Digging post holes

   / Digging post holes
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I went up and looked at Belltec's stuff. They have some really heavy duty equipment. I bought one a 6" auger and finished a hole I started yesterday. I broke a few shear bolts at first but after I got past the rock from yesterday the Belltec auger started working and found it's way through the rest of the rock. I tried another hole nearby and after an hour I was able to get down about 8-9 inches. This area just has hard clay with lots of buried rocks so I don't quite understand why I had soo much trouble. At least nothing broke except shear bolts. The cutting edges on the auger still look new. I plan to get a 9" Belltec auger tomorrow and eventually a Rhino PHD with hydraulic downfeed pressure. I am convinced that the TSC gear box is too lightweight for use on a lot of my land. I think the 9" Beltec auger has the same tooth configuration as the augers in your picture.

Belltec has a hydraulic power head that can be mounted on a 3PT PHD boom (like the Rhino unit) or attached to a FEL. I can't see how you could use the FEL since you would not be able to see where you are placing the bit. The smaller unit costs $1900 which is reasonable but still way too expensive for me.

I am convinced you get what you pay for when you you buy good tools. In this case I got far more than twice the auger for twice the price. I would say I more like 10 times the auger for twice the price. This thing has 3/8" thick flighting welded to a 1/4" thick tube versus 1/8" metal all around for the TSC auger.
 
   / Digging post holes #12  
Used my 12" auger for the first time today. Dug a hole for my Sunsetter flagpole. This PHD is great.
This after the Quickrete has been poured.
 

Attachments

  • 33-152191-MVC-020S.JPG
    33-152191-MVC-020S.JPG
    56 KB · Views: 591
   / Digging post holes #13  
I have a bud who uses his FEL Belltec auger all the time. He has a Ford construction tractor with FEL and a PHD. He also has a New Holland skid steer. He uses the FEL auger on both machines.

Here in North Texas we have places where we have lots of rock. A lot of his work is in those places. He likes using the FEL auger on the New Holland because he can pick up three thousand pounds in the loader and add that as down pressure

I do know all the manufacturers strongly discourage using a FEL auger assembly on a skid steer. I guess cause you're so close to the moving parts.

My Lowes auger motor requires fifteen to thirty gallons per minute. My JCB165HF gives out fourteen low side and twenty eight high side. The motor itself is the size of a five gallon bucket. It's a horse. I was told by the dealer it was too much for my machine but that hasn't been proven yet.
And if I do go to a larger machine I can keep the auger and bits.

What I'm wondering is what is happening to you and the tractor under these digging conditions. It's got to be hell spinning great and then locking up on a rock.

If you ever start feeling sorry about the situation consider what I personally know is the worst situation for digging post holes.

There are parts near the bottom of the foothills in southern California where you have lots of golf to melon sized river rocks in a sand. If you're digging holes in sand you have to water the hole to keep the walls from caving in. When you have the rocks too water doesn't help. The best way to dig it is to pick up your favorite set of regular post hole diggers and use them like chopsticks.

A tractor of any kind is gonna do nothing but make it worse.

Been there, done that. Wore out the shirt and through away the hat.
 
   / Digging post holes
  • Thread Starter
#14  
What I'm wondering is what is happening to you and the tractor under these digging
conditions. It's got to be hell spinning great and then locking up on a rock.


The PHD jerks around quite a bit when it starts hitting a rock towards the edge of the hole but it's effect is limited because of the 5/16" shear bolt which snaps quite readily. I went through about 7 or 8 of them today on the hole I finished up from yesterday. I am going to look into getting a clutch on my next PHD. It wastes a lot of time replacing these shear bolts although I have gotten pretty good at it. I did not have problems on 90% of the holes I have dug so far but I am moving out of the bottom land onto what are essentially rock ledges with a little dirt on them so I expect to have some problems on the set of holes.

If you ever start feeling sorry about the situation consider what I personally know is the
worst situation for digging post holes.


