Farmtrac 25H Manual and parts source

[HMC710]

Hey All, just picked up a 2021 Farmtrac 25H that needs some TLC. I'm looking for a manual and parts source so I can get all filters changed. I sent an email to info@farmtracus.com and have not heard back yet. Tractor is a 2021 with under 200 hours, but looks a bit abused / overworked. First thing I noticed is hydraulics get very hot so looking for the manual / schematic to trace that down. It has the 3000 loader and it operates fine. The rear 3 point has issues lifting. It was way low on hyd oil so I'm hoping there is some air in the system. The pump and engine sound OK. It does seem to be way down on power compared with my girls Kubota B, even in low range. Again, hoping some new filters will help there. Tractor had some radiator damage so 3 tubes have been brazed closed and it does get hot very quick. There is no shroud around the radiator / fan so I'm wondering if that was removed to fix the radiator.
The differential lock lever doesn't seem to be spring loaded so it just sets in the down position. 4x4 does work.
Going through cleaning and lubing things up so hopefully these other issues can be addressed and put this thing to work.
All comments appreciated!
H

 

[ptsg]

Not sure if it's of any help to you or not but Escorts Limited, the manufacturer of the Farmtrac tractors is now owned by Kubota, making it Kubota Escorts Limited. https://www.escortskubota.com/

Here is a Farmtrac FT26 under Kubota name.

 

[HMC710]

Interesting, thx. Hopefully that will ensure parts n service options are available.
H

 

[ptsg]

If you search by "Farmtrac FT26 pdf", you'll find various manuals and parts catalogues. Albeit, those are mostly for the 9x3 transmission.

I imagine the difference between the FT25 and FT26 is mostly due to US spec vs EU spec, with different lights and what not.

 

[HMC710]

I'll give that a try, thx!
H

 

[HMC710]

Farmtrac FT26 was a brocure with general info. Ran the tractor today for a bit with rototiller to see how quick it would get hot. Made a few laps and temp got to the red so stopped tilling and let tractor idle and temps came back down.

Pulled tiller off the back to see if 3pt would lift with no load on it and the arms move manually up and down but when the lever is put in the up position there is little to no movement up on the arms. Ran idle speed up to 1500 and started to get slow movement up on 3pt arms. I can manually lift the arms up and back down.

There are two needle valves under driver seat. one directly under the seat is the 3pt arms down flow control from what I can tell.

The flow control towards the 3pt lift control appears to be plumbed into the rear remotes. I'm guessing that is pump flow control like on my girls Kubota? Playing with both valves open to close did not help the 3pt at all.

The loader operation is wide open and moves freely. However, it won't lift a sack of wet cement. Tried loading some scrap wood with it today and it wouldn't pick up the pile. Backed up and started loading boards on by hand and would have grandson check operation every now and then and I'm guessing 200 lbs max lift on the loader.

The 3pt will slowly raise, so to me that means a clog / valve adj issue, or the cylinder seals / pump is bypassing real bad. Something is not right.... especially with no power at the front end loader. For a 2000lb tractor, I was hoping for a 1000 lb loader capacity. From what I can tell, the 3 point is good for 1500 lbs from the info I've found so far. The sticker on the loader says 250kg capacity which is just over 500 lbs...... Thats less than a BX Kubota which I crossed off my list because it was too small.

Checked out ebay for manuals / parts and looks like things start at the larger tractors, 35, 45 and up.

Will double check filters on the Farmtrac to see if any part numbers show up that I can use to get new filters.

And the search continues.....

H

 

[ptsg]

That's definitely not right and there is something definitely wrong with both the cooling system and the hydraulic system.

For the coolant issue, it might be worth it pulling the radiator out and give it a good deep cleaning on the fins. A lot of pin will let them cake with dust and what not, then wash it with water, which will only turn that dust into mud that will dry and block all the fins.

Another thing to check, is if there is a thermostat in there. For some reasons, people just straight to remove it when they have cooling issues instead of fixing the actual issues.

That engine is a super common Mitsubishi engine, S3L if I'm not mistaken (confirm with the sticker on the valve cover), so parts for the engine should be fairly easy to find.

For the hydraulic system, that might take a bit more to troubleshoot. I believe there is an inline filter or screen in the suction side of the pumps in this tractor. Given how this tractor had a rough life before, I would pull that out, inspect and clean or replace. This is a good point to start.

The typical hydraulic circuit for these tractors is as follows: Pump > loader valve > remotes > 3 pt hitch.

