dcyrilc
Super Member
I wouldn't be suprised if it's the same sensor used for their gate control. About 1-1/4" diameter x 14-16"?
Driveway alarms; do they work?
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I wouldn't be suprised if it's the same sensor used for their gate control. About 1-1/4" diameter x 14-16"?
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
1" diameter, 13" long sensor.
dcyrilc
Super Member
Sounds about right. I haven't looked at my gate sensor in a while.:laughing:
Nice avatar NSBound!
I agree, it is a nice avatar. I wonder how long before someone removes it for you and tells you this is a family site like they did to me.
OP
mjncad
Super Member
That thought has crossed my mind too.
Kubota Tee
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Just ran across this thread . . . Last year I installed a Dakota Alert driveway alarm. I have the sensor mounted inside what looks like a bird house sitting about 20 feet off to the side of the driveway. I have been completely happy with it. The sensor is approximately 400' away from the house.
The only down side (as my wife tells me) is that when I mow the lawn or do tractor work in the area, I tend to set it off on a regular basis and if the wife is in the house it drives her batty! I usually notice that after a couple of days without hearing the alarm that she had turned it off during one of my outdoor work sessions.
I'll take a few pics tomorrow and post them on this thread
The only down side (as my wife tells me) is that when I mow the lawn or do tractor work in the area, I tend to set it off on a regular basis and if the wife is in the house it drives her batty! I usually notice that after a couple of days without hearing the alarm that she had turned it off during one of my outdoor work sessions.
I'll take a few pics tomorrow and post them on this thread
OP
mjncad
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Kubota Tee
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Here are the pics I promised.:thumbsup: I ordered mine with 2 sensors. One is the driveway sensor disguised as a bird house and the other is basically a wireless doorbell. The inside unit sounds a different tone for each one so you can tell the difference.
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GGB
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I just put in a Mighty Mule Driveway Alarm. The sensor is about 200' from the house, and there are no trees or other obstructions between. I had to place the receiver on a window ledge facing the transmitter for the sensor in order to get a signal. It works fine, but I had hoped to place the receiver in a corner under a cabinet to be out of the way. I couldn't get any signal when it was behind a wall (sheetrock, fiberglas insulation, cedar siding-my windows are double pane, aluminum clad on the exterior and wood clad on the interior).
I also tried the sensor in our bedroom which would add about 50' to the distance, and couldn't get a signal at all from that location. I had really hoped to be able to monitor the drive from our bedroom at night.
I'm wondering if I need to raise the sensor transmitter higher off the ground. I have plenty of cable, so will try this when it is warm enough to stay outside. Anyone already tried this?
I should also point out that we do have a security system for the house, with cell phone backup to the landline. Down the road, I plan on putting in a security camera system, so the Mighty Mule is just a current fix. I'll be visiting with the security system folks to see if it makes sense to integrate with the current system, but I'm looking for input before I talk to them.
GGB
I also tried the sensor in our bedroom which would add about 50' to the distance, and couldn't get a signal at all from that location. I had really hoped to be able to monitor the drive from our bedroom at night.
I'm wondering if I need to raise the sensor transmitter higher off the ground. I have plenty of cable, so will try this when it is warm enough to stay outside. Anyone already tried this?
I should also point out that we do have a security system for the house, with cell phone backup to the landline. Down the road, I plan on putting in a security camera system, so the Mighty Mule is just a current fix. I'll be visiting with the security system folks to see if it makes sense to integrate with the current system, but I'm looking for input before I talk to them.
GGB
Kubota Tee
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GGB,
I'm afraid I can't help you with the mighty mule, but I can share my experience with the Dakota. I have about 400' between the sensor and the house. My receiver is in our hallway next to the phone which means the signal has to travel through the garage door (metal) and through the entrance door (also metal). I suppose it could be going through the walls as well which are 6" thick with fiber cement siding on the outside and 5/8" drywall between the garage and house.
The volume control on the receiver allows me to set it at a level where we can pretty much hear it from anywhere in the house as the hallway is centrally located.
