Engine will not start/ Electrical Issue

[mohican]

Any help or advice is appreciated.

I have a LK3054 with 762 hrs. When I turn the key, nothing happens. No clicks, buzzing, nothing. Prior to this, I would turn the key and at least I would hear the starter click. Contacted my dealer and he advised to recheck the ground and make sure its not rusted. I pulled it off and cleaned terminal and tried again. Still no start. The dealer said it must be the starter. Took it in and they rebuilt it. Reinstalled and now nothing happens when the key turns. The dash lights come on, but nothing else. I have traced th3 wiring and can't find any breaks or shorts.

Any ideas on what I need to look at and how I should proceed?

Again, thanks for your advice.

 

[kiotiken]

I had a problem that sounds identical to yours on my JD. Turned out to be the batt. lead for the neg. terminal.

 

[mohican]

What diod you have to do? Clean it or replace the terminal?

Thansk for taking the time to respond.

 

[kiotiken]

My friend is a mechanic and he ended up finding the cause and fixing it when I wasn't there, but I'm pretty sure he trimed an inch or two off the lead and all was good. It had us stumped for a while the previous day. We could follow power all the way to the ignition switch, but turning the key did nothing.

 

[mohican]

Thanks for letting me know. I'l definitely look again at that cable and terminal. This has been an expensive mystery so far and I feel like a bonehead for not solving it sooner.

 

[kiotiken]

...I feel like a bonehead for not solving it sooner.

I'm no mechanic, but this stumped my friend who's a mechanic for the city of Ottawa, working on heavy equipment, for quite a while. Electrical issues can be a nightmare. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

 

[tcartwri]

I'm a little bit astounded that the dealer would rebuild the starter, based on the scenario you described.

The click you use to hear, is the fuel shut off solenoid, not the starter. I'm not familiar with your particular kioti, but the first thing I would look at is the ignition switch, since you have power to the dash cluster. Lots of threads on the no start issue on the kiotis and bobcats, including my own.

 

[mohican]

Thanks for the reply. I'll check those threads out as well. Did you replace or clean your ingnition switch?

 

[tcartwri]

Thanks for the reply. I'll check those threads out as well. Did you replace or clean your ingnition switch?

I wound up bypassing everything and jumpering the starter. In my case soaking the switch with WD40 cured it.

If you wind up bypassing the switch please make sure the machine is in Neutral!

 

[mohican]

Hey Tim - When you bypassed the switch, did you just cross the wires before the ignition switch? Sorry to sound like a dummy, but well..... Did you pull the ignition assembly and soak it WD 40 or spray it in place? Thanks again for your help.

 

[Patches]

I'm a little bit astounded that the dealer would rebuild the starter, based on the scenario you described.

The click you use to hear, is the fuel shut off solenoid, not the starter. I'm not familiar with your particular kioti, but the first thing I would look at is the ignition switch, since you have power to the dash cluster. Lots of threads on the no start issue on the kiotis and bobcats, including my own.

The 3054 has no fuel shutoff soleniod;manual fuel cable only

 

[tcartwri]

The 3054 has no fuel shutoff soleniod;manual fuel cable only

Thanks.

 

[tcartwri]

Hey Tim - When you bypassed the switch, did you just cross the wires before the ignition switch? Sorry to sound like a dummy, but well..... Did you pull the ignition assembly and soak it WD 40 or spray it in place? Thanks again for your help.

Sprayed it in place. In my case I turned the ign to run, and then jumpered the starter solenoid. ( Battery + >>> starter solenoid spade terminal )

I will defer to someone who actually has your particular machine though.

 

[Coyote machine]

I suggest beginning at the beginning: the battery. Make sure there are no dead cells and that the ground AND positive cable connections are not corroded, or compromised in any way. Sometimes the actual cable becomes corroded inside the sheath and is hard to discern without cutting into the sheathing to see.
Your battery has a date code on it - not when you bought it but when the mfg. made it. It may seem to be OK, but if there is a question then take it and have it load tested. Once the battery is completely validated then move on to other possibilities like ignition switch, etc.
Post back results.

 

[mohican]

Thanks for the advice. I did yank the battery and had it tested. Turned out full charge and holding charge. Have not looked at the sheath. Will do so tonight. Right now, I am willing to try everything recommended that does not involving buying a new tractor!

 

[mohican]

Tim - I'll also spray the switch. The last few chores have been in very dry and dusty conditions and I have not kept it covered like normal. Thank you again.

 

[grsthegreat]

I have heard that alot of Kioti open station tractors have had issues with their key switches from moisture. It doesnt affect the cab units.
'That is why the dealer probibly looked at the switch first. If its not the main fuse or in the fuse box, and the battery has tested Ok under a load you would thing it would have to be the ground issue.

Have you tried to start it by jumping battery with your truck??? I was wondering if they did a load test on the battery? A bad battery can still show 12 volts, but under a load it can drop off drastically. My Chevy van pulled this cra& with me 2 weeks ago. I drove it to the supply house just fine, then it wouldnt turn over. Lights worked just wouldnt crank. I pulled out tester and it showed 12 volts. I had someone check it when i cranked it over.....8 volts. A friend jumped the rig and i drove to NAPA. New battery later all is well again. Its amazing how fast those things can die.

 

[mohican]

Thanks for the information. I did try to jump it off and it struggled to turn over. It would not start. the cables becam very warm after a few minutes so I stopped the jump. The more info I get, I am suspecting the ignition switch. I will recheck the ground cable and then spray out the switch with WD 40.

 

[grsthegreat]

Thanks for the information. I did try to jump it off and it struggled to turn over. It would not start. the cables becam very warm after a few minutes so I stopped the jump. The more info I get, I am suspecting the ignition switch. I will recheck the ground cable and then spray out the switch with WD 40.

when you jumped it, did you connect the ground jumper cable to the FRAME..... just thinking that if it is a cable issue, this might get it to turn over

 

[mohican]

Now, I did not do that. That would make even more sense. Now teh cable is looking more suspect. If its not working well, it woiuld act as a barrier between the boosted electrical output and the frame.