From what I've found, the loader has 620lbs lifting capacity at max height with the bucket. The arms are fairly long, hence the relatively low lifting capacity compared to other tractors but will lift higher. Personally, still think it's plenty for a tractor this size.

 

[HMC710]

Thanks pt, appreciate the comments. You are correct on that loader, it get way up there! I'l see if there are any markings on the filters for cross referencing on the system. I printed out a generic hydraulic circuit, been a while since I've worked on a tractor....

The loader seems to have a lot of flow as its control valve is very touchy. I'll start tracing lines and see what I can map out. Its generating a lot of heat somewhere.

I thought about the thermostat being removed given the nature of the "repairs" made to the tractor... I'll track that down as well. Hopefully its a std GM compatible unit

H

 

[HMC710]

Looking through various hydraulic schematics, loader valves, etc. Going to map things out tomorrow and see how the plumbing looks. It acts like the 3 pt is plumbed after the loader valve and the PRV is set way too low. Hopefully something stoopid......
Thanks everyone!
H

 

[HMC710]

Some success! Mapped things out today as best I could. Hyd filter was loose and leaking, so tightened that.
Pump is mounted on the engine with front pump looks like going to power steering and rear pump goes to loader valve. Valve is Bucher Hydraulics and looks like they have a store relatively close by. Valve casting not stamped / cast with port ID very well. Looks like open center returns to "tank" at the bottom of the transmission. Suction filter is also connected to the bottom of the transmission. Having never cleaned one on a tractor, will it drain the oil out of the trans if I pull that apart to clean it?

Rear pump goes to inlet on loader valve, center out to tank, HPC (remote power?) goes to rear aux valve input P. Rear aux T goes to tank and C (power out) goes to 3 point.

So 3 point is last in line and acts like its getting no flow.

Rear aux valve has a PRV or bypass valve on it. It was screwed all the way down. Opened it up and viola! 3 point works.

I'll shoot an email to Bacher with valve part numbers and see if I can get schematics.

I would think I can hook up a pressure gauge to the rear aux A or B and check line pressure, correct?

Cleaned off hyd filter and no part numbers....

Didnt fully get hyd cooler and 3pt flow valves into sketch yet, so will continue to work on that.

Cheers,

H

 

[ptsg]

Good news.

Yes, you may need to drain the transmission to clean the suction filter.

I'm not seeing how the PRV would affect the flow to the 3 pt but I would definitely check the pressure with a pressure gauge if you had to adjust it. Not sure what the system pressure is on this tractor though.

I wonder if the remotes have a detent feature and the lever was stuck in detent, which would prevent the 3pt from working properly.

I think I have a lead on some filter numbers from Mann Filters but will need to investigate further. You should then be able to cross them to something more available on your side.

 

[HMC710]

I don't know if its an adjustable prv or flow control. Hopefully I'll get a response from Bucher.

No luck on a manual yet and no response from Farmtracus.com

H

 

[ptsg]

I came across these filter numbers. These are all Mann filter numbers that should be easily crossed to other manufacturers, specially to WIX, since they bought them.

Engine oil filter: W 610/3
Fuel filter: WK 842
Hydraulic Filter: W 811/1
Air filter: SA 16074

Since there is an hydraulic filter on the suction side, I don't think they run a strainer like other tractors but could be wrong though.

​

 

[HMC710]

Thanks ptsg! I'll check them out and see if they look similar to existing. There is definitely a suction filter with label / instructions on cleaning schedule, I'll snap a pic next trip out.

 

[ptsg]

In that case, definitely spend the time to pull it out and check.

 

[CoyPatton]

Farmtrac FT26 was a brocure with general info. Ran the tractor today for a bit with rototiller to see how quick it would get hot. Made a few laps and temp got to the red so stopped tilling and let tractor idle and temps came back down.

Pulled tiller off the back to see if 3pt would lift with no load on it and the arms move manually up and down but when the lever is put in the up position there is little to no movement up on the arms. Ran idle speed up to 1500 and started to get slow movement up on 3pt arms. I can manually lift the arms up and back down.

There are two needle valves under driver seat. one directly under the seat is the 3pt arms down flow control from what I can tell.

The flow control towards the 3pt lift control appears to be plumbed into the rear remotes. I'm guessing that is pump flow control like on my girls Kubota? Playing with both valves open to close did not help the 3pt at all.

The loader operation is wide open and moves freely. However, it won't lift a sack of wet cement. Tried loading some scrap wood with it today and it wouldn't pick up the pile. Backed up and started loading boards on by hand and would have grandson check operation every now and then and I'm guessing 200 lbs max lift on the loader.

