Everything Attachments

[EverythingAttachments]

Ok gotta a question for EA, and any grader blade experts as well:

Pic of EA's ED grader blade direct from their website:

And here's a pic of my EA ED 8' grader blade:

Anyone see a difference?


Forget the sides, look at the top link connection.

We do need to update the website pics and show off our newly improved design because it adds even more value to it. We used a grade 8 rod with a castle nut for years on our Xtreme 6-way scrape blade and Severe Xtreme landscape rake. It was strong with no failures, however we are constantly looking for ways to improve our products.

Ted implemented this new design after he started making our heavier Land Shark Scrape Blade, which features hydraulic options.
We now place a solid 2" shaft into a greaseable collar, which is then capped off. This new method of attaching the moldboard(scrape) and tine bar(rake) is more secure, easier to adjust and will wear less over time.
This is more expensive for us to make, but quality quite often trumps price around here.
The A frame now features the elongated upper toplink hole for extra float if needed or desired, which has been featured on our Severe Xtreme landscape rake for years!
We also went from a square stand to a round stand, which is easier to straighten. Lord knows, people forget and bend stands all the time and straightening a square tube without it kinking is next to impossible!
All of these features/improvements were added and I'm pretty sure the prices for our rake and scrape blade stayed the same! :thumbsup:
Travis

 

[FTG-05]

Yours has the option of a sliding top link connection, which is very handy if you are using skid shoes or gauge wheel and do NOT have a hydraulic toplink with the ability to float.

However, your blade doesn’t look as heavily built as the first one you posted?

That was the point of my post. Can someone say more about that? I do have TNT with float on the Top part, so I'm not sure I need that slot or not. I do not have the shoes nor a guide wheel. In fact, I was looking on the unit the other day trying to find a place to put a 2" receiver but haven't found it yet.




Also, someone here asked where you could buy those Cat 1/2 combination pins with the handles. Guess we solved that problem!!! (See first pic!)

 

[EverythingAttachments]

That was the point of my post. Can someone say more about that? I do have TNT with float on the Top part, so I'm not sure I need that slot or not. I do not have the shoes nor a guide wheel.

It would be most useful if one were using shoes and wanted max float.

Also, someone here asked where you could buy those Cat 1/2 combination pins with the handles. Guess we solved that problem!!! (See first pic!)

Yeah, I think that was you...
I've emailed around to see what I can dig up concerning step pins with handles.

That pic was taken before we started making it Category 1 & 2. The pin shown in your first pic is simply a 7/8" category 1 pin, like this.
Travis

 

[FTG-05]

Ok Travis, thanks for the heads up on the pins.

And if you don't mind the never-ending questions: The Shoes are supposed to keep the blade from digging in. Ok, what prevents the shoes from doing the same thing?

And the float thing on a grader blade: With it in float mode or the upper link in that slot, won't the default position of the blade be all the way forward since all the forces on the blade are at the bottom of the blade, causing it to rotate into the tractor? I guess I don't under how float works on a grader blade.

Thanks,

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Ok Travis, thanks for the heads up on the pins.

And if you don't mind the never-ending questions: The Shoes are supposed to keep the blade from digging in. Ok, what prevents the shoes from doing the same thing?

And the float thing on a grader blade: With it in float mode or the upper link in that slot, won't the default position of the blade be all the way forward since all the forces on the blade are at the bottom of the blade, causing it to rotate into the tractor? I guess I don't under how float works on a grader blade.

Thanks,

The blade does not roll forward on a rear blade as a box blade does. I have a video some place showing this, but can't find it at this time. :ashamed: This would be the setting that you would want to use if you had the gauge wheel setup.

 

[FTG-05]

Brian, thanks, if you could find that video that would be great, picture 1000 words all that.

Thanks,

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, thanks, if you could find that video that would be great, picture 1000 words all that.

Thanks,

Here is the video, it's very short.

Now I have skid shoes, but you can see what happens with the hitch set at the normal location and then with the draft arms lowered. Other than the blade angle being changed by the draft arms, the blade itself never wants to roll forward as what happens with a box blade.

I assume that is because the rear blade is back about twice as far as a box blade.

 

[FTG-05]

WOW! The amount of material piled up after dropping the lift arms was impressive!

A couple of questions, if you don't mind:

- Is that an EA blade?
- Did you convert it to hydraulic action or did it come that way.
- It appears that with the lift arms in their first higher position, the blade didn't dig in; I assume that's due to the shoes - yes? The shoes were then essentially bypassed when the blade front was dropped.

If so, looks like EA owes you a sales commission.....

 

[darmstrong2319]

He has a land pride rear blade and it’s set up nice.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

He has a land pride rear blade and it’s set up nice.

Thanks darmstrong2319.

My blade is a Land Pride RBT45108. A (cat 2-3) 9' blade rated for a 15,000lb machine. I purchased it with all manual adjusters and skid shoes. Added the blade angle hydraulic right away and just now have added 2 more rear remotes to the tractor for a total of 5 sets of rear remotes, so the rear blade will now have hydraulic offset also.

I rely on the 3pt hitch tilt for any blade side-side tilt needed. It is one of my most used implements.