DK-45 Clutch adjustment

[Dr_K]

I have a DK-45 with 400 hours, and the clutch is out of adjustment. The manual is of little help. I did shorten the adjusting rod by about 1/2 an inch, & that helped, but it is still difficult to engage the forward-reverse lever without grinding.
Should I shorten the adjusment rod more? It barely went back together on the top end after the last adjustment adjustment. It would have been nice if they had made it as easy to adjust as the brake lever!
Is a trip to the dealer is an store for me? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[depratt_equip]

Is it just the shuttle that is grinding or does the transmission also grind while shifting. It shounds to me like the syncros in the shuttle are worn.

 

[TractorLegend]

If a manual tranny is grinding with clutch depressed, shortening the freeplay would only worsen the condition if it were a clutch adjust issue- it sounds like tranny synchro/fork problem. Shortening the freeplay decreases the amount of disengagement. If you tightened up the slack and it were better then your onto a clutch issue. Clutches as they wear have less freeplay at the pedal and you would need to add some freeplay via loosening adjustment. I'm not sure if Kiotis have a pilot bearing or bushing or bearing in the back of the crank supporting tranny input shaft- if it were seized you could get clash issues. Happy hunting!
Mark H
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Certified Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
Tractor Junkie

 

[Dr_K]

Yes, it is just the shuttle. The gear shifter works fine.
Thanks for the reply.
Jerry K.

 

[Dr_K]

Thanks, Mark. I lengthemed the clutch adj. rod this morning & that helped a lot. But, I have to be at a dead stop to shift from forward to reverse or back without grinding. If I start in neutral and then shift into forward or reverse, then I get a slight grind. Maybe oil on the clutch plate? Maybe a broken finger loose in there?
In any event, I'm O.K. for now, but wonder if I have clutch rebuild coming one day?
Thanks for the reply!
Jerry K.

 

[depratt_equip]

Its your syncros in the shuttle. More than likely they need shimed. Does your shuttle pop out of gear ever? Your clutch is more than likely not the problem but the syncros in the shutte.

 

[TractorLegend]

I think Jon's right, my knowledge applies to generic automobile manual tranny clutches---I haven't yet had the fun of tearing into a shuttle tractor. My CK30HST order is a couple weeks to a month off. So from what I understand the shuttle is in front of or behind the main gearbox?

"I cut it three times and it's still too short"

 

[depratt_equip]

The shuttle is in front of the main gearbox.

 

[Dr_K]

Thanks, Jon! For now, I am shifting o.k. as long as I come to a full stop. If I start up in neutral & then shift into forward or reverse, I really have to baby it to keep from grinding. If I shift directly from forward to reverse or back at a full stop, it is pretty smooth. I guess that is a small price to pay to avoid a repair that involves that dreaded phrase: "break it in two."
I assume that shimming the synchros would involve that.
Thanks again,
Jerry K.

 

[depratt_equip]

Yes it would require splitting the tractor in two...

 

[Barrettseq]

Remove the drain plug closest to the clutch and check the magnet for 3 little keys. You do not have to drain all of the oil out, just pull the drain plug and put you finger in the hole and look for the keys on the plug. If you see 2 or 3 keys like Jon said you need to split the tractor. One tip, when you install the syncho pack use 2 rubber bands to hold the keys in place and then remove them after installation. Good luck.

 

[Dr_K]

So the keys would have broken off, I assume?

Today I found that if I shift my 4 speed shifter into neutral, then there is less if any grinding when I engage the shuttle shift, especially if I go easy. Does that make sense?
Thanks!

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Today I found that if I shift my 4 speed shifter into neutral, then there is less if any grinding when I engage the shuttle shift, especially if I go easy. Does that make sense?
Thanks!)</font>
Well, yes, it makes sense, but it defeats the purpose of having a shuttle shift. If one must shift the gear to neutral, then it stands to reason that one could just go ahead and shift to revers and forward with the gear shift and eliminate the shuttle altogether. If the shuttle is grinding, fix the problem and enjoy using the shuttle as it was meant to be used.
John