DS4110 Block Heater Installation

DavidAero · Dec 1, 2013

Hi!

I'm new to this Forum. I own a DS4110 since last May and very happy. I will buy a snow blower (I've bought a 75" Meteor, but I saw some bad review on it, hopefully mine will be fine) and I decide to install a block heater. I've reading on the subject and some people seems to have issues with theirs pooping out. Hopefully won't happen to me. Since there are no instructions provided with the block heater I will post what I did, and maybe will help.

My first step was to empty the coolant. There is approximately 8-10 Litres.

After, I wasn't which freeze plug to remove, and I want to make sure I'm able to remove the starter without problem. So I did the exercise, I install temporary the bushing and look if the starter can be removed (I unplug the battery before).

The starter can be removed no problem.

Next is to remove the freeze plug. It is quite easy, you have to gently hammer the top of the plug and it will start to pivot, than you remove it with pliers by pulling the bottom. You need to dry the block and clean the area where there will be the bushing.

The next step is to clean the bushing and apply Permatex red thread locker or high temp silicone(I use silicone)

Install the bushing with a hammer and socket and an extension or in my case I have a bearing installer. Than install the block heather.

And I tie the wire as follow

Make sure the wire is not rubbing against the panel.

Let's hope it won't pop out. I tried it and it seems to hold so far.

Do you have any advice on purging the air from the rad? If I squeeze the top hose, I can ear air bubble, but when I remove the rad cap, it's full...

Coyote machine · Dec 1, 2013

Hi, Welcome to TBN.
I'd leave the cap off and run the engine to get it up to temp to get the T-stat to open and then fluid/air should flow no problem. Then put the cap back on. Let it cool down significantly then SLOWLY remove the cap, making sure there is no excessive pressure from the possible still trapped air or unopened T-stat. For future reference it might be wise to find out which freeze plug to knock out from your selling dealer or on TBN. Some may have not enough open passage for the plug to fit into the water jacket, or may require a certain plug location for other reasons.
Good pics.

DavidAero · Dec 1, 2013

Thank you,

I've been letting it running for a while 15-20 minutes. As soon as the level started to get lower, I was filing it, but then start to expand. I put the cap back. I let it run, but doesn't seems to want to warm up. I used it a little bit, but I don't think it was enough, when I touch the block, I could leave my hand there... I will let it cool down over night and do the exercise with your advices tomorrow.

My dealer told me to put it on the driver side, but didn't mention which one. I've measure the dept, and the end of bushing is within the block thickness, it doesn't block the passage. Do you have a block heather on yours? Where it is install?

Coyote machine · Dec 1, 2013

Yes, it's on the same side, orientation is from the operator's seated position, so driver's side would be left, in N. America, at least.
My model is the DK series, but it looks basically the same...
I would run it tomorrow morning and drive it around outside a little. Don't do any work with it until you get the temp gauge reading right, and the coolant flowing properly - hot top hose on radiator. You HAVE to get the air out before you run it too long without coolant flowing through the entire engine or you could do damage. I'd run it around 1200-1500RPMs for around 5-10 minutes and see where you're at with getting flow back to the radiator. I'd probably shut it down before 15-20 minutes so you don't generate too much un-disipated heat. Liquid MUST flow for the engine to cool properly. You may have to do this a couple of times to get it going...be patient.
Report progress/results.
When done check for leaks at the freeze plug.

Buckgnarly · Dec 1, 2013

When I did mine I reused the coolant to make sure I got all back in. There is nothing special about the cooling systems on the Kiotis, the highest point is the rad and a pressure refill is not required like some cars. If you are really worried, try this kit for refilling, works great for non pressure fill coolant systems...

Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel : Amazon.com : Automotive

I have a Meteor too, and have been quite happy with it.

ritcheyvs · Dec 1, 2013

The trick with block heaters is not to run them too long. In other words, don't run it all night long. Just turn it on a couple hours before you need to start the tractor. Leaving it on too long just wears out the heating element and runs up the electric bill without making the engine significantly warmer. Some people use a timer to start the heater before the alarm clock goes off. Another thing that helps cold starts is synthetic engine oil which won't get as thick as regular oil.

unimog_jason · Dec 2, 2013

David,

Did the heater kit come from Kioti?

When I bought my Dk40, my dealer told me that Kioti didn't offer a kit and said if I installed one of those heater it may void my engine warranty should anything go wrong. His recommendation was to install a lower rad hose heater, but I sooner use a proper block heater.

If your kit was from Kioti, could you share the part number? I got through last winter without a heater, but I would feel better if I could plug the tractor in on those really cold days.

Jason

Buckgnarly · Dec 2, 2013

unimog_jason said:
David,

Did the heater kit come from Kioti?

When I bought my Dk40, my dealer told me that Kioti didn't offer a kit and said if I installed one of those heater it may void my engine warranty should anything go wrong. His recommendation was to install a lower rad hose heater, but I sooner use a proper block heater.

If your kit was from Kioti, could you share the part number? I got through last winter without a heater, but I would feel better if I could plug the tractor in on those really cold days.

Jason

No, if you check my posts I link to a source for the heaters, a member on here that escapes me right now. Lower rad hoses are not as efficient as you lose heat through the radiator (it's doing exactly what it should, dissipate heat) while a block heater heats the block itself plus the coolant. As for warranty, only way that would stand is if it caused specific damage that could be traced to the heater itself. So do be careful on install, but don't worry about frivolous stuff like rejecting an drivetrain claim b/c of a block heater.

Coyote machine · Dec 2, 2013

My Kioti dealer puts Katz block heaters in all the Kiotis he sells. I've never used mine to date, since I store her under a blankie in my heated barn.

Careful installation and you should be good to go. I'd set it on a heavy duty timer to trip ON at a specific time and then unplug it when wanting to start it - couple of hours at most on so as to not burn out the element from over use. YMMV.