting the mesh on the inside helps keep the critters from chewing on the fence. You always want to make sure the bottom of the mesh is secured with a rail, otherwise the dogs will get themselves caught under the wire.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated.
  • Thread Starter
#4  
When you mention "flush with the posts", I am envisioning toe nailing this rail between the posts. Like say a 2 X 4 stratling inside the posts. Thanks for the advice.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated. #5  
yup, that's exactly what I mean.
I've spent the last few weekends working a fence line for some horses. Man, they are destructive beasts. Last weekend was under gate conduit. Next weekend I set up the controllers and run electric wire on the inside of the fence. That should keep these little buggers off the fence :)
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated. #6  
For my horses I have 4x4 treated posts with woven wire fencing (not the welded, those welds break easily). I have a treated 2x4 top rail. My top rail is nailed in right over the wire. Get your wire stretched as well as you can using a piece of 2x4 through an opening in the wire and against the post where you can get leverage. Then you can use staples to get it tighter by nailing those against the side of the post. Using cement to set those posts is a good idea so they won't move when you stretch the fencing. With dogs you will probably also need a bottom rail to keep them from getting underneath. Not sure about Bassetts but some dogs can climb so a diamond weave wire fence may be better than one with square or rectangular holes. Both my Dalmatians could jump a 4 foot fence and many years ago I ended up using a 6 foot fence to keep them contained.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated. #7  
Are your Bassets diggers or not?

If so make sure there is no room between the bottom of the wire and the ground otherwise they will dig quick when they catch a scent.

steve

BTW we have a 1/2 basset, 1/2 lab.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated.
  • Thread Starter
#8  
My oldest basset is not a digger. The new puppy...who knows? I was thinking of using a scarier of my box blade to make a little trench to sink the wire slightly in the ground.

Bassets do not climb. However who knows what new puppy the wife will bring home! Maybe I should go with chain link instead of the weld wire. I bet the costs..... I am putting in about 500 feet of 5 foot.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated. #9  
I recently built essentially the same fence to keep our dogs in, do a search for "New Fence" in the Projects forum for some photos I posted. I acutally put the rails up first and then stapled the wire to the outside of the fence. Both our dogs are diggers. I put the welded wire on the outside so I could bend the bottom at the ground to keep them from getting under- worked well in my situation. The problem using welded wire and then adding the rails is that you can't stretch the welded wire so it's easier to attatch to an all ready built frame.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated.
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks. I was checking out your fence prior to posting this thread. It looks great. How many feet did you wind up putting in? BTW, what do you have on top of your posts? Did you set in concrete or just tamp? And how's the weld wire holding up (rusting?).

Thanks !
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated. #11  
I put up about 450 feet of fence- did it over a period of about three weeks. I decided not to place the posts in concrete, the wire infill is not very heavy compared to a wood infill- and this was my first fence and if things went wrong I didn't want to dig out concrete. It's held just fine. No rust on the galvanized wire and the only place it broke is where I ran into it with the FEL while mowing :(. Post some pictures when you get yours going.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated. #12  
I have some fencing that is welded wire and it is rusty, so they do rust. You can stretch it too, you just have to be careful. I stretched as far as I could without breaking welds, then went back afterwards with my hammer to bend it close to the sides of the posts. Put in staples there to get it tight. If you need your fence done quickly I would set the posts in cement. If you have time to let them sit in the ground awhile before you stretch the fence you can live without the cement. I have also put gravel in the holes before backfilling with the dirt and that helps too.
 
/ Fence Project. Advice Appreciated. #13  
I would use 1x6 rough cut poplar or oak for the rails, that's what I build my horse fence with, and they hold up okay as long as you paint the fence after the lumber is well dried. Cost around here is .40 a board foot for poplar, little more for oak so it is fairly economical. Also - I would price 4-5" round posts versus the 4x4 squares, the rounds are more irregular, but also it's more wood in the ground. Where I am in Alabama, a 1/2 bag of quickqrete is no better than filling the holes with gravel or dirt. So I either put in more concrete, or just skip it. If you do concrete, put in extra at all of the corners, and if you have the energy the posts next to the corners as well. Your corners, and the first & last posts when you stretch your fence are the ones more likely to move. I would over due anchoring posts, lining them up, etc before stretching the wire. Nothing is more frustrating than a poor fence - I've installed way to many feet of bad fence that I've had to replace in short order. Also - I've had terrible luck with the welded wire that sells for .50 a foot at the big box or TSC. I've been happier with the woven field fence that is actually cheaper. It's a bigger grid though, so not sure if it would work as well for dog fencing.
 

Marketplace Items

(1) HD 24ft Free Standing Corral Panel (A65579)
(1) HD 24ft Free...
2016 Dodge Charger Sedan (A64557)
2016 Dodge Charger...
EZ-Steer Controller and EZ-Steer Motor (A65640)
EZ-Steer...
2013 Ford F-550 Altec AT37G 37ft Bucket Truck (A61573)
2013 Ford F-550...
100 Gallon Galvanized Water Tank (A65579)
100 Gallon...
New/Unused Quick Attach Pallet Forks (A65583)
New/Unused Quick...
 
Top