Snow FEL Bucket Cutting Edge Lesson's Learned

[Shield Arc]

Makes one wonder if John Deere used an AR plate for the cutting edge.
Me personally I'd do just as k0ua suggest! I'd pad weld it up with 7018. Back stepping and skipping around so as not to warp the cutting edge. Then hard face the cutting edge, and the bottom of the cutting edge with a pattern like this bucket was done.

 

[Shield Arc]

I just replaced a cutting edge last year for a buddy of mines brother-n-law's FEL. A lot of work, with pre-heat and cool down. First you have to scarf, or grind out all the original welds. To me it's a lot quicker to pad weld, and hard face.
Here is the thread I did about that project.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/277728-bucket-extension-project.html?highlight=

 

[Rustyiron]

Urbandeere, you're cutting edge looks like you're still in the front bevel, far from "destroyed". I'd say get another year out of it (at least) just don't wear it into the end panel of the bucket. Chances are that this past winter for you in n. VA was an oddity. When the time comes, get a pre drilled cutting edge that will accept a b.o.c.e. (bolt on cutting edge). These parts should be available at a Bobcat or any decent skid steer dealer. I suggest a SS dealer as they will likely have a width that suits your machine. I'd guess that each edge should be about 200-250 + the bolts. Take it all to a local welder, get an estimate if you like. With this set up the boce is reversible and an easy job to do & eventual replacement is just bolts. I you allready have a tooth bar, it may not work with this set up.

 

[mechanic327]

I would look at the controll valve. There is no way float is working for an edge to look like that.

 

[jcummins]

For winter snow plowing, I slotted a pipe and put over the edge....got the idea from this forum. Worked pretty good.

 

[4310]

Is that a metal pipe?

I put an ABS (if I remember right, it was black plastic) pipe on the front bucket and rear blade this past winter. I loved how it worked but they both broke after a couple uses.

If I can slot a metal pipe (somehow) and beat it on the bucket and blade with a hammer like I did the plastic I will go that route.

....and to add something so I can't be blamed for hijacking.
My drive is about 200'. Half concrete, half gravel. My bucket was brand new and it shows some wear after this winter. Not as bad as the OP's but I notice it.

 

[jcummins]

My drive is 1/2 blacktop 1/2 gravel and a half mile long. If I lived further north I'd want a blade...but given the number of snows we get...the pipe works fairly well.

Tabs that I hadn't welded on the bar not in the pic. You can see the holes in bottom of bucket. I bought tractor used and the holes were already there so I used....otherwise I would have drilled the side of the bucket and install like a toothbar.

 

[4310]

Okay I see two holes now.

So you welded two tabs to the pipe and put a bolt through the tabs and the holes in the bucket?

How did you slot the pipe?

 

[k0ua]

Many ways to slot the pipe, but one cheap way would be to snap a chalk line on it for a guide, then turn your 4 1/2 inch angle grinder on edge and follow the line. Of course if you had a mill you could use that.. but a harbor freight angle grinder for a few bucks, and some disks would work. Be sure to wear you eye protection.

 

[rredhawkk]

I read your post with interest, I did the snow removal up north from you in North East Pa. with my bucket on my 1025 R and it did a great job. I have a manual angle blade to adapt to my bucket when time allows . You didn't say how long your drive is but from the wear on the blade it must be considerable, my blade has almost no wear. Take KOUA's advise and just weld on the edges to build it up then grind to a reasonable likeness, I doubt I would get involved buying, selling, trading blades or buckets. Then again that's my honest opinion, my thinking is I'm going to buy a welder soon for other projects and that's going to come in handy with my tractor as well. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

 

[rredhawkk]

JCummins has a good idea as well, piece of pipe slotted great idea. I would imagine it stops the blade from digging in and gouging your asphalt. Course if your drive is gravel my thinking is that a box blade to level and fill in the grooves first would be a good thing . I does pay to consult the forums for good ideas.

