Farm Pro 2420 Maintenence

[mikeridge]

Greetings,

I posted about a farm pro 2420 that was on my property when I bought it and wasn't sure what to do. Hadn't been started in a long time and I don't know about diesels. Long story short, with the help of my father and brother in law we were able to successfully jumped the tractor and get it started and was running fine.

Now I will be draining all of the fluids including the oil, transmission fluid, and diesel with new. I went to my nearest NAPA store and got a new battery, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter.

Does anyone else have any suggestions on what I should do to keep this tractor running and maintaining it well?

Also when I got home from Napa with the new battery I tried to jump the tractor with it but it wouldn't turn over. The battery I got from Napa is the 7237 commercial battery with 950 cca. The tractor would not turn over with the new battery any thoughts on this?

Any help and suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Mike

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Definitely change the engine oil. Other than that, I wouldn't bother with the other fluids as long as they are full and look clean. If they are low or seem contaminated, change them. When you change the engine oil be sure to change the fuel pump oil too. These tractors are not well weather-proofed and water can get in the fluids if they are left out. The oils will look milky if that happens, definitely change them in that case.

Most likely cause of the starter not turning over is a poor ground. Second most likely is a poor battery cable. When you jumped it before did you just put jumper cables on the positive terminal and on ground, and turn the key? If that worked it means your starter is fine, as is your key switch and clutch switch, three common culprits. The reason that worked and your battery doesn't is that you bypassed the cables, which are probably loose or dirty.

The best way to keep this tractor running is to post here frequently.

 

[mikeridge]

Thanks for replying.

I'll check the other fluids just to be safe and change if needed.

As far as starting it, we used two trucks and two jumper cables to start it. My 2013 Sierra wouldn't start it just by it self so we hooked up two trucks with jumper cables. It then started right up. I bought the new battery, one that I read is the replacement for it and it acted as if it didn't have enough juice to fire for it to turn over.

Mike

 

[Harry in Ky]

If it takes THAT much battery to get it to crank, it's most likely cables/connections or the starter itself. The battery you described should be plenty strong for that size tractor.

 

[Ricks284]

^ +1. I have the same size battery (950 CCA) and it is plenty strong for that tractor. Check your ground connection to the frame - the factory is notorious for leaving a thick layer of paint under that ring terminal. Also, the factory cables corrode internally after a few years - the ends may look okay, but the guts of the cables turn to dust.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

If it takes THAT much battery to get it to crank, it's most likely cables/connections or the starter itself. The battery you described should be plenty strong for that size tractor.

So what's puzzling to me is the part about two batteries working. In an electrical circuit, power is equal to voltage squared divided by resistance. The more resistance you have, the less power you get. This is why faulty cables are a problem, too much resistance means you can't get enough power. Adding another battery in parallel -- red to red, black to black --
doesn't increase the voltage, so if the resistance stays the same the power stays the same.

If they are hooked up in series -- red to black -- then you get 24 volts, and with the same resistance you'll get four times the power. Which would probably result in fuses popping all over the place when you turned the key on.

The thing about high resistance is it's often intermittent -- moving a cable around improves the connection, it's like the old TV's with rabbit ears. Until there is evidence to the contrary I'm going to hypothesize that having two batteries wasn't what made it start, it was moving the cables around.

 

[Bob Rooks]

^ I absolutely agree, except for the popping of fuses.

 

[tucker2]

Firts you need to see which 2420 you have, most were 2 cylinder, at the end of their run they went to 3 cylinder. They were rebranded Jinma 200 tractors, the jinma manual shows both type engines. I can email you a PDF copy of the manual if you need it, I got one online for free.

 

[Jhenley]

Firts you need to see which 2420 you have, most were 2 cylinder, at the end of their run they went to 3 cylinder. They were rebranded Jinma 200 tractors, the jinma manual shows both type engines. I can email you a PDF copy of the manual if you need it, I got one online for free.

I have a FarmPro 2420 380 Series 2004, my problem is I never receive a manual when I bought this tractor I don’t know where to check the hydraulic fluid or drain the hydraulic fluid or check the transmission fluid. If you could help me with this, it will be appreciated. If you could email me a copy of the manual it will be appreciated if you have one. Thanks,

 

[clanmicd]

Jhenley,
Your HF dipstick is behind the seat on top of the lift arm housing between the bases of the lift arms. Mine is a square pipe plug and has a little u-shaped breather tube soldered in it. Tranny dipstick is on top of tranny and is also a square pipe plug. My 2420 is late 2003 with TY290X 2 cylinder diesel that I bought new in 2004.
BTW, make sure to check the oil in the injector pump before you operate it. Change the oil in the injector pump every time you do an engine oil change. I use engine oil and to fill it to the proper level, add oil until it overflows from the 1/4" overflow tube held on by a slotted bolt head on the side of the IP. This overflow tube/slotted bolt head will be behind the primer pump plunger on the side of the injector pump.