DIY Oil Spray

[71bronco]

Does anybody spray their trucks with used motor oil? I have so much oil from 3 cars and a diesel truck I thought this might be a cheap way to keep the rust at bay. Could I use a pressure sprayer? Or is this a bad idea? I could just paint it on if I had to. I know it will be messy but I have some junk tarps I could put down.

Thanks,Jeff

 

[WilliamBos]

Does anybody spray their trucks with used motor oil? I have so much oil from 3 cars and a diesel truck I thought this might be a cheap way to keep the rust at bay. Could I use a pressure sprayer? Or is this a bad idea? I could just paint it on if I had to. I know it will be messy but I have some junk tarps I could put down.

Thanks,Jeff

Bad idea. Had a used 88 GMC that this was done too, and the waste oil did not run down into all the low spots and cracks. Do you have a free drop off location?

 

[BertZegers]

Bad idee!

Oil is lighter then water, so it will push the water down into the seams and then prevent it from evaporating.

 

[rambler]

Neighobrhood mechanic does this, here in MN the cars get eaten up with salt in winter, he tarps down his shop be4 Thanksgiving and had a airless handheld paint sprayer, lifts the cars up & sprays them down. Not sure if he adds a little something to the used oil, siad new oil don't work worth a hoot, used is much better for the job. Seems to work good, but again, we have serious salt damage around here, have to do something.

--->Paul

 

[Stihlrunner]

I would also be concerned about what the oil would do to bushings, mounts and rubber fuel lines.

 

[herringchoker]

I get my vehicles sprayed initially with Rust Check, which seeps inside all the little crevices (motor oil won't). (Used to be Ziebart, but it didn't work as well.) BUT, I undercoat every fall (just before snow flies) with a liberal blast of used motor oil, using an undercoating gun. Oil undercoating works, and has for over 30 years for me. I keep my vehicles for a long time - my last pickup was a 1979 F-100 (Ziebarted when new and oil-sprayed every year since I bought it in 1987) that I sold in 2010. Our last car was a 1994 Mercury Topaz that was Rust Checked for the first few years and then oil undercoated after that until sold in 2007. I just sold a 1972 Ford E-300 van that I bought in 1985. When I first got it I repaired rusted out doors and a rocker panel and then oil sprayed inside them. The van had a rubberized undercoating before I bought it, and I oil sprayed that every year for 12 years. It then sat for 14 years before I sold it last fall. All 3 of these vehicles were sold with no rust where they had been oil sprayed. I have more stories, but I've gone on long enough.

 

[Rustyiron]

I use a garden pump type sprayer. Lay cardboard boxes flat out on shop floor, put on some junk clothes and have at it! I pull any plugs in panels and insert the spray tip and stop when it starts to run out. If I get to it before the ground frezes, I'll hit a dusty dirt road and put on a good layer of dust. I believe in it. Gather up and burn the cardboard. Spray everything except the drums/rotors. I do keep up weekly rinsing to get the salt and sand/grit off of everything and the oil stays there and the water beads up on it just like it does on a waxed surface. The greenies might faint at this thought, but done as I describe above, there is no problem that I can see, hey it is being recyled, or as they love to say re-rurposed.:confused2:

 

[namesray]

I use a garden pump type sprayer. Lay cardboard boxes flat out on shop floor, put on some junk clothes and have at it! I pull any plugs in panels and insert the spray tip and stop when it starts to run out. If I get to it before the ground frezes, I'll hit a dusty dirt road and put on a good layer of dust. I believe in it. Gather up and burn the cardboard. Spray everything except the drums/rotors. I do keep up weekly rinsing to get the salt and sand/grit off of everything and the oil stays there and the water beads up on it just like it does on a waxed surface. The greenies might faint at this thought, but done as I describe above, there is no problem that I can see, hey it is being recyled, or as they love to say re-rurposed.:confused2:

