Distributer removal

Chuck52 · Sep 15, 2006

I need to revive my old '91 F-150 so I can do the fall clean up chores. I've been told I might have a bad TFI module on the distributor and I need to check it. My Chiltons manual says to remove the distributor and check some resistances....no big deal. However, in reading about reinstalling the distributor it talks about checking the timing, rotating the engine by hand, etc. If I remove the distributor and don't rotate the crank or the distributor gear, can't I just stick the thing back in and assume the timing has not been changed? If that sounds ignorant it's becuase I am when it comes to these things. BTW, how do you rotate the engine by hand? Sure looks heavy to me!

Chuck

MrJimi · Sep 15, 2006

When you remove dist. check where the rotor is pointing and mark it with something like a felt tip and it should fall right in for you
Jim

JerryG · Sep 15, 2006

Mark the manifold and the dist. housing. Then mark where the rotor is turned on the dist. That will get you all most right. From my experience it will still need a timing light, but will be real close. Doing it that way you shouldn't get it a tooth off. If you do get it a tooth off, you will have to get the #1 piston on TDC before you can get it fixed. Make sure the engine doesn't turn any after it is taken out.

Chuck52 · Sep 15, 2006

Jim & Jerry,

Thanks. Sounds like I can't be too much worse off than I am anyway.

Chuck

texbaylea · Sep 15, 2006

It has been a while since I worked on a Ford but don't be susprised if the rotor turns as you pull the distributor. The drive gear is most probably helicaly cut and will rotate the shaft as it disingages. You need to mark the distributor housing where the rotor ends up pointing and go back in starting from that mark.

Vernon

Chuck52 · Sep 15, 2006

Thanks. I'll mark it every which way. If I can get the beast at least running, I'll take it in for a tune up. I'm just trying to avoid having to get it towed in only to get a big surprise for a repair bill.

Chuck

jpm · Sep 15, 2006

chuck if you want to change the module there is a special scoket to remove
the module,plus you can change it in the truck but you will have to rotate the dist.and be very carefull of the wires in the dist .

junkman104 · Sep 15, 2006

Hope this helps you.

Open Bowl Distributor

REMOVAL

1. Remove distributor cap and adapter. Position cap and wires aside.
2. Disconnect TFI wiring.
3. Remove distributor from engine using tool T82L-12270-A or equivalent to remove security-type hold-down bolt, if equipped.
4. Place distributor on workbench and remove 2 TFI module screws.
5. Pull right side of module down distributor mounting flange and then back up to disengage module terminals from connector in distributor base. Module may then be pulled toward flange and away from distributor.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to lift module from mounting surface before moving entire TFI module toward distributor flange, as pins at distributor/module connector will break otherwise.
INSTALLATION

1. Coat metal base plate of TFI ignition module with 1/32 inch thick layer of silicone grease D7AZ-19A331-A, or equivalent.
2. Place TFI module on distributor base mounting flange. Carefully position TFI module assembly toward distributor bowl and securely engage 3 distributor connector pins.
3. Install 2 TFI module mounting screws and torque to specification.
4. Install distributor on engine.
5. Install distributor cap and adapter.
6. Connect TFI wiring.
7. Check and, if necessary adjust engine timing.

Chuck52 · Sep 15, 2006

Thanks Junkman. That diagram is much more detailed than the one in my manual.

Chuck

RobertN · Sep 15, 2006

A lot of good points already.

The best thing is to get it top center on #1 when you start the project. It takes a few minutes to line everything up. Once it is done though, it should make the rest of the job easier.

To rotate the engine, get a socket with an extension on the bolt for the crank pulley. Turn it slowly with a breaker bar.

Someone mentioned the rotor may move as you slip the distributor out; it did on my 351W. Most Ford small blocks are the same that way.

My module went out on my old truck. It was easy to fix, but the prep work before pulling the distributor really made it easy.

