expoxy release agent

[bjr]

The term "release agent" is one I can't say where I heard it. The local Loctite dealer doesn't have anything on his shelfs either and hadn't heard of anything. What I want to do is build up a hub on my tiller on the nondrive end maybe 1/16 to 1/8 inch diameter on the hub where the bearing goes. The bearing is maybe 2-9/16 in. OD. The epoxy is the stuff that comes in two adjoining tubes used for cement repair. I don't remember brand specifics. I want the bearing to be installed and then be able to be removed when needed, thus the release agent. Is there any such thing? Otherwise I'll just find a tin can and shim it to take up the space. bjr

 

[Ford850]

I've used a release agent from Brownells gunsmith supplies. I use it when I glass bed an action to the stock. It is a very thin release agent so it makes for a very snug fit when the project is complete. I've heard of paste wax and silicone pastes or oils used as release agents too.

 

[jinman]

I googled "epoxy mold release" and got lots of hits. I used to work in the Dept. of Geosciences at UTD. We created many epoxy castings of rock samples that would be sliced, polished, and analyzed using an electron microprobe. The mold release we used was in an aerosol can and contained a parafin base, I believe.

 

[swines]

Hornady One Shot case lube or Synair Synlube 1000 release agent
http://www.claypeople.net/images/ClayPeople45-49.pdf
- page 51

 

[mjfox6]

You can get release agents and mold waxes here:
Wedges, Mold Releases and Clips - Fibre Glast Developments

 

[srjones]

I don't mean to hijack this topic, but I have a slightly different problem and hopefully the same eyes might have a solution.

I used some epoxy to set an anchor bolt into drilled concrete hole. The epoxy was either bad or I or I didn't get the mix right and it's never hardened (and I don't think it ever will).

Any suggestions for getting the it out of the hole and starting over? The hole is 3/4" x 5"

Thanks,
-srj

 

[tommu56]

I don't mean to hijack this topic, but I have a slightly different problem and hopefully the same eyes might have a solution.

I used some epoxy to set an anchor bolt into drilled concrete hole. The epoxy was either bad or I or I didn't get the mix right and it's never hardened (and I don't think it ever will).

Any suggestions for getting the it out of the hole and starting over? The hole is 3/4" x 5"

Thanks, -srj

Put a hole just a little bigger than bolt in a steel plate and pull stud through plate with a 2 jacks and another plate. It will keep concrete from braking too bad.

If epoxy is soft it shouldn't be hard to pull out
Drill out epoxy with a regular steel drill redrill concrete out to the next size bolt.

It depends on what you want to hold as to the best anchor, Epoxy anchors are finicky a dirty hole too cold all pose problems.

Thunder stud, Kwik Bolts and trubolt are good drive in and wedge type anchors.

tom

 

[bamatoolmaker]

I use Trewax everyday as a release agent for epoxy,urethane, and polyester resins.The secret is 3 coats and buffing after each application.Even when your catalyst ratio is off when mixing epoxy.It may still get hard.Let it set for a couple of days or add a heat lamp ( 70 deg is the optimum temp for pouring and curing all the plastics I generally use.)

 

[Eagleview]

No epoxy is going to build up that sort of depth and last . If it is just a loose fit the best way to tighten it up is to go around it with a center punch . Put a pop mark every 1/8" all the way around the shaft , cover the entire area . This raises metal and makes for a lasting repair . Then knock the bearing back on . You can also add some Loctite Bearing mount to make doubly shure .

 

[Eagleview]

I don't mean to hijack this topic, but I have a slightly different problem and hopefully the same eyes might have a solution.

I used some epoxy to set an anchor bolt into drilled concrete hole. The epoxy was either bad or I or I didn't get the mix right and it's never hardened (and I don't think it ever will).

Any suggestions for getting the it out of the hole and starting over? The hole is 3/4" x 5"

Thanks,
-srj

Stick another batch into the hole , grab the rod with a drill chuck and slowly rotate it in the hole . It will all mix together and go hard . The new catalyst will cure the old glue as well .

 

[DieselPower]

I don't think I would epoxy it. Not really what it was designed for. Wouldn't it just be easier to get a bearing with a larger OD or have a sleeve machined. You could even weld it and then bore it out to the proper diameter. Lots of better options than epoxy.

