Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested.

/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested. #1  

bitseeker

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Messages
136
Location
Mount Shasta, California
Tractor
GL5240
We have a new Kubota GL5240-3. With purchase, we had the dealer install a 3rd function valve to operate a thumb on the FEL or the elevation deflector on a snowblower. The valve is electrically-actuated by two switches (up & down) on the FEL control stick. The dealer did not have quick disconnect couplers and terminated the outlet tubing on the FEL with caps. I added quick disconnect couplers of the same type at the tractor-to-FEL connection.

I bought and mounted the Green's Thumb after getting the tractor home, and it has not ever worked correctly, and operation just got worse (none!). I'd appreciate suggestions and criticism of the troubleshooting steps and my conclusions so far.
Thumb operation was different at different times. Sometimes the thumb would not open and sometimes it would not grip strongly. After cycling or raising and dumping the bucket, operation would change.

1. I thought I had a bad QD coupler that was blocking flow in one direction, and changed it. Now I am not sure that the coupler was the source of that problem.

2. To eliminate the chance that my hoses or couplings were bad, I made up and attached Male-to-Female coupler loop hose and attached it to the FEL attach couplers in place of the thumb cylinder. The switches made hydraulic fluid flow in both directions with no apparent flow restriction (no engine load), but the hoses did exhibit some pressure.

3. I replaced the Thumb open and close (cylinder extend and retract) hose from FEL to Thumb's cylinder (replaced with test hoses, test coupler-ends and no flow-restrictors at the cylinder).
- Engine RPM = 1,000
- Thumb opens all the way
- Thumb opens slowly (40 seconds).
- Thumb has some open force, but will not quite lift 175 pounds.
- Thumb closes slowly (10 seconds) with no switch actuation. (Will not stay open.)
- When the thumb closes slowly, as above, I cannot restrain slow closing. Hydraulic pressure seems to close it.

The above tests indicate that none of the operational hoses, couplers, or flow restrictors were the cause of the thumb problems, because all of the operational parts have been replaced.

4. Other observations:
- After FEL operation (Lift, Curl), and rapid thumb open/close commands, the Thumb stopped operating completely.
- With 3rd function defeated (switch up, light off), both 3rd function hoses have pressure (expand on engine start, relax on engine stop)
After the operation got worse, I did the following:

5. The Nachi P-SK-GO1-C7Y-GPT-D1-5162H 3rd function valve does not click when pressing either the upper or lower switch. The valve used to click.

6. Checking the 3rd function valve electrics, the switches are sending 12-volt power to the valve.

7. Each of the solenoids has a resistance of approximately 5-ohms, which seems correct.

8. Both output hoses have pressure when the engine is running, even with electric power defeated (light off).

9. With the engine off, I can manually cycle the cylinder full range, forcing oil in either direction through the valve. Looking at the valve specification, I believe that it is spring-centered, with both output ports blocked when centered, and should block flow, stopping cylinder motion in the valve's center position (no voltage to either solenoid).

10. With the engine running, because the extend/clamp-side of the Thumb cylinder has more area, the Thumb is clamped closed. I cannot use the FEL in this condition, and will have to at least remove the thumb.

11. Because of the 3rd function valve, the pressure will be on both the open and close hydraulic lines to the couplers on the FEL at all times the engine is running. This loads the engine, and seems like poor practice. I do not think I should operate the tractor like this. Correct?

12. From the above, I conclude that the valve's internal shuttle is stuck in a partially open position, and that the solenoids cannot move the shuttle.

Please give me any ideas and opinions you have on this problem.

Any ideas on what to do next?

Thanks
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested. #2  
Is there a plate with a symbol on the electric solenoid valve??
If so...can you post a pic or a drawing of the symbol??


Solenoid-Direction-Hydraulic-Valve-DSG-.jpg
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested. #4  
Found some specs for the coding....your valve haave this C7Y code...which means it is semi open during the transient period....I call the valve is bad and stuck in transient position....this explains why its closing the thumb (extending cylinder) when not operated...probobly stuck from a piece of rubber oring or similar...take it apart and clean it....make sure the spool moves freely....
nachi_code.jpg
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested.
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Akkamaan,

Thanks for the fast and complete response. Yes the JIS symbol on the valve is exactly what you posted. I do not know how to disassemble the valve, but I guess I'm about to learn!

