FEL, easy to attach!

[Volfandt]

Why can't you connect and disconnect the hoses while running?

The rear BH lines have constant pressure on them and have to be looped back together when the BH is removed or the fluid will dump under pressure all over the place.
With the FEL having so may double acting pistons it's also always under pressure, even with the spool in the neutral position.
Both implements need to have their pressure relieved before disconnection or they'll be nearly impossible to reconnect without inserting something into QD to manually relieve the pressure.

Why not just lift the front tires in the air with the FEL?

Theres no need to with the BX23.

When finish mowing, less weight = less compaction on the lawn = best cut, on the BX23 removing the BH & FEL lightens the tractor by 1000lbs while also makeing it more manuverable and less likely to do damage in tight places. Plus the ride is much better when it's lighter. The only time I mow with the FEL on is when I'm clearing a tall overgrown field. The only time I mow w/both the FEL & BH on is when I just need to knock down a small patch.

 

[teachdocs]

The rear BH lines have constant pressure on them and have to be looped back together when the BH is removed or the fluid will dump under pressure all over the place.
With the FEL having so may double acting pistons it's also always under pressure, even with the spool in the neutral position.
Both implements need to have their pressure relieved before disconnection or they'll be nearly impossible to reconnect without inserting something into QD to manually relieve the pressure.

Agree with BH comment. FEL is different: I disconnect while tractor running. No oil spill. No problems to reconnect later.

 

[Volfandt]

I disconnect while tractor running. No oil spill. No problems to reconnect later.

This is the 1st I've heard of someone doing this. Not saying you shouldn't, just the 1st time. How long have you been doing it this way? Do you reconnect with it running also?
I've had a couple occasions where the FEL pressureized while sitting and I attributed it too not bleeding down before disconnect because I've never had a problem since.

 

[teachdocs]

This is the 1st I've heard of someone doing this. Not saying you shouldn't, just the 1st time. How long have you been doing it this way? Do you reconnect with it running also?
I've had a couple occasions where the FEL pressureized while sitting and I attributed it too not bleeding down before disconnect because I've never had a problem since.

I disconnect while running all the time. Just did it yesterday. I usually reconnect with tractor turned off. It can be done while running, however.

If I ever get a "jammed" pressurized hose, I just move the joystick for the particular hose in question at the same time you connect the hose (only do this when tractor turned off). Most of the time it will just slip into place and alleviate the need to tap the center pin in the QD to relieve the pressure.

I think there are different types of QD that are specifically designed to be disconnected/connected under pressure. That's not really the case here since the FEL is at rest sitting flat on the ground.

The BH is different. I think it serves as a "return" line for the 3 PTH. It should be connected/disconnected with tractor off.

I am certainly no expert on hydraulic lines, but this is the way I have used hydraulics on tractors for years.

For the hydraulic experts out there: is this info correct and is it safe to follow these practices?

Thanks!

 

[JWE]

I think I can remove my 60 MMM in less than 10 minutes but I don't think I can reinstall it that fast. My biggest problem is reconnecting the PTO shaft. The collar on my shaft has a hair trigger. It releases with the slightest bump. It usually takes three or four tries to get the PTO connected.

The dollies that Tom described sounds like a good idea. I think I will buy a set.

John

 

[Tdog]

All, I'll echo what Tom says about the little 3-wheel dollies from Lowes. If you are removing the deck on a concrete floor, it is a dream to move around once the anti-scalp wheels are lowered into the dollies. I USED to dread dealing with the MMM. Now, it is as easy as the FEL.
One other trick I picked up from a previous TBN post - - move the PTO lever to the back PTO. That means the middle PTO can spin freely - - it's easier to spin than the MMM shaft. Also, when reinstalling the MMM, I use the BH stabilizers to raise the back end of the tractor so that I can slide under there & see what I'm doing. There's not much clearance, but it works for me.

Good luck.

Jack

 

[ozzie tractor]

sorry for sounding like a dope here, (we havent got the BX24 here yet, we let you guys find all the issues first, then import them). is the 24 like the BX2230 where the control valve is removed with the loader, if so you should not disconnect the 3 lines down low on the right hand side. if you do the pump will be subject to huge amounts of pressure because the oil has now where to go and there is no relief valve in the system. but this is only if it is like the 2230 loader.

 

[teachdocs]

sorry for sounding like a dope here, (we havent got the BX24 here yet, we let you guys find all the issues first, then import them). is the 24 like the BX2230 where the control valve is removed with the loader, if so you should not disconnect the 3 lines down low on the right hand side. if you do the pump will be subject to huge amounts of pressure because the oil has now where to go and there is no relief valve in the system. but this is only if it is like the 2230 loader.

Good point!
The BX23 valve remains on the tractor when removing the FEL.
There are 4 lines instead of 3.

The 3 hose setup you describe does need a return so cannot be done under pressure. (like the BH setup).

Thanks for the clarification on the important difference between the models.

 

[ozzie tractor]

Good point!
The BX23 valve remains on the tractor when removing the FEL.
There are 4 lines instead of 3.

The 3 hose setup you describe does need a return so cannot be done under pressure. (like the BH setup).

Thanks for the clarification on the important difference between the models.

thanks for that, i got a bit nervous there for a second, had visions of blown hydraulic pumps. . it is perfectly ok to disconnect the set up your refering to with the engine running, because there should be no oil flow to the rams. it just make it a bit harder to make shure that there is no pressure on the rams.
as a side note on a lot of larger tractors the loader hoses are removed with a coupler called (here any way) a multi-doc. it has all the hoses entering the 2 parts of it and they lock together, they can be coupled and un coupled under pressure, plus you dont get any oil leakage. excellent thing, but a bit big and expensive to be putting on a BX.