Good luck with your mighty mule!
Boeing
Platinum Member
Fellas,
two questions. My property is wooded and rises almost 1,000' from state road thru woods up, up a wooded drive then over a crest to my homesite.
Is there any AMPLIFIER or relay that could send a relay a signal up the hill and over the crest to me? These detectors and relays would have to be battery powered as I have no electricity. Eventually I'll have electricity at the house site but never down the drive......ideas?
two questions. My property is wooded and rises almost 1,000' from state road thru woods up, up a wooded drive then over a crest to my homesite.
Is there any AMPLIFIER or relay that could send a relay a signal up the hill and over the crest to me? These detectors and relays would have to be battery powered as I have no electricity. Eventually I'll have electricity at the house site but never down the drive......ideas?
OP
mjncad
Super Member
Boeing:
I had a similar issue with a 'Water Cop' device I have in my basement. A ham radio/architect/electronics inventor friend gave me a simple and cheap solution. Place a continuous piece of copper wire (I used 14 AWG solid) with one end within 1" on the transmitting antenna, and the other end within 1" of the receiving antenna. The ends should be parallel to the antenna if possible and they shouldn't touch. The wire acts as a repeater and no batteries or other power sources are required. It worked for me and it was simple and cheap. I used insulated wire with the insulation stripped off a couple of inches at each end; but my buddy says the insulation can stay on.
I had a similar issue with a 'Water Cop' device I have in my basement. A ham radio/architect/electronics inventor friend gave me a simple and cheap solution. Place a continuous piece of copper wire (I used 14 AWG solid) with one end within 1" on the transmitting antenna, and the other end within 1" of the receiving antenna. The ends should be parallel to the antenna if possible and they shouldn't touch. The wire acts as a repeater and no batteries or other power sources are required. It worked for me and it was simple and cheap. I used insulated wire with the insulation stripped off a couple of inches at each end; but my buddy says the insulation can stay on.
jcummins
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I am in the process of buying a place that will have a very long drive, and this topic interest me.
Are you saying you run a wire the full length of the transmission? If so, why not just use a 'wired' solution?
OP
mjncad
Super Member
I asked my ham radio buddy the same question and he said don't do it and proceeded to fill me in on all sorts reasons not to that I didn't understand since electronics isn't my strong suit.
eepete
Platinum Member
My driveway sensors are wired. They are the CarTell CP 2. The upside of a wired system is obvious- no batteries. The CarTell is a buried sensor than senses moving metal, so no triggers from wildlife.
The downside is you have this huge run of wire out there connecting to electronics at both ends. So you have to do a lot of protection of the electronics.
The wires for my sensor are in a 160 PSI black PE pipe buried 2' down. At the sensor end, you need to come up and go into a box so you can both splice to the sensor and have some transient protection (MOVs or TVS Diodes). Put the sensor in a 3" PVC pipe at an angle so you can have it right at the edge of the driveway, but are working 4' away from the edge if you have to dig it up.
Coming into the house, you have to come in at or near the single point of entry and have gas tube protectors (like the telephone company uses). Then, before you go into any electronics, you have to have additional TVS diodes. Finally, you need to do something with the relay closure you get such as wire it into an automation or security system or connect it to a relay to ring a standard door bell chime.
Regrettably, none of the "normal" automation or home security sites sell a kit with all these pieces so you're left to design and fend for yourself. And things outside with long runs of wire can always have a problem if a lightning strike is too close. Even giving advise on what to do is shaky since eventually a system will have a failure and then since you gave advice somehow you own the problem.
So wired can be done, but you have to know the pieces. This is probably why wireless systems are popular. I hate batteries with a passion, so I went the wired route. Two sensors gives me direction (coming and going). And as far as cost, the wired solution with the right protection tends to cost about $500 for a sensor (if you're digging the ditch) by the time you buy the sensor, pipe, wire, and protection devices. Then you still have to do something with the contact closure from the device. Probably the only good thing about a wired approach (other than no batteries) is the seat time digging the ditch :thumbsup:.
