Digging in a power Line.

[lakngulf]

On my CK20HST, I run it at 2000-2200rpms for backhoe work since any higher makes the swing action too fast and it does not add power at all, it just hits the relief valve quicker. For loader work, I run it at around 2500-2750rpms depending on task. I try and run the rpms as low as I can without bogging the engine. I tend to use the loader while driving so I keep the rpms higher then necessary but never needed more then 2750rpms (540pto rpms). This should be true for most tractors and not just the CK20HST.

Dmace, that seems high for loader work. I tend to stay around 2000 for the actual FEL work, and then use the foot throttle for a little faster travel speed, from loading to dumping area. I may give the higher RPM a try for my next jof.

 

[the fox 1940]

Sorry if this is a bit off topic but what is the average R.P.M you run your Kioti at for backhoe work and whats is the max R.P.M that you run your Kioti at for heaver work?

I run my backhoe at 1500 RPM and when I am driving the tractor I run it at 2000 RPM. This is what I understand from all the reading I have done on these tractors ,which is to run them around 2000 + as you won't get the full effect of the tractor and also to keep the pump loaded so it can run effectively.. I find that around 1500 the Hoe works good and seems to have enough power to do what I need it to do without jumping all over the place.
The Fox

 

[Dmace]

Dmace, that seems high for loader work. I tend to stay around 2000 for the actual FEL work, and then use the foot throttle for a little faster travel speed, from loading to dumping area. I may give the higher RPM a try for my next jof.

As I said, this is for an HST tractor. No foot throttle and 2000rpms is really the minimum you want to run at for HST machines. At 2000, I find that using the loader to dig into a pile while moving forward into the pile bogs the engine too much. Around 2500rpms seems to be the sweet spot.

 

[miramadar]

As I said, this is for an HST tractor. No foot throttle and 2000rpms is really the minimum you want to run at for HST machines. At 2000, I find that using the loader to dig into a pile while moving forward into the pile bogs the engine too much. Around 2500rpms seems to be the sweet spot.

2500 huh? I've only had my CK27 gear for a year and I seem to always have it right at 2000 rpm. I have bogged it down some digging into a pile, but I just figured I was being too hard on it. I'll try 2500 rpm and see if that improves the performance any. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Dmace]

I'll try 2500 rpm and see if that improves the performance any. Thanks for the advice.

It will be a whole new tractor! Keep in mind when they rate the HP of these machines, it's done at the engine's "rated speed" which for your tractor is 2700rpms. So at 2000 rpms I wouldn't doubt if that engine was only putting out 20-24HP instead of the 28HP it's rated for.

 

[the fox 1940]

It will be a whole new tractor! Keep in mind when they rate the HP of these machines, it's done at the engine's "rated speed" which for your tractor is 2700rpms. So at 2000 rpms I wouldn't doubt if that engine was only putting out 20-24HP instead of the 28HP it's rated for.

I hear your cry ... I'll take that under advisement. I'll see how much better it will work..
The Fox.

 

[lk30]

Thanks every one for there reply and i guess i should of said that my tractor is an lk30

 

[DK35vince]

Sorry if this is a bit off topic but what is the average R.P.M you run your Kioti at for backhoe work and whats is the max R.P.M that you run your Kioti at for heaver work?

On my DK 35 I run 2000-2100 RPM for backhoe work.
I use the foot throttle for loader work. I run anywhere from idle to full throttle depending on what I want or need. I pay no attention to RPM.
Rototilling- full throttle.

 

[the fox 1940]

I made cleats for mine out of big C-channel. Cut C-channel to size of pads. Welded ends on to close them in, like a box. Then drilled holes to match the outrigger feet. The work quite well. They do hold mud sometimes. But, they were essentially free. Not as nice as the big foots though.

You don't happen to have a picture of the cleats you made for your outrigger feet kicking around some where ?
I think I'm going to build a set.
Thanks
The Fox

 

[mx5guy]

Just a note the HST models are fluid driven, and we have no foot throttle, just a rocker foot pedal for flow control for forwards and backwards, which equals speed in either direction, if RPM is high enough to move tractor, so if using Fell you would have to keep the RPM痴 up there.

How much are the Big Foot ?

 

[Dmace]

How much are the Big Foot ?