 

[banjodunn]

You can get this goo called metal tec minute stick if you can get the shaft out easy enough mix this goo together and then you can machine it up to size i was sceptical of it at first but we tried some out on a worn snout on a crank in our shop tractor and it has now done over 500 hrs and not even looking like coming loose

 

[swines]

Epoxy embedded bolts are used in numerous applications from construction to mining. However, you must use a structural epoxy specifically formulated for use in embedding bolts in concrete. Hilti is one manufacturer that makes epoxies for use in concrete.

The main problem is getting the hole clean with no dust in it. If you don't get the dust out of the hole, it will form a layer between the epoxy and the wall of the hole - and will act to keep the epoxy from interlocking with the concrete surface. In effect - it's a mold release.

If possible, you need to blow out the hole with compressed air and then wash ithe hole with water, then blow it out again. Some epoxies will allow you to put the epoxy into a wet hole, others will not. The really hard part is ensuring the hole is filled completely which is why an application system that includes a nozzle is a big advantage.

It's often helpful to move the bolt up-and-down in the hole to get air bubbles out of the epoxy, then pull the bolt out, top off the hole, and reinsert the bolt.

Have done this on numerous projects, and if done correctly the anchor will be structurally sound.

 

[srjones]

Epoxy embedded bolts are used in numerous applications from construction to mining. However, you must use a structural epoxy specifically formulated for use in embedding bolts in concrete. Hilti is one manufacturer that makes epoxies for use in concrete.

I used a good epoxy, but the design of the mixer was pretty bad, or I at least I didn't read the directions very well. The manufacturer has since discontinued that type of package mixer..

The main problem is getting the hole clean with no dust in it. If you don't get the dust out of the hole, it will form a layer between the epoxy and the wall of the hole - and will act to keep the epoxy from interlocking with the concrete surface. In effect - it's a mold release.

I completely agree you there. I'm pretty sure that bad mixing proportions are to blame here.

If possible, you need to blow out the hole with compressed air and then wash ithe hole with water, then blow it out again. Some epoxies will allow you to put the epoxy into a wet hole, others will not. The really hard part is ensuring the hole is filled completely which is why an application system that includes a nozzle is a big advantage.

At the time, they were completely blown out. Now there's a mix uncured epoxy goo and water. I'm hoping there's some way I can clean it out and start over. Is acetone is good solvent for uncured epoxy resins? I'm thinking maybe take a cheap turkey baster a quart of acetone, and repeatedly cleaning and rinsing until it's no longer sticky so I can then drill it out with a slightly larger bit. Then it would be like starting over.

Thoughts?

 

[srjones]

Stick another batch into the hole , grab the rod with a drill chuck and slowly rotate it in the hole . It will all mix together and go hard . The new catalyst will cure the old glue as well .

If this wasn't for the my primary residence I'm building I'd give that a try. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

 

[Willl]

Maybe 'drill' the goo out ?

 

[mjfox6]

At the time, they were completely blown out. Now there's a mix uncured epoxy goo and water. I'm hoping there's some way I can clean it out and start over. Is acetone is good solvent for uncured epoxy resins? I'm thinking maybe take a cheap turkey baster a quart of acetone, and repeatedly cleaning and rinsing until it's no longer sticky so I can then drill it out with a slightly larger bit. Then it would be like starting over.

Thoughts?

Yes, acetone is a good solvent for uncured epoxy. I would try and remove as much of it as I could before I started using the acetone, though.

Acetone and plastic don't generally get along, it may eat your turkey baster.

 

[studor]

Instead of the turkey baster you might want to think about a cheap oil sump -- the ones that look like a grease gun without the pump handle. It would probably help you suck out the mess as well. Acetone will do in the baster and most empty syringes in short order (don't ask me how I know).

 

[CurlyDave]

If this wasn't for the my primary residence I'm building I'd give that a try. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

Be careful with that goo you pull out of there.

I used to work at a company where we used an epoxy for some process, and after using it for a few years the manufacturer discovered that one of the components produced testicular atrophy in rats.

Most of our guys were not at all amused by the letter they got over that one.

It turns out that most expoy components have a pretty high level of toxicity. Once the resin has set up, it is OK, but the uncured epoxy is not a good thing to have on your skin.