Pete
The downside is you have this huge run of wire out there connecting to electronics at both ends. So you have to do a lot of protection of the electronics.
The wires for my sensor are in a 160 PSI black PE pipe buried 2' down. At the sensor end, you need to come up and go into a box so you can both splice to the sensor and have some transient protection (MOVs or TVS Diodes). Put the sensor in a 3" PVC pipe at an angle so you can have it right at the edge of the driveway, but are working 4' away from the edge if you have to dig it up.
Coming into the house, you have to come in at or near the single point of entry and have gas tube protectors (like the telephone company uses). Then, before you go into any electronics, you have to have additional TVS diodes. Finally, you need to do something with the relay closure you get such as wire it into an automation or security system or connect it to a relay to ring a standard door bell chime.
Regrettably, none of the "normal" automation or home security sites sell a kit with all these pieces so you're left to design and fend for yourself. And things outside with long runs of wire can always have a problem if a lightning strike is too close. Even giving advise on what to do is shaky since eventually a system will have a failure and then since you gave advice somehow you own the problem.
So wired can be done, but you have to know the pieces. This is probably why wireless systems are popular. I hate batteries with a passion, so I went the wired route. Two sensors gives me direction (coming and going). And as far as cost, the wired solution with the right protection tends to cost about $500 for a sensor (if you're digging the ditch) by the time you buy the sensor, pipe, wire, and protection devices. Then you still have to do something with the contact closure from the device. Probably the only good thing about a wired approach (other than no batteries) is the seat time digging the ditch :thumbsup:.
Pete
Here is what I used:
Sensor:
AX70TN Perimeter Beams
Relay for converting the 12v trigger to 120V output:
HomeTech Solutions: Relays
One siren in the basement and one in the shop (both wired after a switch for wife's sanity while mowing/plowing).
http://www.mallory-sonalert.com/specifications/SC110FK.pdf
Pretty good system, but the deer also activate it
Sensor:
AX70TN Perimeter Beams
Relay for converting the 12v trigger to 120V output:
HomeTech Solutions: Relays
One siren in the basement and one in the shop (both wired after a switch for wife's sanity while mowing/plowing).
http://www.mallory-sonalert.com/specifications/SC110FK.pdf
Pretty good system, but the deer also activate it
Mousefield
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We an Optex driveway alert. It is wireless and has been in use for about 7 years with no problems. Range is good for about 300 feet. I put a white drain pipe over it to keep snow off it. Have 2 receivers for it, one in the house and one on the outside of the barn, that way if we are in the back yard or barn area we will hear it. One night about 10 PM it went off and the wife went to see what set it off, turned on the 500 watt flood light and there was a mother cougar and 2 half grown cubs about 75 feet from our front door.
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Boeing
Platinum Member
Fellas, I've seen the battery powered alarms etc but....How can I make a battery powered RELAY for a drive alarm? In Virginia, the drive is 3/4 mile thru woods....climbing up a hill. So distance AND grade prevent "line of site" The hill levels about 75 yards from the shop and 150 yards from a building site. I would like to know of guests BEFORE they top that hill. Any ideas? (I have no electricity) Thanks
brin
Super Member
Fellas, I've seen the battery powered alarms etc but....How can I make a battery powered RELAY for a drive alarm? In Virginia, the drive is 3/4 mile thru woods....climbing up a hill. So distance AND grade prevent "line of site" The hill levels about 75 yards from the shop and 150 yards from a building site. I would like to know of guests BEFORE they top that hill. Any ideas? (I have no electricity) Thanks
You might consider installing the detection unit at the top of your hill so that there will be line of sight..The idea is to alert you of someone approaching your home. It would only take seconds for someone to get from the entry of your drive to the top of the hill anyway so why not give those seconds up in favor of knowing when a car passes the top of your hill...unless you care about knowing the very instant someone pull onto your drive...Just a thought.
OP
mjncad
Super Member
Check out post #32 Boeing.