Chuck52 · Sep 18, 2006

Robert,

Sounds good to me. Seems like I only get to do this stuff on the weekends, so I'll have a few days to think about it and get together anything I might need. For instance, I need to climb in the engine compartment to see if I should get some special tool to remove whatever holds the distributor on, since Junkman's note mentions T82L-12270-A, or equivalent. If it really requires a special tool some of the parts places loan those things out if you are buying a part from them.

Chuck

Chuck52 · Sep 25, 2006

Finally got the time to start on this Sunday. It turns out, as JPM noted, you can remove the TFI without removing the distributor......or you should be able to. I sew that I could remove the coil and access both screws holding the TFI on without even rotating the distributor. A 7/32" nut driver worked fine on one screw, but for some reason I can't get it to engage the other screw. I figure either the screw head has burrs, or maybe there's something in the hole keeping the socket from seating on the head of the screw. Anyway, I started to remove the distributor after marking the position of the rotor. I loosened the hold down bracket, but the distributor is still held on by something. Help! What's holding this thing on now? I can see what appears to be a possible set screw in the block where the distributor gear goes in, and it seems to be a hex maybe, but I didn't have the right size....possibly 5mm. Am I getting warm?

On the positive side, I got a lot of really good exercise crawling under the truck and walking arouind looking for the one hex key that seems to be missing from both of my metric sets.

Chuck

CharlieTR · Sep 25, 2006

What engine is that?
When I replaced my dist on 4.9 in-line 6, I also thought there was a set screw. Turns out I just had to pull like heck to get it out. That is just a dimple in the cast.
I was going to place the module too, but after finding out a rebuilt dist was only 45 bucks I just got a rebuilt one. Be very careful put it back in. I stripped the tie down bolt with ease when putting it back together. Ended up having to find a longer bolt, now there are only about two threads holding it in.

Also, if that is a 4.9 and you need to turn that motor, you can remove the 1 spark plug and look down the hole to see the top of the piston. When it is at the highest point that it TDC.

Chuck52 · Sep 25, 2006

Charlie,

As my old Grannie used to say, bless your heart! It is the same engine, and I was wondering how I was going to find TDC on number one since I hadn't been able to find the timing marks on the block. I guess I just didn't pull hard enough on the distributor to get it off. Since I often do the same thing you did, stripping screws and such, I was being careful. I'll give it a good yank when I can get back at it.

Where did you find a rebuilt distributor, with a TFI, that cheap? The cheapest TFI I've found is $32.

Chuck

CharlieTR · Sep 25, 2006

Well I might be wrong about the price, but I remember buying the module, and could not get it off the dist so I took it Orielly's and they couldn't get it off either. There was one of the darn pins that are compressed holding it in. Then I asked how much for the whole thing and I was suprised it was just a little more. But that was a few years ago on an '81 model.

Chuck52 · Sep 26, 2006

Charlie, the price has gone up at O'Reilly to a bit over $100 for the distributor with the TFI installed, but that's still a decent deal since the TFI alone is in the $30 range and I would guess the PIP is more than $20, plus there's a replaceable o-ring and stuff that probably should be changed if I rebuilt my old distributor. So I'm going with the rebuilt. Now for a real embarassing question: Where exactly do I grab on to turn the engine? I was assuming the shaft with the fan on it, but the fan is shrouded and it would be a pain to get to the nut there, even if it wasn't free turning like it seems it might be. There's a big hex nut behind the fan I can get with a box end. Is that the place? I'd like to see if the timing marks come close, but I can't even find the marks. I figure that might give me a clue as to whether I was getting the number one in the TDC for compression rather than for exhaust. Does that make sense? Can you tell I've never done this before?

Chuck

RobertN · Sep 26, 2006

Use the crank pulley. You'll need a socket, short extension, and a breaker bar. Put the socket on the nut holding the crank pulley to the crankshaft.

Look around the timing cover for the mark. You may need to get under the vehicle and slowly turn it over as you look, and clean if needed, the dampner behind the crank pully. If you get it nice and clean, you can run some chalk ver it to help highlight the timing mark/groove.

you may have to crawl underneath, turn it over a little, then look up top...