Electrical Run - ground wire question

   / Electrical Run - ground wire question #11  
DON'T forget to ground the negative side of the solar modules and if they don't come with them, add blocking diodes to each module!

It depends on the inverter used. In my system the panels are floating with respect to earth ground.
 
   / Electrical Run - ground wire question #12  
I am running approx 375 ft of #2 copper from my main distribution panel to a sub panel at the cottage. 70AMP breakers, 240 volt. Loss will be just over 3%.

I would suggest you price aluminum wire for this long of a run. You will be able to go up several wire gauges and still be half the price of the copper.
 
   / Electrical Run - ground wire question #13  
I would suggest you price aluminum wire for this long of a run. You will be able to go up several wire gauges and still be half the price of the copper.



That's his statement that confused me thinking he was changing back from solar to grid.
Why on earth not have everything at the house site?? That's an awfully long run of cable.
 
   / Electrical Run - ground wire question #14  
That's his statement that confused me thinking he was changing back from solar to grid.
Why on earth not have everything at the house site?? That's an awfully long run of cable.

It's my understanding that is what he is doing. He's moving the small solar array from the cottage up to the existing array on the main house. Then running a feeder line back down to the cottage.
 
   / Electrical Run - ground wire question
  • Thread Starter
#15  
tcartwri said:
It's my understanding that is what he is doing. He's moving the small solar array from the cottage up to the existing array on the main house. Then running a feeder line back down to the cottage.

That would be correct.

A bit of history: the cottage was built during a series of 2 week visits from shortly after buying the property in 2003 until we moved there in 2005. When we moved in 2005, I built a small solar system. I found a diagram in HomePower magazine, bought panels and some parts via eBay. Worked quite well - as a learning tool. It started with only the 4 sharp 123w panels. My wife lived there while I returned to Ga to finish getting our house to put on the market. Unfortunately, she choose to listen to the neighbors and didn't run the generator nearly enough for the batteries. We nursed about 6 months out of them. We also learned about conservation. I added the 125w panels to improve, changed the charge controller to an Outback MX60, and took much better care of the new batteries. Also replaced the generator with a Honda EU3000i. We lived there until fall of 2007 when our new house was habitable. We sized the house solar with the thought to eventually connect. Last year, I remodeled the cottage, adding a roof to the lanai. Unfortunately, that roof blocks 2-3 hours of morning sun. In April my Honda went on the fritz and estimated 7-800 to repair. So after seriously considering where to relocate my panels, factor in that my batteries are now 6 years old, the loss of my Eu3000i, just seemed time to bite the bullet and consolidate. Yes, it will cost a bit more initially and be more work and take longer, but the long term benefits win out. The panels become part of the main system, I can upgrade my extra charge controller and swap out and have a spare, only one battery bank to maintain, and sell off my freed up inverter and even recover a bit on the extra batteries etc. My main house system was professionally done although I have changed out and improved a couple of minor components this past year. There is also existing room in my combiner box for the 3 new strings of panels. The 4 Outback FX3048 inverters were installed to accommodate the expansion.

I did buy my wire today. 500 ft spools of #2 copper, $749 at HD, minus my military discount. I did briefly consider using larger gauge Alum, but decided to go with the copper, as did my electrician when he ran my other sub panels.

John47 - have you evaluated your wind? My first attempt at expanding my small system was to add an AirX - big mistake for me. I did it based on how windy it was at night and winter. Even though I could see the little light glowing and the needle bounce a bit, I never saw my batteries plus send up in the morning. I often wished I had bought 2 more panels at the time. The L-16s have a mixed reputation around here, then again so do most of the installers. Based on what you have posted, I'd be tempted to suggest just installing a set of golf cart bats and after you have all your generation worked out then install a good set.
 
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   / Electrical Run - ground wire question #16  
I only need wind as a backup, we are not in a high wind area.
As for batteries, I require high output, and long life, I was considering Nickel Iron at one stage, problem is the very high price, if I was 20 years younger they would be my choice, as they have an infinite life, reasonable output and very light weight together with being a none polluting battery, ie the electrolyte isn't hazardous to the environment. The main drawback is price, and then having to replace the electrolyte every few years.

My main aim is to be off the grid to be as self sufficient as possible, hence having 8 cells giving me around 2Kw of charging power at peak sunlight, plus 400watts of wind power at peak winds.
I also have two auto alternators with good windings I plan to convert to permanent magnet rotors for wind generators.
If I can get 20 plus amps from wind during cloudy days and night periods, I'll be happy, that's 20 amps at 30 plus volts for the 24 volt battery banks.

I have a good open spot for the wind generators on a small hill in one of my fields.
 
 
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