A thought. Ask if they have shop manual pages that show removal/instal of that fuel tank. Also the torque specs for the bolts that hold it in place. If the second tank develops cracks you don't want them saying that you over tighten the bolts.
Not sure if the inserts caused the tank to fail by being overtorqued or if the way the tank was mounted caused it to fail by flexing and vibration and torsion on those bolts but you could possibly make a metal plate with holes that are tight tolerance that line up exactly with the insert holes in the tank. This metal plate would take the stress off the inserts from vibration and torsion and flexing, but it still wouldnt help you if the inserts are twisting and cracking tank due to mounting torque. You could always mount them with light torque and use loctite to hold them in..
A thought. Ask if they have shop manual pages that show removal/instal of that fuel tank. Also the torque specs for the bolts that hold it in place. If the second tank develops cracks you don't want them saying that you over tighten the bolts.
I have the shop manual however there's very little information regarding the fuel system to include the tanks but I'm in full agreement they need to be torqued properly to prevent future finger pointing.
Thanks,
Chris
Actually I like this idea. I could fab some brackets that would wrap around the entire tank and attach at the bracket rather than use the tank inserts.
Thanks,
Chris
Most of the tanks mounted under the operators platform are done this way.
Two straps around the plastic tanks with a piece of rubber to isolate between the strap and tank.
I'd keep pestering the selling dealer. Hope they come through for you.
I'd only try this once the new tank is in hand. If you don't have to send the old tank back, before installing the new tank, I'd try to plastic weld the cracks. Take soldering iron and melt the plastic on itself. Not sure you'd fix it completely under the brass fittings, but might seal it up 97% and make it useable for a while.
I doubt that you will find any torque specs. listed anywhere, for fuel tank mounting, on any tractor.
The idea of not using the factory mounting tabs at all, seems like the best one.
Flexing of those tabs at the tank attach points is likely your issue.
Making straps to go around the tank would seem to be the best idea.
Tell them to take a fuel tank out of a tractor on the lot..
If you think you might have fuel supply issues after relocating the tank, there are electric lift pumps. Just hook them up to the ignition and they click away.I’ve given a generic tank a thought...problem is mounting location. The only location that’s not going to require substantial tank modification is a tank which hangs by the cab step. I’d have to fab up brackets but brackets are a whole lots easier than tank mods or a full fab. Other issue is fuel draw...current tank is drawn from the bottom via gravity. I’ve also considered fab’ing up my own tank from aluminum. I have the equipment to cut and weld it..the time it would require is questionable.

If you think you might have fuel supply issues after relocating the tank, there are electric lift pumps. Just hook them up to the ignition and they click away.
They are easily available.View attachment 683901
This is a brand new tractor right?..
It’s a brand new 2019. Just purchased it late Dec 2020.
IF it was mine I would drop the tractor back at the dealer. Sad I hope it works out for you..
That has also crossed my mind...selling dealer is over 10 hrs away but would be worth the trip if necessary.
Thanks,
Chris
I WOULD TAKE IT BACK....NOW!