Engine seized???

[bkline19]

For what it's worth, just checked intake for scent and it doesn't smell like any kind of living creature was in there... haven't unbolted anything yet though.

 

[oldnslo]

Thank you - can you advise how to go about turning it over by hand? Is cranking on the flywheel advised or is there a better option? It's hard to get leverage in the small window that's open for the starter assembly to fill.

Yes you can use teeth on flywheel. Just use your judgment on how much force to apply. Get to rambunctious and you can break teeth off the flywheel

 

[bkline19]

Yes you can use teeth on flywheel. Just use your judgment on how much force to apply. Get to rambunctious and you can break teeth off the flywheel

Thank you! Will let y'all know how it goes.

 

[DieselBound]

I'd still recommend pulling the injectors; or, perhaps better yet, pull the glow plugs (you already have a bad one that needs pulling anyway).

Be real careful about using force. Rarely does force end up producing good results in things such as this.

One possible scenario is that it's hydrolocked. Maybe leaking injectors?

 

[Richard]

Thank you - can you advise how to go about turning it over by hand? Is cranking on the flywheel advised or is there a better option? It's hard to get leverage in the small window that's open for the starter assembly to fill.

Not sure I've seen your question clearly answered....

If I understand you correctly, you're asking about turning the engine over by using the flywheel at the back of the engine where the starter might engage to start it.

You might find it easier to put a socket on the front of the engine. Put it on the harmonic balancer or flywheel pully at the bottom of the engine. The pully that is attached to the crankshaft.

Now you can gently rotate the engine with a long handled wrench (think breaker bar) I've got a 24" socket wrench so that would make something like that easy to do by ratcheting the wrench in place.

You might be able to do this while standing in front of the machine instead of perhaps crawling under it (no idea how you're getting your access)

 

[DieselBound]

Fully recommend rotating via socket and breaker bar from the pulley end of the crank. Can apply a more even force. Not as much leverage off of flywheel teeth (potential for busting your knuckles).

Make it easy. Pull the GPs! Spray them with some PB Blaster (or such) and let them soak for a bit. Usually it's best to run an engine before removing the GPs (heat them up), but that option, clearly, isn't available.

If there's any meaningful resistance going clockwise check for counterclockwise rotation, but only turn in that direction a little bit to ascertain how locked things might be. Locking tends to happen due to combustion chamber contention: dropped/broken valve. Rotating the engine counterclockwise will test this situation.

Might also be advisable to then pull the valve cover to see if there are any signs there: it would be pretty obvious.

 

[bkline19]

Not sure I've seen your question clearly answered....

If I understand you correctly, you're asking about turning the engine over by using the flywheel at the back of the engine where the starter might engage to start it.

You might find it easier to put a socket on the front of the engine. Put it on the harmonic balancer or flywheel pully at the bottom of the engine. The pully that is attached to the crankshaft.

Now you can gently rotate the engine with a long handled wrench (think breaker bar) I've got a 24" socket wrench so that would make something like that easy to do by ratcheting the wrench in place.

You might be able to do this while standing in front of the machine instead of perhaps crawling under it (no idea how you're getting your access)

Unfortunately I can't seem to get a socket on there - because the crankshaft leads forward directly into a hydraulic pump mounted on the front frame bracket. So, I can't figure out how to get leverage on the crankshaft up front, as a result!

 

[bkline19]

Fully recommend rotating via socket and breaker bar from the pulley end of the crank. Can apply a more even force. Not as much leverage off of flywheel teeth (potential for busting your knuckles).

Make it easy. Pull the GPs! Spray them with some PB Blaster (or such) and let them soak for a bit. Usually it's best to run an engine before removing the GPs (heat them up), but that option, clearly, isn't available.

If there's any meaningful resistance going clockwise check for counterclockwise rotation, but only turn in that direction a little bit to ascertain how locked things might be. Locking tends to happen due to combustion chamber contention: dropped/broken valve. Rotating the engine counterclockwise will test this situation.

Might also be advisable to then pull the valve cover to see if there are any signs there: it would be pretty obvious.

Thank you!

 

[DieselBound]

Is this an HST or a manual?

Is the radiator fan a fixed one or is it a clutched one? (assuming that's an option for accessing)

I seem to remember someone starting their tractor by turning over the PTO shaft. Not that I'd recommend trying this, but there might be something here to work with. Figure this just a muse (total ignorance on my part).

 

[LouNY]

You can also bump the engine over with a geared transmission and a dry clutch,
by simply putting the tractor in it's highest gear and rocking the whole machine back and forth.
With a front mounted hydraulic pump your options are a bit limited.
A large pry bar to the flywheel teeth or rock the tractor.
Or you can try to rotate it by engaging the pto and turning the shaft but thats only 5 to 1 or so ratio.
Pulling the glow plugs or injectors will remove the compression so it should turn over easily.