The 3pt will slowly raise, so to me that means a clog / valve adj issue, or the cylinder seals / pump is bypassing real bad. Something is not right.... especially with no power at the front end loader. For a 2000lb tractor, I was hoping for a 1000 lb loader capacity. From what I can tell, the 3 point is good for 1500 lbs from the info I've found so far. The sticker on the loader says 250kg capacity which is just over 500 lbs...... Thats less than a BX Kubota which I crossed off my list because it was too small.

Checked out ebay for manuals / parts and looks like things start at the larger tractors, 35, 45 and up.

Will double check filters on the Farmtrac to see if any part numbers show up that I can use to get new filters.

And the search continues.....

H

Most tractors have a flow control valve that controls the speed the 3PH moves by regulating fluid flow. Typically these valves are a turn knob located under the seat.

 

[HMC710]

Hey Coy, yes there are two flow valves under the seat. One directly under the seat is 3pt down flow control. The other to the right is yet TBD.... on a kubota its a flow control valve (as I was told), but don't know if that is a global flow or 3pt flow. On my Farmtrac, pump output goes to the loader, then rear aux, then 3pt, so I'll play with that valve today when we get to the farm.
Thx,
H

 

[CoyPatton]

Hey Coy, yes there are two flow valves under the seat. One directly under the seat is 3pt down flow control. The other to the right is yet TBD.... on a kubota its a flow control valve (as I was told), but don't know if that is a global flow or 3pt flow. On my Farmtrac, pump output goes to the loader, then rear aux, then 3pt, so I'll play with that valve today when we get to the farm.
Thx,
H

That’s different. Typically 1 valve controls the flow for 3PH up and down. Also there is glow when 3PH goes down, but no pressure just gravity affected by weight of whatever is mounted. Pressure flow typically is up only at least on compact tractors. However, to best of my memory I have never touched a Farmtrac tractor.

 

[ptsg]

Hey Coy, yes there are two flow valves under the seat. One directly under the seat is 3pt down flow control. The other to the right is yet TBD.... on a kubota its a flow control valve (as I was told), but don't know if that is a global flow or 3pt flow. On my Farmtrac, pump output goes to the loader, then rear aux, then 3pt, so I'll play with that valve today when we get to the farm.
Thx,
H

This tractor uses a MITA 3 pt hitch system, which is actually a good brand.

With this system, you get two knobs that can be adjusted. One is the flow control valve, to set how fast or slow you want the 3 pt to drop, just like most tractors.


To my understanding, the other knob is a sensitivity adjustment and from what I gather, it adjusts the sensitivity that the 3 pt reacts to moving the control lever. So I supposed if it got turned all the way to one side, the 3 pt would really react much, which I assume it was your case.

 

[HMC710]

Still need a manual and now an electrical schematic....

Hey All, just an update on my FarmTrac 25H. 3pt works good and actually there is an AB valve on the Rear Aux and you flip it down, the 3pt works and lift it up, it feeds the Aux. Made up a pressure gauge and hyd pressure is 2500 psi at the rear aux port. I thought I read somewhere that normal tractor hyd psi is around 1500 psi, but I'm no expert.

With 2500 psi, the front loader should have a bit more capacity I would think. Trying to load up some old lawn mower carcasses and had trouble lifter some of them and I doubt they were in the 500 lb range. Played around with the joy stick and if I hit the tilt back on the forks sometimes the lift cylinders would get some flow and raise up. I need to reach out to the hyd company that supplied that and ask some questions.

The glow plug relay is not working and PO had them hot wired to a PB on the joystick. Wire connectors and PB were both bad so replaced them. Pulled the dash to look at the wiring and there are some wires loose back there. Looks like some for the electric PTO clutch and some missing ? for the glow plug relay. Now along with a manual, I need an electrical schematic.

Went to start it the other day to unload the new used coal stove and it wouldn't crank over. Now what???. Got out the meter to trouble shoot and started checking for voltage on starter solenoid, hit the key and it cranked over. This isn't the first time thats happened so maybe its time for a new starter switch. I see they list them on ebay that look similar so I guess I'll take a chance and drop $40 on one.

Any suggestions on PTO clutch wiring would be appreciated. And speaking of PTO, when I pulled the rototiller off to put on the box blade. The drive shaft appeared to be installed "backwards". The locking pin on the yoke was on the roto tiller side. There is not locking pin on the PTO side and I cant get the drive shaft off.

Is this something new that I"m not aware of? I had to separate the two halves to get the rototiller off and now I've got half a drive shaft hanging from the PTO. Not a safe situation.

Thanks, H