In a situation like this I think I would just use my backhoe to excavate where I wanted the hole and backfill around the post. I had a situation on the far side of my property where I had to run the fence down a solid limestone rock ledge for about 60 feet. I had to rent a jack hammer and use t-posts along the ledge and at the edge of the ledge was what looked like a buried pile of 2'x2'x6' rocks. I had to dig the rocks out with the backhoe until I hit the ledge again. Fortunately the ledge was 2' down so I had a post that is not buried very deep but it is surrounded by lots of large buried rocks that are not going anywhere. I notice that the old fence has lots of posts that are wired to large boulders to keep them upright because of they are sitting on solid rock. I am trying to avoid doing that.
 
   / Digging post holes #15  
I have a Hiliti TE75. That's a big hammer--drill. Over the years I've picked up quite a selection of bits. If you have access to one of these or something like it and a two inch bit and the boulders are large and solid enough to anchor to, well.

I've a solution for you. It's the way we anchor posts in slabs and also solid rock. We drill the hole, usually four to six inches deep. Then we use a product called Quickrok or another is Pourstone. They are a hydraulic cement. It's a special cement that hardens quickly and locks your post in so it's actually as strong as the material you're anchored to.

Back in the old days before they came up with all these trick hammer in anchors we used to use hydraulic cement all the time. If you needed a half inch stud to mount say a compressor to a slab what you did was drill a three quarter inch hole. Blow it out to remove the dust and then pour in some hydraulic cement and then stuff in a piece of half inch all thread. Half an hour later you could lift the slab with your all thread.

You can get this stuff at just about any real fence company supply house.

Another answer for rock is a rotary hammer. They're like jackhammers but you have to buy your bits. I carry a couple on the truck for those days when nothing else will do. I go down and rent a compressor with a rotary hammer, screw on the right bit and it's a done deal quickly.

Something else I've found that works in your situation is I have five and seven foot chisel bits for a chipping hammer. When I hit the rock like you're getting into where it's layered I'll sometimes have a compressor with the chipping hammer. With the long bits I can have the chipping hammer where it's comfortable to operate while the bit is down there where it's needed.
 
   / Digging post holes
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I used Hiliti demolition hammer on one hole for a t-post where the rock was at the surface. It worked pretty good but I got a bit stuck and could not pull it out using my backhoe. It took an hour to dig it out with another bit. On a lot of the holes where I am at now I can easily bore down to around 3 feet where I hit rock. The Hiliti bits are not long enough for this. Usually I can break the rocks up using digging bars but today I hit a hard rock that just took the point right off my digging bar. I just settled for a 3' hole in this case. I thought about buying the Hiliti hammer but the price was too much. I saw a Bosch unit for half the price but it is still to much and bits are not long enough.

I don't like to use cement with wood posts because they shrink and leave a gap where water can get between the post and the concrete and rot the post but I will if there is no other solution. Of course it looks like we have seen the last of water here. It has only rained a couple of times this year. We have had no rain at all in April and May which are our wettest months.

I bought a heavy duty PHD and two more Belltec augers today but they are dirt augers so I still have to do the hard work with the digging bars. At least I don't have to worry about breaking the bits so easily. I almost bought a down pressure attachment for the PHD but decided it was overkill. I then worked for 3 hours on one hole and in that time I managed to get maybe 6 inches farther before I gave up and settled for what I had.
 
   / Digging post holes #17  
Doggone it Don I can feel your pain.

Describe or link to your new augers.

Here's why I'd like to look at them. I've observed that when I hit the limestone the pilot bit goes right on down with out much of a problem. Let me know if you've found this to be the case.

A bud of mine who has a foundation company has a one and five eighths hex shaft twelve inch rock attachment. The way it's made might interest you. Instead of the usual pilot or fishtail with a flat area where the replaceable teeth are it has a couple of teeth. Then farther up a bit is another couple of teeth and so on until it's twelve inches wide. Sorta along the principal of a unibit if you're familiar with them.