 

[Musclford]

On more than one thread here, I've lamented the seemingly unnecessary difficulty of removing and re-attaching a 60" MMM to my BX 2230. Same experience yesterday, when pulling it off for winter storage--most annoying facet: it is impossible to turn the left side (as you face the front of the tractor) anti-scalp wheel to the outward position because it hits the rear wheel, and then once you let it down, you end up trying to lift a 250 pound implement with one hand while threading the pin--it just seems assinine.

Anyway, onto the actual topic for this post: I was so pleasantly surprised by the ease of putting the FEL back on. The manual makes it seem much more difficult than it is by confusing language about which hydraulic hose goes to which; its as if the author of the manual didn't know Kubota has them all color coded. It was a lot of fun standing on the tractor using fine movements of the FEL to let it do all the work getting the arms in place to attach to the tractor. I hadn't put it on myself before (dealer watched as he instructed its removal and then re-attachment at the time of delivery and then I took it off when summer began to use the Mower).

The mower took a good 25 minutes to remove (after giving up on the anti-scalp wheel, jarring the front link out of its bracket, and then "gerrymandering" the mower to get out from under the tractor). The FEL took all of about 10 minutes, and that's with reading the manual to make sure I was doing it right. Next year, I plan to use the FEL more often, now that I know how easy it is to remove and re-attach. I am very impressed with its design. Now, if Kubota would only use the same design goals with its MMM.

They should pay / copy simplicity for their design.. It is absolutely the best I've ever seen or used... My old yardman was a joke, and I could never get it readjusted correctly... The Simplicity, pull one pin. Grab the built in belt tension rod and slip off the belt, go to the front and with one hand squeeze a handle and wala, the deck is off. Turn the wheels to the left, and pull the deck out starting at the back. Furhermore, the deck had provisions to sit up vertically so I could sharpen/do maintenance... It was "Simply" the best.

Haven't tackled my bx2350 60"MMM yet, but you got me worried.....

 

[Volfandt]

Tried 2 suggestions I've seen mentioned here on this site and others and although they work for others, I'll just have to stick to my tried and true....

Whilst mulching up the remnants of the last of the Ashes & Dogwoods leaves in the front yard, I decided to leave the FEL on as I was going to use it to turn the compost pile in the back 40 and halfway through I had had enough and dismounted it.
The negatives I encountered where a heavier less nimble front end, limited to NO access to areas I normally had very easy access to, slower operating time as I had to be VERY aware where the FEL was in relation to the various obstacles strewn about the front and the very visable imprint that was being left on the damp grass by the front bar tires!
Once the FEL was dismounted the BX23 corrected all those negatives and returned to the fine mulcher/mower it configures too when lightened of the TLB pkg! When the BX is sans all that additional weight and obstructions and coupled with those gatorblades I just adapted to it, it is the BEST mower I've owned!!!!
I have mowed the back open field w/the FEL mounted but only when it was 4' high. I definitely prefer to mow sans the FEL & BH.....

I also tried to disconnect the FEL lines whilst running at the lowest idle setting and after several attempts to try to release the QD couplings, I decided that the resistance I was encountering was enough to discourage going on through with it. The top QD just wasn't cooperating so I figured if'n I forced the issue I'd be greeted w/some over spray so I just shut down, bled the pressure off, easily disconnected the lines and was back on my merry way in a minute or so.

I guess what works for some just ain't meant for me, you just can't teach an old dog all the new tricks .......

re. R&R'ing the MMM on a BX. Although the BX excells as a finish mower, it ain't a lawn & garden tractor, it's a sub compact tractor that'll do alot more than an L&G machine ever will! Theres no comparison when compareing the capabilities of these machines and that includes their implements.
While it's not the easiest implement to R&R, it's not the hardest either.
I dunno, it's really not that bad folks, but then again I enjoy working and wrenching machinery........

Volfandt

 

[rdsaustintx]

Having R&R'd my MMM twice this week, here's my drill for removal:

Keep the motor running at first.

1. Raise the deck and set mower limit knob for a low setting.

2. Lower the deck halfway and spin the scalp wheels (skip if you have dollies).

3. Lower the deck to ground, unlatch and remove the front mount bracket.

4. Pull the link pins and raise linkage to top. Set the limit knob to "top" (and forget about it).

Shut tractor off if you want now.

5. Pull back the PTO shaft collar (it locks) and slip it off.

6. Slide the deck out.

3-4 minutes, tops.

Install is the opposite, although I haven't tried the rear PTO select trick. I just pull the mower belt and ease the collar on. I think this is tough for some people and easy for others. You WILL get dirty hands on this step.

I find any variance from this basic procedure gets me tangled-up. The link pins are tight with the front bracket on, turning the limit knob with the linkage down can jam it, etc.

Don't be afraid, it's a cinch after a few tries and you'll be posting your own tricks.

Some other suggestions: Blow the deck with compressed air out on the lawn before removing, saves sweeping the garage later. Get into the habit of pumping 4-5 squirts into the spindle zerks every time you remount.

Happy trails,

Russell in Texas

 

[simonmeridew]

Along that line, when I bought my L4400 my wife said keep the 8N(rear mount mower) for mowing, and free up the Kubota for other jobs that might not get done if I had to remove the mower every time I needed it. I gotta say that 2 Kubotas might be over the top though.
simonmeridew