DIY Home built compact tractor

[joes_427_vette]

Ryan L & GT 2 ; Sounds like a couple real interesting projects. A friend of mine made an articulated loader using a chrysler four cylinder with a front drive automatic transmission. After mounting the engine he welded one end of the transmission output and used it to operate the hyrdaulic pump. It turned out very nice. He runs into more salvage parts for practically nothing than I can count. The only real problem was the welded axle shafts would snap with heavy use. Will be looking for some of Ryan's progress pictures as well. Some interesting engineering takes place in these projects.

 

[dfkrug]

GT2:

I am working on a Sammy, too, with the idea of making a nice
utility vehicle with hyd dump and 4WD. I do wish I had the AT
instead of the 5sp. I can get multiple 86-89 vehicles here for
$500 each.

Questions: Why do you want to narrow the wheel track (axle width)?
What is wrong with using the existing 1.3 liter gas motor?

 

[GT2]

GT2:
Questions: Why do you want to narrow the wheel track (axle width)?
What is wrong with using the existing 1.3 liter gas motor?

While the sammy is not a large vhic, it is still a bit wide compaired to a compact tractor. I need something that can get down fence lines and buildings in the city (5').
I guess there is nothing wrong with the 1.3, I just wanted diesel, better low end power and safer than gas.
Tim

 

[GT2]

I snuck in a little time on the project after work tonight.
Heres the rear axle apart. Needs to be shortened 8-5/8".

Here the axle tube is cut and the bearing housing retainer is trimed off. Notice the piece of tube inside the retainer ( lower right), I just pop it out and press the housing on the cleaned up tube end.

The bearing housing on the shortened tube. I've checked "caster" and camber, I still need to check toe then weld it up.

 

[dfkrug]

While the sammy is not a large vhic, it is still a bit wide compaired to a compact tractor. I need something that can get down fence lines and buildings in the city (5').
I guess there is nothing wrong with the 1.3, I just wanted diesel, better low end power and safer than gas.
Tim

I find the Suzuki to have very similar track and wheelbase to my 2
compact tractors. Indeed the super-short wheelbase of only 72" is
one of the reasons these vehicles are so prone to rollover on the
hwy. I see that the folks who modify these to make "rock-crawlers"
out of them like to eliminate any anti-sway bars to increase suspension
travel. This exacerbates the rollover tendency.

Since you want to make a tractor out of the Suzuki, are you going
to eliminate the suspension? If so, you will want to incorporate a
front axle center frame pivot.

 

[GT2]

Since you want to make a tractor out of the Suzuki, are you going
to eliminate the suspension? If so, you will want to incorporate a
front axle center frame pivot.

That is my plan.
Any idea how much front pivot " swing" there should be?

Say, I notice in your PP there is a pic of a Backhoe mounted PHD.
It looks like the PHD is powered from the bucket cyl hyd's?
Does it use the same control valve also?

 

[supertiger]

What if you had two Sizuki front axils on it and made it all wheel steering? of course you would need two create a power steering system for both ends.

 

[GT2]

What if you had two Sizuki front axils on it and made it all wheel steering? of course you would need two create a power steering system for both ends.

I had a friend suggest that also, we bench raced about it. I have axcess to some boat hyd helm units and slave/servo cyl's. Its very do-able, but I dont want to get that complicated.

 

[JPinnell]

I've been planning for a couple of years and actually started to gather parts for something very similar. Almost a M274 military mule.

I am going to do 4 wheel steer using two Dana 30 front axles left from regearing my Jeep Comanche. I plan to shorten them and make it a centered pumpkin to use the 2 short axles. I'll be using either radius arms front and rear or the articulating tractor style front end suspension. I do plan to use a transfer case from a Samurai since it's divorced and has flanged input and outputs. I picked up a junker hyd drive golf course mower and plan to couple the wheel motors to the transfer case. Thsi will give variable speed and 2 spd ranges. I'll either weld the diffs or do the poor mans traction control using turning brakes VW Dune Buggy style.

I should end up with something more capable than an ATV and for half the price. I'll use it for hauling firewood and eventually snow plowing the driveway. Hopefully it'll be a Summer project, but I've got to finish my Changfa Generator first.

I'm anxious to see how your's come along

- JP

 

[dfkrug]

That is my plan.
Any idea how much front pivot " swing" there should be?

Say, I notice in your PP there is a pic of a Backhoe mounted PHD.
It looks like the PHD is powered from the bucket cyl hyd's?
Does it use the same control valve also?