 

[dirt ditch]

THE GOOD - Winter this year provided near weekly snow falls on the east coast so I had ample time to test out the snow moving capability of the 61 bucket (BW14146) on a 200CX loader mounted to the 2520 tractor. Let's just say this combination worked flawlessly on moderately steep terrain and handled up to 18 of snow with aplomb. Using only float mode, ice could be removed simply by tipping the bucket down to exert additional cutting force on the long asphalt driveway. I was extremely happy with the performance of the loader and tractor as it quickly dispatched the white snowy mess.

THE BAD - Attached are photos of the bucket's cutting edge after only one season of use since new. Basically the cutting edge is destroyed, since it's no longer straight along the front edge. Nearly ｾ inch is worn off at the bucket outside edges. Attachments, such a tooth bars, can no longer be affixed with a non-linear cutting edge. I was very surprised about the amount of wear on the cutting edge after only one winter season's use. Not happy.

THE UGLY I contacted my local John Deere dealer to inquire about the cost to replace the welded on bucket cutting edge. The estimate was about $600 parts and labor, and the bucket would have a "repaired" look to it when finished. The dealer provided the cost of a new bucket at just a shade over $800. Assuming worst case scenario, aka a heavy snow falls each year; I'll be spending $600 to $825 to move snow annually. There has to be a better way.

I'm evaluating different options before the next winter season. Below are a few options under consideration.

• Repair bucket with a factory cutting edge and install a wear bar for snow removal. I believe W.R. Long manufactures a wear bar. $600 plus $300 = $900
• Remove the damaged cutting edge and replace with a removable cutting edge that can be changed when worn. Cost and availability unknown.
• Purchase a new bucket and wear bar for snow removal. Sell damaged bucket for few hundred $. $825 plus $300 = $1,125 (less proceeds from old bucket sale).
• Purchase a new bucket. Sell damaged bucket for a few hundred $. Move to a snow free State currently under consideration. $825 (less proceeds from old bucket sale).
• Do nothing. Forget about installing a tooth bar or wear bar with the bucket and continue to use it to remove snow on asphalt as usual. When the cutting edge wears back to near the wear plates, maybe 1 to 2 years more of snow removal, then make a decision to repair cutting edge or replace bucket.

If anyone on this board has other recommendations or constructive comments, I'd love the hear them. :anyone:

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A bolt on cutting edge will give you twice the area for wear. You have enough metal there to drill holes for one.
If you do buy a new bucket get the JD 61" Heavy Duty Bucket. It is pre-drilled for the bolt on cutting edge.
Also try to keep the cutting edge flat when using the loader on hard surfaces so the wear is even across the entire width of the bottom of the edge, not just out on the point.

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[CDS32]

In Northern NJ we had similiar conditions this year with snow. From my past experience in earthworking I always used bolt on wear bars/cutting edges. I had a 4010 with 410 FEL I bought used. I had similiar wear on the bucket when I got it. I removed the bucket, turned upside down and drilled the bucket to install a 1/2 inch thick cutting edge from my local bucket supplier. They have all different sizes and will custom punch anything you need. The new edge was on the tractor for 6 years and showed little wear at all. Its a much better hardened steel designed for earthwork and scraping the ground. The fact that I was able to drill the cutting edge on the bucket ,with a magnetic drill of course, told me the OEM bucket was of softer steel than I was used to in excavating equipment. My new 3320 has the H/D bucket with a bolt on edge and after 389 hours of use its time to turn it around. If you can find some one to help you with a bolt on edge, I think you will be happy with the extra strength and wear you will get out of it. Just my :2cents:

 

[oldballs]

What is a "magnetic drill", if you please?

 

[k0ua]

What is a "magnetic drill", if you please?

If you will enter the words magnetic drill into google, and then click on the images button you will see several hundred of them..

But in a nutshell, a magnetic drill is a miniature drill press with a magnetic base used to stick on and drill thick steel. It often includes some form of lubrication/cooling also.

 

[jcummins]

I've read some on this forum that did this, used a torch to slot the pipe. I didn't have one, and asked a friend who did to slot it. He did...but he did not use a torch. He used a twin-bladed counter rotating saw. Thinking of buying one of those.