i use a wagner power stainer and have been doing this for 3 years to 2 trucks and a jeep liberty. i mainly use used hydrolic oil with a little mix of used motor oil. hydrolic oil has a higher flash point and greatly reduces any risk of fire. i spray everything under the vehicles i can see except the catalitic converters and 4 brake/wheel areas. no problems with seals or hoses/lines. it beads up the water. i will try to run a dusty road as this locks the oil on better but i haven't done it every time. i do it every late fall (october) and have been thinking about doing it in the spring too. i am a big believer that this helps cut down on rust. the first year i did it i used a pump sprayer and a 4" paint brush. didn't work so good. but the wagner power stainer works great. sprays a fine mist and shoots it far enough to hit the hard to reach areas. best of all i don't get any on me and there is hardly any mess. i can do a vehicle frame in about 30 to 45 minutes. i also will pressure wash it through out winter and it still beads water off in a lot of areas a year later!!:thumbsup: i do carry a fire extingusher with me for the first few trips, but havent even had any sign of a problem. like i say, keep it away from the catolictic converters as they get real hot. other people in this area i have heard use some diesel and old tranny fluid in their mix as they say the diesel helps it leach and the tranny fluid already has rust inhibitors in it.

 

[71bronco]

Looks like I'll give it a try. Thanks for all the advice.

Jeff

 

[klmspider]

AutoZone in Hartville will take your oil for recyling (and other will, too). There is an oil spray business on Martin Road in Mogadore, and I know of a few in Akron. I used to oil spray, myself, but with concrete driveways and old age... have stopped doing it, myself. I used to use a 3 gallon pressurized bulk paint sprayer container. It looked a lot like a pressure cooker. I then had a brass rod, similar to one for a yard weed sprayer that took the air/oil mixture deep inside car doors, and hidden spots in quarter panels. Good luck! Personally, oil spray works for several reasons- one, not to be overlooked, is the concerned motorist is simply more likely to take care of their vehicle, which includes frequent washes, from above, and below.

 

[DarkBlack]

On my late Silverado, the only thing not rusted underneath was a small area where periodic oil change oil dripped.
I'm a believer.

 

[tcartwri]

Used oil stinks... just saying.

 

[stuckmotor]

Used oil stinks... just saying.

Agreed. I'm sure we don't have to spray with that nasty black stuff down south.

 

[brokenot]

Used oil stinks... just saying.

Perhaps some used fryer oil from a favorite restaurant?

I guess the down-side would be feeling hungry all the time while driving around...

 

[Looking4new]

:welcome: klmspider.

herringchoker.....what year is your Freightshaker? Mine is a 2001.

 

[Bigkrank]

Get two spray cans of LPS3 or similar and have at it. Dries waxy and gobs of dust don't stick.

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Measuring Tools, Cutting Tools and Shop Supplies

 

[herringchoker]

:welcome: klmspider.

herringchoker.....what year is your Freightshaker? Mine is a 2001.

It's a 1984. It was built in Burnaby, BC in August, 1984 but wasn't put into service until March, 1985 by Coastal Bulk Transport of Dartmouth, NS (a division of Provost Cartage of Montreal - now part of Trimac) to pull triaxle bulk tankers - 110,000 lbs. GCW. It was registered as a 1984 model, even though it had the 1985 style grille (probably because it didn't have brakes on the steer axle). Coastal ran it until October, 1992 and I bought in March, 1993. I ran it on highway until 1996, when I replaced it with a 1992 Kenworth with a 425 Series 60. I then added a 15.5 foot dump box and brakes on the front axle and used it on construction work until 2003, when I sold all 3 of my trucks and got out of that racket.

It was one tough old truck. It had a Cat 3406B (350HP "Economy" - max. 1900 RPM - seems fast nowadays but was considered slow then), RT14615 (which I converted to overdrive to get more road speed), 4.88 gears in Rockwell SSHD's and a14,600 lb. front axle, all on 22.5 rubber. With that high torque Cat and slow gears, gearfast trucks with 100 more HP could not touch it on the hills....on the flats, well that's another story.