Engine Up Grade for 2610D

/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #1  

Dave2610D

Bronze Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Messages
58
Location
Breaux Bridge
Tractor
Yanmar 2610D
Will the 3T84T fit into the 2610D model? Any attachment issues like bell housing and such?
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #3  
:confused: OK, was it like "taboo" to ask such a question? Thanks...

My opinion is that no one has a definite answer for you. Strictly gut feeling, I doubt it would interchange. Never heard of it being done but sure couldn't know it is impossible.
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I really appreciate your opinion, Winston. We are not too far apart from one another by your profile, I'm in Breaux Bridge, LA just outside Lafayette. Welcome neighbor :drink:
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #5  
yep. I have no idea and I am sure not many members here would. Aaron at Hoye would probably be your best shot.
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #6  
Would it fit? Sure it would. We once made a Perkins diesel engine out of an old combine fit in a 90's model Ford F250. Was it a good idea or worth the effort.... nope... not even close... but it fit! :) I suspect the same would likely be true with this swap.

Some obstacles that I see right off: The head is longer on the 3T84 which means the block is likely longer and so things like the hydraulic lines and even 4wd driveshaft & drag rod will probably be too short (depending on how you handle the extra length). The clutch shaft is different. The bellhousing adapter plate is different so it probably would need to be customized too. These are all completely conquerable obstacles but maybe not worth the effort.

Oh.... and then you have 50% more horsepower than the drivetrain was originally designed to handle so, just like our Perkins pickup, the rest of the drivetrain may just fall apart. :)
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #7  
Oh man the last Frankenstein ******* rig I owned was a '58 Willys Wagon with a Ford 292 V8 out of a dump truck. Torque heck yes. Enough to twist a spiral crack in the custom bellhousing between that engine and the transmission. Way back in the woods. I drove it all the way home with no way to disengage the clutch and the motor ready to fall out. Plus lots of similar problems, an hour offroad = an hour repairs at home to get it back on the road again. Sold it after a year and bought a 100k mile Wagoneer, bone stock, and never broke anything in several years of similarly harsh use. Learned my lesson, it isn't worth it to combine components that weren't designed to be used together.

Listen to Aaron, don't wast your time and patience trying to make that work.
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D
  • Thread Starter
#8  
OK Everyone, I'll take that advice and forget that idea:thumbsup:
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #9  
Thanks Aaron. That's the commons sense answer he needed.

Dave its just none of us have had our hands on your model and the engine model you were questioning so we really have no way to say yes or no.
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks Aaron. That's the commons sense answer he needed.

Dave its just none of us have had our hands on your model and the engine model you were questioning so we really have no way to say yes or no.

I very much appreciate all the post on my question and thoroughly understand all points made. My thought was, if I had thoughts of replacing my engine for any reason that I would have more than just one search going for it. Being the possible 3 rd-4th owner (?) I have no knowledge on how to determine if my engine is lacking power, compression, etc that would tell me it's time for a over haul or replacement engine.
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #11  
...how to determine if my engine is lacking power, compression, etc that would tell me it's time for a over haul or replacement engine.
Cranking over easily but difficult starting is the most obvious sign that compression is below spec, because a diesel needs compression to fire off. Extreme oil consumption, knocking, or a drop in power output over time would be other symptoms. Smoking on acceleration is harmless, continual smoke would point to a need to clean/replace injectors but it doesn't mean the whole engine is shot.

If you don't have these indicators there's nothing wrong with it. These things will run for years and I think difficult starting will likely to be the first sign the engine needs attention.

Isn't that the model that shares its engine with Deere 850? So there are salvage tractors out there if you ever need major parts.

Summary: don't worry about it. :)
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Cranking over easily but difficult starting is the most obvious sign that compression is below spec, because a diesel needs compression to fire off. Extreme oil consumption, knocking, or a drop in power output over time would be other symptoms. Smoking on acceleration is harmless, continual smoke would point to a need to clean/replace injectors but it doesn't mean the whole engine is shot.

If you don't have these indicators there's nothing wrong with it. These things will run for years and I think difficult starting will likely to be the first sign the engine needs attention.

Isn't that the model that shares its engine with Deere 850? So there are salvage tractors out there if you ever need major parts.