If you put together my observation about the fishtail or pilot going in easy along with the unibit concept you might find something that will work with low down pressure.

I'm sure you're well aware of this but I'll remind you. There's a science to working a digging bar just like there's tricks to being efficient with a sledge hammer.

Most folks just slam the bar down into the hole. That's a lotta energy, throwing it down and then picking it back up again. Where I've had some success is I try to find a fissure or just wear one spot down and through. This really works with layered rock like it sounds like you have.

Then I pick and poke the edges of that hole into the hole until the hole is the size I can live with.

There's a little psychology to this method too believe it or not. The first thing is bouncing off the bottom and seeing just how much has got to break is very discouraging. But trying to just get a hole through means you're taking a little step. Then breaking off the edges into the hole is more little steps that are venturing into the land of the possible.

I can't tell you the times where I've walked over to a hole where a man was cussing and raving and wearing hisself and my patience thin only to break through with a couple of well placed hits.

It's watching the rock and when it shows a weakness jumping on it like it's an off colored stepchild that stutters when skeered.

One time a bud who was in AA came over with a nice young man who'd just got out of jail and part of his restrictions was attending AA and getting a job. Bud hit me up to give the kid a job.

First day out I was setting some posts around one of them bowels of hell apartment complexes where the drugs and such are so bad. The general contractor had pulled all the old posts with a tractor, concrete and all. I asked him about the old posts and he told me I could have them if I wanted them. They were eight foot C channel posts you see along the interstates, great posts and the price was right.

So I put the young man breaking off the concrete. They had been in three foot by one foot holes and it had been redimixed concrete, good stuff.

First one I took out my sixteen pound sledge with it's little kicker handle which makes it twenty two pounder. I call it papasan.

I hit the post about four whacks and the concrete split in two and I lifted the post out. Young man wanted that hammer. That was easy and he could excerise too.

I was working about fifty yards away from him. I watched him out of the corner of my eye. He slammed, he banged, he did it all but right. After about fifteen minutes he came over where I was at to get a drink and ask if it was okay to try another one cause that one wasn't gonna break.

I walked back over, hit it about three times, lifted the post out from the split concrete and handed the hammer back to him without a word and walked off.

This happened three more times. He's wail on that thing like it had dinged his pickemup and finally give up to have me walk up and hit it a couple of times and it'd split like a cedar stump.

When he was standing there with his tongue hanging out and his tail tucked so tightly between his legs that you had to look twice so see it I showed him my secret. I've learned they have to be ready to learn if you're gonna teach.

It's very rarely that the post is gonna be dead in the middle of the concrete. So you roll it to where you're hitting the thinnest side. You start at the bottom and work up watching for that crack you feel more than see. Sometimes you have to roll it ninety degrees for a kicker whack but not often.

He never did really get it but he did get some study time. And I do have to admit I've seen fewer people happier when the concrete broke. He knew he'd done something.

That same principle goes for working the digging bar. It's been my experience in this layered limestone that just about every hole has a spot where the rock is weaker than it is elsewhere. If you can find that then you're halfway home.

BTW when I have to set a post in a concrete slab I use the little hole and chip in method. I'll take my quick saw and cut a square just a tad bigger than my auger diameter. I'll take the Hilti with say a two inch bit and drill all the way through. Then I'll change over to a chisel bit and start breaking the edges off into that center hole.

I'm just lazier than the average bear, luckier too.
 
   / Digging post holes
  • Thread Starter
#18  
The Belltec web site is www.belltec.net. I got the SDA (Standard Dirt Auger) augers because the engineer at Belltec told me that nothing would really work on rock without a digger that could apply a lot of down pressure. That would mean spending at least $2000 for a FEL mount hydraulic unit plus at least $600 to $1000 for a rock auger. The Rhino SPHD 3PT digger has a $300 down pressure atachment but it only applies 300 to 500 pounds of pressure so I did not think this would really make that much difference. The salesman that I bought the PHD from told me that the down pressure would just cause the bits on my auger to get hot and wear them out quicker. I have been tempted to buy one of the Belltec 6" RAD augers for $700 and make an adapter for my PHD and see what it would do if I add some weight to it. My fear is that I would just break something or go through a lot of shear pins real quick.

