Disconnecting A FEL On A Ford 3000

Shepp · Aug 10, 2012

Hello everyone: I am a new member to this Forum. I recently purchased an old Ford 3000 diesel. Not sure of the year. I haven't quite deciphered the numbers on the engine block yet. She ran great all the way home which was about a 30 mile trip. Graded my driveway a few times with it then the clutch froze. Looks like I am going to have to split her. I tried all the tricks including soaking the clutch with brake fluid, but she still won't release. The biggest problem I have right now is dismantling the FEL. It is an old Freeman loader that attaches to the front of the engine block and the rear axle. I thought I could just release these bolts and back her out from the loader, but I quickly realized that the big vertical support arms would be in the way of the front wheels. Has anyone removed one of these loaders before? Am I going to have to dismantle the entire thing piece by piece or is there an easy way.
Thanks. Shepp

skylarkguy · Aug 10, 2012

It seems to me (I'm only speculating here) that you could disconnect the loader at the point of attachment at the rear axle. Then when you split it the back half would move backwards and the loader and front would stay stationary. Of course doing that on the dirt might be a challenge. Good luck and post lots of pictures

Soundguy · Aug 10, 2012

i think it's likely attacjed tot he front bolster and not the front of the engine block.

also.. the numbers on the engine block won't help you as much as the numbers on the trans bellhousing aft of the starter. there is a machined spot and 3 numbers... usually only 2 make it tot he machines spot.. and one may be in the rough...

Shepp · Aug 10, 2012

I considered just disconnecting the loader at the axle and leaving the front on, but it sure would make spitting the tractor harder with those support arms in the road. Since I am in the middle of the bush near my camp I was planning on building a solid floor with 2X6's layed flat side down and covered with 3/4" ply. I have seen this done before for temporary dance floors outside. I can put a pump jack on this.
Shepp

Shepp · Aug 10, 2012

Thanks Soundguy: The machined spot that you are talking about. Does it appear to be a 4" square with 2 holes in it? I have looked here, but could not see any numbers. The only numbers I have found are on the right side engine block. C5NN6015 T1 and another set 6W14. On the transmission housing they are C5NN7096 AA and R761966. The next time I am at the camp where the tractor is I will look closer at the machined spot aft of the starter.
Shepp

Soundguy · Aug 11, 2012

you are seeing raised casting numbers. we are looking for STAMPED in numbers on that bellhousing flange.. and yes.. it has bolt holes in the face..e tc..

Shepp · Aug 29, 2012

I checked out the machined spot for the numbers. After scraping away the dirt and grease I found them. 6M29 and B 061972.
Thanks Soundguy

Shepp · Aug 29, 2012

After looking things over. I be leave this is the best method. Just leave the front loader attached and disconnect the rear supports like you said. It was a bit of a pain with all the extra support arms in the way, but managed anyhow. Now I just have to get the drag links disconnected. They are not releasing.
Shepp

bucktaker · Aug 30, 2012

Shepp..If you havent done it already I had a freeman loader like that on a mf35... Best way to remove is to detach the loader arms at the pivot point, attache a chain or come along to to a post or tree. Raise the arm out of the pivot points. disconnect the hoses, Back the tractor out of the arms. Disassemble the Left and right supports from the front brackets, detach from the rear axle and set them off to the side.. did this many times by myself. Makes reassembly easier.

Good luck on the clutch sounds like a PP or fork issue

Shepp · Aug 30, 2012

Thanks Bucktaker: I have already started to split the tractor with the bucket on, but thanks for the advice. I will use it in the future if I ever need to replace the FEL. It was a pain getting the wiring, starter motor, hydraulic pump ect off with those support arms in the road, but after a few choice words I managed anyhow. My big problem now is the steering draglink arms. Cant seem to pop the ball joints off. I will attach a photo of some late night travelers at my camp where I have the tractor.

Shepp

Soundguy · Aug 30, 2012

pittman arm puller or tie rod end seperator. if the tie rods won't let go with a pickle fork or proper seperator.. just pull the sector arm off the sector shaft with a 2 jaw puller.. OR.. unbolt the steering box and lift it up a bit..

on those numbers.. you missed an important one. you got a Basildon SN and a most of a date code... you missed the model ID
6m29 is 1966 december, 29th.. there will be a ABC at the end for shift.

the model ID for a 66 will begin with a 3 for a 3000

for instance.. and ag 3000 before 4-68 that is diesel and has an 8spd with live pto would have the model ID # of:

31013C ( a very common build on a 3000 )

Shepp · Sep 1, 2012

Well I finally took advantage of the nice weather and some time off work to get this thing split. I left the loader on which actually came in handy to support the steering box since I couldn't get the draglinks disconnected from the steering arms. The hardest part was getting the starter motor off. There was one bolt between it and the engine which was a totally awkward spot. I managed to get a socket on it and give it a turn to loosen it enough so I could turn it with my fingers. This took quite a while. The ATV winch came in handy to pull the transmission away from the engine. The wife operated the winch while I watched out for any snags with the steering box and hydraulic manifold. The clutch was totally shot. The pressure plate had disintegrated and the rivets that held the old pads on it had scored deep gouges in the friction plate. The fly wheel looks like it is still in good shape though and no teeth are worn or missing. I am going to order a new clutch package along with a throw out bearing and a pilot bearing. Now comes the hard part. Putting it back together.
Shepp