Summary: don't worry about it. :)

Yes, its like the JD950 I think. The only thing I seem to match to your points of interest about a replacement possibilities would be the starting issue. If I have the throttle lever in the "idle" it will take a bit of cranking to get it to kick off if it does. But if I give it maybe 1/2 or almost full throttle, she'll crank up after maybe 3 seconds.....at that point I immediately throttle down to idle ( not having the engine rev up obviously). There is a knock but I am assuming it is from the fuel pump? No oil consumption. No smoking and very little (black ) on acceleration.
Would a compression gauge be useful for me to check compression on each cylinder? I think my father may still have one if so. What pressure range would be optimal?

Thank you guys for all of the help here....one fantastic forum !!!!
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #13  
Its not expected to fire off with a cold start at idle. Yanmar's operation manual says crank at full throttle, pull back before it gains rpm. I think most of us use half throttle instead.

Your description sounds like its in good condition. Injector pump sharp knock - even with compression released - is normal.

Its not practical to check compression unless real problems indicate something is wrong. 1) compression is too high for an automotive tester. 2) You would have to pull the injectors which is difficult. I found it near impossible to replace the injectors on my similar YM240, they were cemented hard in the bores going down to the actual sealing point and I broke a couple of attempts at an amateur puller before I got them out. Hoye sells a puller but it requires dis-assembling each injector. After using that I would get them rebuilt if they had been apart and contaminated. Summary if it isn't broken don't 'fix' it.

Just run it and enjoy it, don't imagine problems. :)
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #14  
Its not expected to fire off with a cold start at idle. Yanmar's operation manual says crank at full throttle, pull back before it gains rpm. I think most of us use half throttle instead.

Your description sounds like its in good condition. Injector pump sharp knock - even with compression released - is normal.

Its not practical to check compression unless real problems indicate something is wrong. 1) compression is too high for an automotive tester. 2) You would have to pull the injectors which is difficult. I found it near impossible to replace the injectors on my similar YM240, they were cemented hard in the bores going down to the actual sealing point and I broke a couple of attempts at an amateur puller before I got them out. Hoye sells a puller but it requires dis-assembling each injector. After using that I would get them rebuilt if they had been apart and contaminated. Summary if it isn't broken don't 'fix' it.

Just run it and enjoy it, don't imagine problems. :)

Ditto.
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #16  
I very much appreciate all the post on my question and thoroughly understand all points made. My thought was, if I had thoughts of replacing my engine for any reason that I would have more than just one search going for it. Being the possible 3 rd-4th owner (?) I have no knowledge on how to determine if my engine is lacking power, compression, etc that would tell me it's time for a over haul or replacement engine.

you could do a compression test, but on these diesel engines that is a pain in the butt. Do you have any blowby from the bloy by tube? That is a good indicator of engine health. A healthy engine will have little or basically nothing there and the more worn the rings and cylinders are the more you will see from that tube.
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D #17  
Yes, its like the JD950 I think. The only thing I seem to match to your points of interest about a replacement possibilities would be the starting issue. If I have the throttle lever in the "idle" it will take a bit of cranking to get it to kick off if it does. But if I give it maybe 1/2 or almost full throttle, she'll crank up after maybe 3 seconds.....at that point I immediately throttle down to idle ( not having the engine rev up obviously). There is a knock but I am assuming it is from the fuel pump? No oil consumption. No smoking and very little (black ) on acceleration.
Would a compression gauge be useful for me to check compression on each cylinder? I think my father may still have one if so. What pressure range would be optimal?

Thank you guys for all of the help here....one fantastic forum !!!!
Starting procedure on these things I think say to crank it at wide open throttle. I crank and half or 3/4 throttle and then immediately run it down to like 1300rpm

Edit: after reading all posts I see that what I said in this and prior was basically covered. I responded without reading all new posts.
 
/ Engine Up Grade for 2610D
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Clemsonfor and those that contributed to this post....my apologies for having not responding to your post as well not having been logged in on the forums in quiet some time. In response to your two last post, I've got very minimal black oil blow by from the vent tube hanging from the engine after normal run time. I've just moved 24 yards of loose dirt two weeks ago and there was more than normal that leaked from the tube but nothing to alarm me to anything serious...if that makes sense? ...glad I had plastic on my concrete LOL:thumbsup:
Your cranking procedure is right on.....thank you for that. I've been cranking that way from day one and glad you repeated it......helps us.
 

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