Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help!

   / Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help! #11  
The coupler between my engine and hydraulic pump has completely stripped/sheared out. The engine is a predator 670cc from harbor freight with a 1” shaft and 1/4” keyway. The pump is an Eaton with a 7/8” 13 spline shaft. Currently I am having difficulties with getting the worn out coupler off the engine, as well as sourcing a replacement. Any ideas are appreciated on how to go about any of this. Thanks in advance!
Try these: 7/8" 13 Tooth Splined L-099 Jaw Coupling Half | 3 Piece Flexible Jaw Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com , 1" L-099 Jaw Coupling Half | 3 Piece Flexible Jaw Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com ,1" L-099 Jaw Coupling Half | 3 Piece Flexible Jaw Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com . The 3 links are for the three parts needed to make a flexible coupling to go from your splined shaft to your keyed shaft. Good luck.
Eric
 
   / Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help!
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I’m not sure if those are rated for enough horsepower. The current engine is 22 horse, replaced the original kohler. I’m sure they have something similar though that is a bit more heavy duty
 
   / Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help!
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Gotcha. Wasn’t sure why I wasn’t getting the problem.
If you turn the engine around, you’ll have an oppos rotation and the pump will not work.
Makes sense. Probably explains the reason why they ended up with the current setup.
 
   / Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help!
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Be sure there isn’t any hidden set screws on the keyway side?
That dimple on the shaft was very suspect at first. It’s not a roll pin or a set screw though. It’s just a dimple, almost as if a grease fitting started to get drilled then just stopped. I can spin the shaft and have since got the rust off and there is nothing.
 
   / Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help! #15  
U could also cut the current bad splined section off and weld a new 13 spline section on. Or have a hydraulics shop do it. Once you remove the current coupler off. Try heating it
 
   / Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help! #16  
I have a PowerTrac PT425 with a 25hp Kohler in it. I have pumps on both sides of the motor. So one side has the original shaft that drives some continuous fixed volume pumps, and the other side of the engine has the screen removed and a PTO stub shaft installed to drive the variable volume drive pump.

Something like this..

As others have mentioned, rotation has to be noted.

The fixed volume pumps are bolted directly to the engine with a pump mount. The variable volume pump on the other side is connected with a lovejoy.

The beauty of the lovejoy is you can purchase one have to fit the engine shaft size and the other to fit the pump shaft size. Works great.

Good luck with your project.
 
   / Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help! #17  
Try surplus center out of Nebraska for couplers
 
   / Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help! #19  
Heat, or split it with a grinder and zip disc. If the coupler is stripped, you dont have to worry about ruining it.

Zip-disc across the top of the keyway.....You dont have to worry about nicking the shaft and its less grinding because thats the thinnest part of the coupler.

Then a small cold chisel or screwdriver as a wedge to open it up a bit
 
   / Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help! #20  
The shaft is all ready gaulded that’s why the coupler wont come off. Heat isn’t going to do any good. may have to cut it off to have any chance of saving the crankshaft.
 
 
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