I have noticed that the color of the limestone makes a difference with the lighter color being much softer than the darker colors. These dirt augers will not cut through any of the limestone but it is relatively easy to chip away at the softer limestone and create the fissures that let the auger continue to break it up. I always go after the natural weak spots with my digging bars like you do but on a hole like I had yesterday I could not find one. This was a solid hard rock that made sparks when I hit it with the bar and I think it must be pretty thick. My attitude about how to do this fence has changed from wanting to pull all the old posts and set new ones in 4' holes to keeping any of the old posts that look solid enough to hold staples and feel like they are set well enough.

Fortunately, once I get this fence finished I should not have to mess with it again for a long time. Most of the cross fences that I will have to build will be in bottom land with deep soil so they will be easy.

Anyway, I think the exercise that I am getting from using the digging bars has to be good for my health except for agravating the carpal tunnel syndrone in my hands. I notice that my hands now get numb when I am driving or using this keyboard and I have to exercise them very frequently.
 
   / Digging post holes #19  
I know about the carpul tunnel. I went to the doctor a couple of years ago for pains in my shoulders, neck, and hands being numb. He took Xrays of my neck and then wanted to know if I'd ever hurt it. He said that I had severe calcium deposits and it was a wonder I wasn't more crippled up than I am. But to be sure he sent me for some kind of test where they hook up electrodes between your hands and arms.

That doctor and my doctor got together and told me I had severe carpul tunnel problems and needed immediate surgery both hands.

I explained to them there was about five things on this body no one was going to cut on, hands was on the list. I figure if I wear them out then that's natural and okay. But some yahoo slip and cripple me I'd spend the rest of my days in jail.

I've got you some pictures of auger types for you to ponder over.

This one is of the rock attachment Little Beaver sells. With the hydraulic Beaver like I have the only down pressure is what two hundred pounds of pure t orneriness can apply. But I had had some success with this attachment on soft limestone and I have found it quite good going through pavement. And it is good when the clay is dry and harder than a mother in laws heart.
 

Attachments

  • 33-152939-MVC-003F.JPG
    33-152939-MVC-003F.JPG
    140.3 KB · Views: 547
   / Digging post holes #20  
The problem with the Little Beaver pattern is it's hell on you and the equipment if you're hitting intermittent rock like what you're in. If you're going along fine cutting like crazy and then you hit a rock and it doesn't give then it seems to be a harder hit than with some of the other options.

This one is on the end of an eight inch Bayshore. It's a Pengo or Pengo clone and it works great for all around. Please note the wear on the teeth and the fishtail. This belongs to a bud who does foundation work.

An interesting note about most foundation repair jobs. They are only required to go however deep the engineer specifies or to rock, which ever is first. So for them to hit rock means life just got easier.

Most Pengo heads I've seen only have half as many teeth and they're not arranged in quite this tight a configuration. The only thing I can thing of is this auger is made to work with a machine that can only get about seven hundred pounds down pressure.
 

Attachments

  • 33-152942-MVC-004F.JPG
    33-152942-MVC-004F.JPG
    136.4 KB · Views: 499

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2022 Quick Attach Brush Buster - Heavy-Duty Skid Steer Cutter for Brush and Overgrowth (A52128)
2022 Quick Attach...
71059 (A49346)
71059 (A49346)
NEW 2025 Load Trail 83IN X 14IN Single Axle Utility Trailer (A52128)
NEW 2025 Load...
2014 UTILITY 53X102 DRY VAN TRAILER (A50046)
2014 UTILITY...
1985 International X Con Semi (A50514)
1985 International...
2020 CHEVROLET Z71 TEXAS EDITION TRUCK (A51406)
2020 CHEVROLET Z71...
 
Top