Any tips are welcome.

-BitSeeker
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested. #6  
I think AK figured it out...sounds like the dealer used the wrong valve as well for you application-it should just be OPEN or CLOSED.

After taking the coils off (the big nuts) the spool should slide out easily, you will want to clean inside the subplate also. Look for any pinched/nicked O-Rings as well between the valve body and the subplate.
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thank you kennyd,

Regarding the wrong valve, I wondered why the "Semi-open" Transition Flow Path too. I suspect it is the intended valve though, as I just got from the dealer the Kubota Instruction Manual for the 3rd Function Valve Kit for this particular tractor, and I'll bet the valve came in the kit. Maybe someone knows another application where a Semi-open Transition Flow Path would be valuable?

I got the four-sheet product description for the SK-G01 from Nachi's web site, and it has a cross section of the valve. From that, it looks like the the "big nut" on the ends will allow the solenoid actuator to come out, leaving the coil and its two O-rings untouched, and the spool will come out through the coil housing. Does that sound right?



Another question: The Dimensional Drawings show a "Manual Push Pin". Should it be possible to operate the valve, at pressure, by pressing those pins?

Thanks again for the help and education.

-BitSeeker
 

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/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested. #8  
My initial idea was that you had got a valve with a motor spool...A and B open to tank in neutral....then I found the Nachi website and the codes for valves...
The code for your valve do not show the "N" for push pin...Push pins are very common, and just use a soft material pin/stick to push with....there is an o-ring on the push pin, that create some friction.....you'll need some 5-10lbs of force...full push stroke should be just little more than 1/4" or so....be careful, if it's a piece of metal, you can damage the spool and the housing....

Try push pin before taking valve apart....

Also I dont know if your Kubota system is a open center with a fixed pump, or a closed center...

If it is an open center, this third function valve must be installed in a power beyond position....

If it is a closed center system, you have the wrong valve too.....:confused:
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested. #9  
AK, it's an open center system...
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested.
  • Thread Starter
#11  
My initial idea was that you had got a valve with a motor spool...A and B open to tank in neutral....then I found the Nachi website and the codes for valves...
The code for your valve do not show the "N" for push pin...Push pins are very common, and just use a soft material pin/stick to push with....there is an o-ring on the push pin, that create some friction.....you'll need some 5-10lbs of force...full push stroke should be just little more than 1/4" or so....be careful, if it's a piece of metal, you can damage the spool and the housing....

Try push pin before taking valve apart....

Also I dont know if your Kubota system is a open center with a fixed pump, or a closed center...

If it is an open center, this third function valve must be installed in a power beyond position....

If it is a closed center system, you have the wrong valve too.....:confused:

The help here is wonderful. My dealer is 80 miles away, not to responsive, and I suspect, not as expert as you folks.

I did try the push pin and found no change. With no engine off, one side pushes approximately 1/4" and the other approximately 1/8", confirming that there is something blocking the spool I think. The pins pop out with engine on, and neither can be pushed in against the pressure.

I have been trying to understand Power Beyond, and would like a hydraulics book recommendation so that I understand better how the tractor is built so that I can maintain, add, modify, and repair with some knowledge. For instance, I have no idea the difference between "open center" and "closed center" or what a "fixed pump" is. Half the fun of having a tractor is understanding the systems.

As to Power Beyond, the Kubota installation instructions for the 3rd function kit mention PB in the hydraulic changes, and I think PB is Power Beyond. I was confused as to why there are two output lines on the manifold and three others. Now I think those are pressure, return-to-tank, and Power Beyond.

I plan to disassemble and clean the valve. Unfortunately, I do not have the high-pressure fittings to block the hydraulics if I find damage, damage an O-ring, or otherwise cannot re-assemble the valve, so I don't want to render the tractor inoperable while I wait for those parts or a new valve. The dealer seems to stock nothing. If anyone has disassembled one of these Nachi valves, I would appreciate pointers on how and what to watch for.

For other TBNers buying a new tractor with dealer-added options, I suggest requiring the dealer to supply the option's installation instructions the dealer uses in addition to the Operator's Guide and other paperwork. The dealer kept mine, and told me those are not normally delivered to the buyer, but I asked soon enough, and this is the second tractor purchase at that dealer, so he sent what he could find. Before purchase there is lots more leverage. Those instructions are helping me understand the GL5240, and in the case of the defrosted rear and side windows for the cab, made me realize that I bought replacement glass, and should be able to recover the original three panels to keep as spares in case one of the heated ones is broken some snowy March day.