My dealer automatically puts them on every backhoe purchase so I am not sure the actual cost but here is a post from fastpat that put them on his Kioti backhoe. This is from 2006 but he said they were about $65 each.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/.../77410-backhoe-stabilizer-pads-installed.html

 

[Gil Case]

I picked up mine from Rick for about $60 each (don't hold me or Rick to the price but thereabouts)- well worthwhile. I tried angle irons etc to no avail. Go during Rick's owner appreciation day and you can get food and drink for no additional fee.

 

[Gittyup]

You don't happen to have a picture of the cleats you made for your outrigger feet kicking around some where ?
I think I'm going to build a set.
Thanks
The Fox

I'll try to take a few photos for you tonight.

 

[Gittyup]

Here's my freebie feet.

 

[the fox 1940]

Here's my freebie feet.

I made up some angle Iron 8.5 long x 2inch and 3\8 thick and drilled the holes in the angle iron and bolted them on the pads with 1\2 inch bolts, I thought I'll try this little experiment to see if it will work.. I went back in the field and started pulling out trees and alders and that tractor never moved.
So I am quite happy with the way it worked. I would rather have the tractor move around a bit rather then put a lot of strain on the outriggers and bust something because I have it anchored so tight it couldn't move. I do seem to have a bad case of "Metal Sympathy".....
The Fox

 

[mx5guy]

Thanks for Info, locally they want $69 each, would not mind seing pictures of the Fox setup. May also fabricate so more input equals better design.

Thanks Larry

 

[J_J]

Some info you might can use.

Hyd pressure is based on pump design, and the load on the BH cylinders, and will determine the pressure, and if you are working the cylinders to the extreme and the reliefs are going off, and the engine is lugging, then you are using your max force, as allowed by the relief valves.. The increased rpm of the engine/pump will only allow you to work faster, by pumping more GPM's.

If you have the option, to adjust the relief pressure, you will get some more power.

A 3 in cyl, 1.5 in shaft, 2500 psi, force is 17,671 lbs. For every 100 psi increase, you gain 700 lbs of force. If you adjust pressure from 2500 to 3000, you gain 3500 lbs of force.

Your primary limitation will be your tractor hyd pump psi rating.

 

[Gittyup]

I made up some angle Iron 8.5 long x 2inch and 3\8 thick and drilled the holes in the angle iron and bolted them on the pads with 1\2 inch bolts, I thought I'll try this little experiment to see if it will work.. I went back in the field and started pulling out trees and alders and that tractor never moved.
So I am quite happy with the way it worked. I would rather have the tractor move around a bit rather then put a lot of strain on the outriggers and bust something because I have it anchored so tight it couldn't move. I do seem to have a bad case of "Metal Sympathy".....
The Fox

I thought about using angle iron. But, the C-channel is probably a little stronger, and it's mostly one piece. Probably just like you, I used what I had sitting around. I might weld some teeth on to them for just a little more bite.

 

[the fox 1940]

I thought about using angle iron. But, the C-channel is probably a little stronger, and it's mostly one piece. Probably just like you, I used what I had sitting around. I might weld some teeth on to them for just a little more bite.

I was going to use channel Iron only I could not find any lying around cheap .. So I used Angle Iron and I am supprised at the differenence in the
way the tractor stays put. I was out digging today and I never had the tractor pulling me into the hole I was digging like before.
But yes by all means Channel Iron would be better for sure. Being a penisoner I have to conserve. LoL

Now I have a question : Where do I go and look for the pressure relief value on my CK 30 HST ( 2005 ) tractor for the backhoe pressure.?. I could probably find it if I was to go out and start looking but you guys could save me the time in looking for it. Can I set it a little higher then what it is set for now ? What is the Maximum you can set it too ?
The Fox.

 

[J_J]

Make up a hyd test gage. Put a tee in the input hose to the FEL valve. Gage plugs into the tee, or plug the gage into one of the QD's.

You need to know what pressure your tractor is designed for. If your BH has a lower pressure than the tractor, then adjust it about 50 psi below the max pressure of the BH. Post a picture of the FEL valve, and the BH valve, front back and sides. It is possible that the one relief valve on the FEL could do all the relieving. If the BH pressure capability is equal to the tractor pressure, set the FEL relief valve about 50 psi below the hyd pump max pressure. Set the BH pressure the same as the FEL relief. That would be as close as you want to go.