Drawbar question.

   / Drawbar question. #1  

Pa Pa Jack

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2011
Messages
138
Location
Hodges, SC
Tractor
Mahindra 3016
I have a 3016 Gear. I have never used the swinging drawbar before. I have looked at it, but never had a need to remove it from it's mount behind the seat.

Yesterday I was going to move a trailer for a friend and decided to use the drawbar to move it to the back of his property. the trailer was set up to use a simple drawbar and pin type setup.

Well, the drawbar was gone. the bolt that held it down was there, but the nut had apparently come loose and it must have fallen through and out the bottom.

I was a little upset, but figured I'd get a new one. WOW!!!! $175 dollars!!!!!!

Can I substitute a different swinging drawbar? Agri-Supply has one for $40 including shipping.

I don't know if they are interchangeable.
 
   / Drawbar question. #2  
Measure the height and width of your draw bar bracket mounted on the tractor. Also, measure the hole diameter for the bolt.
Then, read your tractor's manual on any info concerning using the draw bar (it'll be mostly about which hole to use depending on the intended load).
Then, if the Agr-Supply draw bar dimensions (height, width and hole diameter) match, you should be OK purchasing it.

As far as the missing draw bar and nut...I'm going to surmise the nut was free running and had no lock washer to secure it. The vibration during tractor operation probably loosened it and it vibrated off. However, the bolt should have kept the draw bar in place (if it went through both the bracket and draw bar). Are you sure you haven't misplaced the draw bar?
 
   / Drawbar question.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I have never removed it from it's mounting. I have walked most of the areas on my property, but it's like looking for a needle in a haystack. I've done so much tilling and brush hogging, that it could be anywhere.

It's not small, so maybe it will show up.
 
   / Drawbar question. #4  
I have a 5530 4WD with 25 hours on it and mine disappeared while plowing and discing a couple food plots. At that price I will wait to buy until I have a need.
 
   / Drawbar question. #5  
I'll check to see if mine is there. If so I'll at least get you dimensions so you'll know if the after market one will fit. Worst case I could prolly make you one from some scrap.
 
   / Drawbar question.
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I'll check to see if mine is there. If so I'll at least get you dimensions so you'll know if the after market one will fit. Worst case I could prolly make you one from some scrap.

I would really appreciate that. I was told that they are so expensive because they are heat treated so they can handle the forces without bending.

It seems to me that a piece of steel one inch thick by about 2.5 inches wide is going to be stronger than necessary under normal operations.
 
   / Drawbar question. #7  
I would really appreciate that. I was told that they are so expensive because they are heat treated so they can handle the forces without bending.

It seems to me that a piece of steel one inch thick by about 2.5 inches wide is going to be stronger than necessary under normal operations.

I'm a dealer and I'd just get a chunk of steel the same size and drill a couple of holes and paint it black. If Mitsubishi is so proud of that part that the price comes to $175, then they really should be able to keep them themselves and we will make our own!

There seems to often be no ryhme or reason to certain parts prices. For example, inside your tractor is a fancy machined sleeve that slides on splines and then has cogs machined into it. It is heat treated and has a bunch of precise machining, it is used to engage the diff lock. I think it is something like $30, really cheap for such a part. Then a hunk of mild steel with a couple holes drilled in it (draw bar) is $175? Go figure.

Anyway, your problem is easy to solve, and you will probably run across your original drawbar one of these days.
 
   / Drawbar question. #8  
I'm a dealer and I'd just get a chunk of steel the same size and drill a couple of holes and paint it black. If Mitsubishi is so proud of that part that the price comes to $175, then they really should be able to keep them themselves and we will make our own!

There seems to often be no ryhme or reason to certain parts prices. For example, inside your tractor is a fancy machined sleeve that slides on splines and then has cogs machined into it. It is heat treated and has a bunch of precise machining, it is used to engage the diff lock. I think it is something like $30, really cheap for such a part. Then a hunk of mild steel with a couple holes drilled in it (draw bar) is $175? Go figure.

Anyway, your problem is easy to solve, and you will probably run across your original drawbar one of these days.

Have you ever priced out the Mahindra lynch pin that comes clipped to the side link on the 3pt hitch? Hold on to your chair when and if you do, I believe that 1 of those pins sells for $5.87 :shocked: Not bad money for a .20 item. :confused2:
 
   / Drawbar question. #9  
Like Dave's Tractors mentioned prices are funny. I bought an entire fuel filter assembly. It had the filter, O rings, machining, the bowl, valves etc. Really quite reasonable. Then I bought a pin (perhaps forged) that fit in the pull bar and it was quite expensive in my estimation.
I just looked it up, the complete filter assy was $39.64 and the pin was $63.80. Go figure as he said.
 
   / Drawbar question. #10  
Dave's Tractor is right and I made my own just like he said. Mine was missing when I bought it used. I priced a new one at various dealer's on the internet and they were $221.99. Ouch !! I bought a 2 foot piece of cold rolled bar stock 7/8"x 2-1/4" , took it to work and milled it to the size I wanted and then drilled the three holes in it. All for about $30.00. My tractor is a 2015 so I don't know if the dimension's would be the same. Mine may be smaller. Maybe a dealer can answer that. If I can help let me know.
 

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