Diesel Fuel Transfer Tank

[RookieWelder]

So, I just picked up a 100-gallon Better Built transfer tank and a 12-volt pump at Northern Tool today. I'm going to do what I've seen other folks do, and mount the tank on a pallet so I can lift it in and out of the truck with the pallet forks on my tractor. I finished getting the pump all plumbed into the tank this afternoon and I'll attach the tank to a pallet tomorrow.

It just struck me - with this being a new tank, I have no idea if it is leak-free or not. I hope it is; but hope isn't a plan, and I don't want to find out the hard way that it leaks and end up losing 100 gallons of diesel fuel. The cost and the unbelievable clean-up hassle is more than I want to deal with if I can avoid it.

My first thought was to fill the tank with water to check for leaks. But, assuming it passes, I'll have a brand-new fuel tank that has been filled with water. Getting all of the water out before filling it the first time would be a PIA, and my objective is to try to keep water out of my diesel fuel in the first place.

My next thought was to put 10 gallons of fuel in it from Jerry cans that I have on hand and check for leaks that way. If it is leaking, I can pump the 10 gallons out of the tank back into the Jerry cans.

Does anyone have any thoughts about any reasonable means of testing the tank, or am I over-thinking this and worrying needlessly?

Thanks,

Dwight

 

[Hay Dude]

So, I just picked up a 100-gallon Better Built transfer tank and a 12-volt pump at Northern Tool today. I'm going to do what I've seen other folks do, and mount the tank on a pallet so I can lift it in and out of the truck with the pallet forks on my tractor. I finished getting the pump all plumbed into the tank this afternoon and I'll attach the tank to a pallet tomorrow.

It just struck me - with this being a new tank, I have no idea if it is leak-free or not. I hope it is; but hope isn't a plan, and I don't want to find out the hard way that it leaks and end up losing 100 gallons of diesel fuel. The cost and the unbelievable clean-up hassle is more than I want to deal with if I can avoid it.

My first thought was to fill the tank with water to check for leaks. But, assuming it passes, I'll have a brand-new fuel tank that has been filled with water. Getting all of the water out before filling it the first time would be a PIA, and my objective is to try to keep water out of my diesel fuel in the first place.

My next thought was to put 10 gallons of fuel in it from Jerry cans that I have on hand and check for leaks that way. If it is leaking, I can pump the 10 gallons out of the tank back into the Jerry cans.

Does anyone have any thoughts about any reasonable means of testing the tank, or am I over-thinking this and worrying needlessly?

Thanks,

Dwight

Ye have little faith.
Just fill it, they’re factory tested. It’ll hold.

 

[LittleBill21]

just pressure test it with air

 

[mrmikey]

Like LB said above, couple pounds of air or put a gallon or so of diesel in and slosh it around if you're able to do that. If there's any holes, it'll weep out. Worst thing is tho, if the tank is painted, it'll have any pinholes filled................M

 

[3Ts]

Like LB said above, couple pounds of air or put a gallon or so of diesel in and slosh it around if you're able to do that. If there's any holes, it'll weep out. Worst thing is tho, if the tank is painted, it'll have any pinholes filled................M

Be sure it's only a couple pounds of air, they're not designed to take a lot of pressure.

Water weighs ~8# / gallon, diesel weighs ~7# / gallon. Each foot of vertical depth of water is .43 psi, so there's very little pressure the tank has to with stand.

 

[workinonit]

Good luck with all that. Just fill the tank up. That thing is probably not gonna hold any air pressure.

 

[repete]

just pressure test it with air

This could be a bad idea. When the drum is full the only "pressure" in it would be at the base and that would only be 2# PSI at the most of the fuel. Any more than that could potentially destroy the drum.
To calculate the pressure of WATER due to head take the feet of height of the water and divide by 2.304. That will give you the PSI pressure in the drum at the base due to head.

 

[newbury]

Does anyone have any thoughts about any reasonable means of testing the tank, or am I over-thinking this and worrying needlessly?

Confirm a few facts -
1. Brand new tank
2. Openings you can easily seal
3. You've got pretty decent hearing
If yes to all three - I'd just blow into it real hard. Maybe tape off one of the fill holes with a tube sticking out you could blow into. If there are leaks you should be able to hear them or notice the decline in pressure.
Make sure to compensate for any caps designed to "breathe".

 

[RookieWelder]

Thanks to all for sharing their thoughts!

I ended up putting 5 gallons of fuel in the tank and tipping it to and fro with the pallet forks on my tractor. There was no leaking observed, so I put it back in the bed of my truck and went to the filling station. I decided to put 50 gallons in, since that should be about what I'll use between now and the fall. I'll get more fuel if I run out or when they switch over to putting winter additives in the diesel.

Thanks once again to everyone who took the time to write up a response to me. It is much appreciated.

Dwight

 

[RookieWelder]

I'm not gonna lie - it hurt pretty bad. I found a place close to my farm that has diesel at $5.37. The pumps were set to shut down automatically at $125. I did it twice (yikes!).

 

[hosspuller]

I have virtually the same setup. I have a battery charged by a solar panel.