How much swing? I have not measured it, but it is prob 2" of
swing at 12" from center. There will need to be a firm stop for
the frame to rest when the axle is firmly pivoted to full swing.

Yes, my hyd PHD is a Worksaver 714H unit, adapted to my hoe,
using the curl circuit for the hyd motor. Works great.

4-wheel steer is a cool idea. I would love to try it some day.
It would work well for a low speed tractor, but poorly at higher
speeds unless Rears turn only a few degrees.

 

[GT2]

Yes, my hyd PHD is a Worksaver 714H unit, adapted to my hoe,
using the curl circuit for the hyd motor. Works great.

4-wheel steer is a cool idea. I would love to try it some day.
It would work well for a low speed tractor, but poorly at higher
speeds unless Rears turn only a few degrees.

I like the PHD back hoe mounted idea. I'll have to try that myself someday.

In my younger days I drove a large Hyster telescoping forklift at construction sites. It would 2, 4, wheel and crab steer with a twist of a valve.
The crab function got me into and out of some tight situations, especially with a large machine.

If I were to build a 4 wheel steer (non articulated) machine I think I would make the rear steering selectable, because of the high speed stability.

 

[GT2]

Started working on the frame tonight.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm really enjoying this. Your welding and fabricateing skills are part of it, but also your aproach to doing this. I'm looking forward to following your progress.

Thanks,
Eddie

 

[Renze]

GT2, do you use a band saw, or did you cut those angles from the loose wrist with a disk grinder ?

I see you have nice welding clamps. I need to pick up some more, the ones you can get from the 5 Euro bin at the gas station is usually crap... My friend left me some 3 foot clamps when he helped me out. Now he's a year in Ghana so i can use them. Ever since i got them i start to appreciate those things and feel i need lots more of those clamps.

 

[GT2]

Thanks Eddie, this has been a new and challenging project for me. So far so good.

Renze: I used a 14" chop saw with abrasive blade ( there is a pic of it back in the posts where I'm cutting the axle tubes). I have a band saw, but it is too painfully slow when working with large/ thick tubing.
Shop around, 14" chop saws are cheap! They are fast and very usefull. I buy the cheap " thin" blades, they cut faster, but also wear out faster!

I have a box full of those cheap clamps, you put any kind of torque on them and they twist and bend ( I had to learn the hard way ).

 

[Renze]

GT2, my 7x12" band saw is definately faster than the angle grinder... I assume it depends on how dull the band is (whether you use a cooling pump or not means if it turns dull after cutting 4 tubes)

The main reason that i've bought a band saw instead of buying a cheaper chop saw was that i hate the noise, sparks/dust and smell of grinding. Your clothes stink like a pest when you've been grinding all day.

 

[GT2]

GT2, my 7x12" band saw is definately faster than the angle grinder... I assume it depends on how dull the band is (whether you use a cooling pump or not means if it turns dull after cutting 4 tubes)

The main reason that i've bought a band saw instead of buying a cheaper chop saw was that i hate the noise, sparks/dust and smell of grinding. Your clothes stink like a pest when you've been grinding all day.

Dont get me wrong, I use the heck out of my band saw. Mostly for flat plate brackets, thick solid steels, and short tubing.
The problem (especialy for production) is its a ***** loading large OD, heavy wall, 24' lengths of tubing on it by yourself.
With the chop saw everything stays on the floor, a few 4x4 blocks to space the tubing to the height of the chop saw and away you go!
The noise etc is real, however there are ways to deal with it.

 

[Renze]

The 500 kg electric chain winch hangs at a fixed point on a truss in my workshop. as soon as i have time, i want to make a swing arm for it.

A table with rollers on top also works great.

 

[GT2]

Well I got in a few hours of test fitting / visualization tonight.

Heres the front drive shaft. Its at a 27deg angle, Is that too steep?
I could lower the engine more to lessen the angle.
The rear drive shaft is at 15 deg.

Of course I had to test drive it!

 

[varmint]

Great project and play by play reportage! Those of us who just do simpler projects (maybe also lengthy, just not so involved) can get vicarious pleasure from checking in and seeing how you're doing. Have you thought about the non-motive aspects of this, like fenders and cowlings? Hard to imagine you will save any money, when the cost of materials and your time totals up... plus you are trying to do something that engineers at companies like Kubota have a history of having done hundreds of times, hopefully learning and improving every time. Still, this project is great training for... something.