I will post findings and photos when this 3rd function problem is resolved.

-BitSeeker
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested. #12  
The pins pop out with engine on, and neither can be pushed in against the pressure.
That confirms the valve is stuck in transient position, oil pressure will hit both ends of spool and push pins out....

I have been trying to understand Power Beyond, and would like a hydraulics book recommendation so that I understand better how the tractor is built so that I can maintain, add, modify, and repair with some knowledge.
Power Beyond refers to a valve ability to accept full system pressure on the exit port, to make it possible to add an extra valve down stream

For instance, I have no idea the difference between "open center" and "closed center" or what a "fixed pump" is. Half the fun of having a tractor is understanding the systems.
A fixed displacement pump, is a pump that can not change flow other than with the change of rpm...

As to Power Beyond, the Kubota installation instructions for the 3rd function kit mention PB in the hydraulic changes, and I think PB is Power Beyond. I was confused as to why there are two output lines on the manifold and three others. Now I think those are pressure, return-to-tank, and Power Beyond.
You got it right!

I plan to disassemble and clean the valve. Unfortunately, I do not have the high-pressure fittings to block the hydraulics if I find damage, damage an O-ring, or otherwise cannot re-assemble the valve, so I don't want to render the tractor inoperable while I wait for those parts or a new valve. The dealer seems to stock nothing. If anyone has disassembled one of these Nachi valves, I would appreciate pointers on how and what to watch for.

Take the plastic cap off....slide coil off....use wrench on the hex at end of solenoid housing (your "wrench flats")...should be enough to open on one side and pull the spool out....remember what ends comes out first....spool might be non symmetric....

About plugs....if you have old scrap hoses/fittings that fits...use a welder to "plug" one end.....

]
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested. #13  
Just remember you CAN NOT "plug" the hoses if you remove the valve! There is the full flow from the hydraulic pump running through those PB (power beyond) lines whenever the tractor is running and you must not block it or bad things can happen.

Here is a good basic resource to read through The Army Hydraulics Manual
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested.
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thanks for the warning. I guess a union to continue the Power Beyond, and caping the Tank and output hoses would work.

Thanks for the manual link. I downloaded it. I see that it does not refer to Power Beyond, and suspect that's a sales term used by equipment manufacturers. I'll do an Amazon search for a hydraulic book.
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested.
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Thanks AK, both look great. I just bought the Insider Secrets to Hydraulics book and related materials.
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested. #17  
I had a third function valve stick after installing on my kubota last year. It worked about three cycles of the grapple and then stuck half open, and three point hitch would not work. I took the valve apart and found a small piece of metal in the valve keeping it from closing. I figure it came from one of the fittings or something during install, just glad it stuck there and not inside the tractor somewhere. You should have no problems with servicing the valve.
 
/ Do I have a stuck 3rd function valve. Your assistance requested.
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I thought I'd provide an update on the current condition of the GL5240's hydraulic system. The dealer came out twice and was unable to diagnose the problem, so picked up the tractor and took it to their shop. The problems got so bad as they diagnosed it here that backhoe and 3-point function were lost entirely, and the FEL would only lift or drop with symultaneous bucket tip.

They worked on it two full days in their shop, and with Kubota technical service's help, found what they think is the core problem. There was a filter, described by the service manager, as a very fine-mesh screen in the pressure side of the hydraulic system. It had been picking up the manufacturing debris and was almost entirely blocking flow. The tractor has approximately 20 hours on it. Kubota told the dealer that screen should not be there. I'll ask for an exact location of the screen so that other TBNers can check for that screen if they want. They are to return it in a day or two. I can hardly wait!

I am concerned that when I was running the tractor with the 540 RPM flail mower for an hour with the blocked hydraulic system that the rubber seals, hoses, and maybe the oil itself was damaged by getting very hot. I was not aware that it was getting hot when I ran the mower, so don't know how hot it got, but shortly after, I noticed the high temperature. I'd appreciate any opinions on how to determine if there has been damage, and what to do.

TIA
 

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