Point is: you'll need power to the pump in any case. Separate battery or vehicle battery...I used Anderson connectors for the power cord. I got tired of messing with clamps or terminals every time I filled the tank. The Anderson connectors maintain polarity (If done right initially)

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb50-50amp

 

[Topzide]

If you ever need to check for leaks, get a 2" pipe plug and a 2" plastic barrel bung. Put pipe plug in one opening and install tire valve stem in plastic bung. Install bung in other opening and add 2 - 3 psi of air. Spray a soap and water mix along all seams and around openings. Did this on mine before repainting to confirm no repairs needed. So far so good. Tank was made in 2008 that I bought in 2013. Had two paint jobs done on it since I've had it.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

So, I just picked up a 100-gallon Better Built transfer tank and a 12-volt pump at Northern Tool today. I'm going to do what I've seen other folks do, and mount the tank on a pallet so I can lift it in and out of the truck with the pallet forks on my tractor. I finished getting the pump all plumbed into the tank this afternoon and I'll attach the tank to a pallet tomorrow.

It just struck me - with this being a new tank, I have no idea if it is leak-free or not. I hope it is; but hope isn't a plan, and I don't want to find out the hard way that it leaks and end up losing 100 gallons of diesel fuel. The cost and the unbelievable clean-up hassle is more than I want to deal with if I can avoid it.

My first thought was to fill the tank with water to check for leaks. But, assuming it passes, I'll have a brand-new fuel tank that has been filled with water. Getting all of the water out before filling it the first time would be a PIA, and my objective is to try to keep water out of my diesel fuel in the first place.

My next thought was to put 10 gallons of fuel in it from Jerry cans that I have on hand and check for leaks that way. If it is leaking, I can pump the 10 gallons out of the tank back into the Jerry cans.

Does anyone have any thoughts about any reasonable means of testing the tank, or am I over-thinking this and worrying needlessly?

Thanks,

Dwight

You may be over-thinking this; but even if so, the 10 gallon at a clip test is probably a logical way to do the test--sort of painful; but it'll work and cause minimal damage if you should find a leak.

 

[Crazydad]

I have the same tank from tractor supply, it was dented and needs paint around the dents. it has no leaks but when I shined a light inside and saw some rust at the bottom. the diesel should stop that. I built a pallet type of cart that fits my forks. When it’s on the forks the power cord on the 15 gpm pump makes it to the tractor. I can power it with a lawn mower battery too which is light and easy to handle.

 

[JRH02]

I'm not gonna lie - it hurt pretty bad. I found a place close to my farm that has diesel at $5.37. The pumps were set to shut down automatically at $125. I did it twice (yikes!).

I was thinking the same thing. This would be a terrible time to fill a bulk tank.

BTW, unless you are going to use the fuel on the road you should try to find a place to buy red diesel. I get it right from the distributor. We're in the PNW and the state fuel taxes are really high.

 

[Mart5130]

I was thinking the same thing. This would be a terrible time to fill a bulk tank.

BTW, unless you are going to use the fuel on the road you should try to find a place to buy red diesel. I get it right from the distributor. We're in the PNW and the state fuel taxes are really high.

At my local farmers CO-OP in Western TN they have red diesel but signage says illegal to put in a container- ie has to go right into tractor-

 

[wamendt]

So, I just picked up a 100-gallon Better Built transfer tank and a 12-volt pump at Northern Tool today. I'm going to do what I've seen other folks do, and mount the tank on a pallet so I can lift it in and out of the truck with the pallet forks on my tractor. I finished getting the pump all plumbed into the tank this afternoon and I'll attach the tank to a pallet tomorrow.

It just struck me - with this being a new tank, I have no idea if it is leak-free or not. I hope it is; but hope isn't a plan, and I don't want to find out the hard way that it leaks and end up losing 100 gallons of diesel fuel. The cost and the unbelievable clean-up hassle is more than I want to deal with if I can avoid it.

My first thought was to fill the tank with water to check for leaks. But, assuming it passes, I'll have a brand-new fuel tank that has been filled with water. Getting all of the water out before filling it the first time would be a PIA, and my objective is to try to keep water out of my diesel fuel in the first place.

My next thought was to put 10 gallons of fuel in it from Jerry cans that I have on hand and check for leaks that way. If it is leaking, I can pump the 10 gallons out of the tank back into the Jerry cans.

Does anyone have any thoughts about any reasonable means of testing the tank, or am I over-thinking this and worrying needlessly?

Thanks,

Dwight

I have a similar set up for 100 gallon metal tank that I obtained. Problem is the slosh when you’re driving back from the fuel point. Thought about putting some baffles in the tank, but hell, it was free. May just try inflating tire tube in the top to keep slosh down.
I just ratchet strapped mine to a pallet.

 

[JRH02]

At my local farmers CO-OP in Western TN they have red diesel but signage says illegal to put in a container- ie has to go right into tractor-

Something doesn't sound right. Or maybe the Coop's delivery fuel delivery service needs more customers.

 

[Number15]

Something doesn't sound right. Or maybe the Coop's delivery fuel delivery service needs more customers.

I think in TN you need to have a tax card from the state to put it in containers/tanks. At least that's what I am figuring out. My coop sells red diesel with the tax applied unless you have the card.

 

[hosspuller]

I have a similar set up for 100 gallon metal tank that I obtained. Problem is the slosh when you’re driving back from the fuel point. Thought about putting some baffles in the tank, but hell, it was free. May just try inflating tire tube in the top to keep slosh down.
I just ratchet strapped mine to a pallet.

If you fill the tank, "slosh" is minimized. Don't recommend putting a rubber tire tube in the diesel either.