I've used this one season. Based upon wear on the pipe, thinking it will last several years. On blacktop, it works quite good. On the gravel, I tip the bucket up just slightly. It does help digging into the gravel, but you still have to be careful.

 

[HEC]

I use the slotted pipe on mine when the ground isn't quite frozen yet and it works very good , especially on grass areas as it doesn't tear up the grass . I have a friend who uses one on his plow truck also . The twin bladed saw sounds like a great idea , thanks for that info .

 

[daybreak1998]

THE BAD - Attached are photos of the bucket's cutting edge after only one season of use since new. Basically the cutting edge is destroyed, since it's no longer straight along the front edge. Nearly ｾ inch is worn off at the bucket outside edges. Attachments, such a tooth bars, can no longer be affixed with a non-linear cutting edge. I was very surprised about the amount of wear on the cutting edge after only one winter season's use. Not happy.

THE UGLY I contacted my local John Deere dealer to inquire about the cost to replace the welded on bucket cutting edge. The estimate was about $600 parts and labor, and the bucket would have a "repaired" look to it when finished. The dealer provided the cost of a new bucket at just a shade over $800. Assuming worst case scenario, aka a heavy snow falls each year; I'll be spending $600 to $825 to move snow annually. There has to be a better way.

I'm evaluating different options before the next winter season. Below are a few options under consideration.

• Repair bucket with a factory cutting edge and install a wear bar for snow removal. I believe W.R. Long manufactures a wear bar. $600 plus $300 = $900
  
• Remove the damaged cutting edge and replace with a removable cutting edge that can be changed when worn. Cost and availability unknown.
  
• Purchase a new bucket and wear bar for snow removal. Sell damaged bucket for few hundred $. $825 plus $300 = $1,125 (less proceeds from old bucket sale).
  
• Purchase a new bucket. Sell damaged bucket for a few hundred $. Move to a snow free State currently under consideration. $825 (less proceeds from old bucket sale).
  
• Do nothing. Forget about installing a tooth bar or wear bar with the bucket and continue to use it to remove snow on asphalt as usual. When the cutting edge wears back to near the wear plates, maybe 1 to 2 years more of snow removal, then make a decision to repair cutting edge or replace bucket.

If anyone on this board has other recommendations or constructive comments, I'd love the hear them. :anyone:

Howdy,
Buckets are made to work mostly with dirt. Anytime you will use something across a hard surface, you will need a hardened replaceable edge. Snow plow blade's? You will see they all have a flippable lower hardened edge. Wears down on one side, flip it, wear down the other side... then replace it.

Because of what has already happened, you will want to see if there is enough edge there for a hardened edge can be bolted on.

 

[oldballs]

If you will enter the words magnetic drill into google, and then click on the images button you will see several hundred of them..

But in a nutshell, a magnetic drill is a miniature drill press with a magnetic base used to stick on and drill thick steel. It often includes some form of lubrication/cooling also.

Thanks, I forget about the Goggle thingy.........Golly, no wonder I don't have one.....only $500 to $2000 bucks to own one. I just bought a Milwaukee Sawsall for $120 bucks and had to think about that for a month before getting it. Thanks again.

BTW, I've done two winters of snow pushing on concrete and gravel doing mine and four neighbors and never had that kinda wear on my edge....just saying.

 

[jgayman]

A bolt on cutting edge will give you twice the area for wear. You have enough metal there to drill holes for one.
If you do buy a new bucket get the JD 61" Heavy Duty Bucket. It is pre-drilled for the bolt on cutting edge.
Also try to keep the cutting edge flat when using the loader on hard surfaces so the wear is even across the entire width of the bottom of the edge, not just out on the point.

JD only lists the 61" HD bucket as being compatible with the 300CX and 400CX loaders, probably because of the weight. Since he already has a 61" bucket he could probably buy the replacement cutting edge, drill his own holes, and mount it up to his existing bucket.