Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings

[deezler]

I agree that gutters wont stop snow from sliding. They may only delay it slightly.

You can absolutely pull snow off gravel. My entire driveway and garage approach is gravel also. Just keep your blade an inch above ground if you need to.

 

[Pettrix]

I realize that it would be one more expense, but I would think about paving the apron/slope into the garage to keep things cleaner, and help dealing with any snow dumps.

All the best,

Peter

Yes, a concrete apron and driveway would be best.

I will post the GoFundMe link soon:

 

[Pettrix]

 

[Pettrix]

Got my variance the begining of June for my 28X28 detached garage with a half storage loft above. Needed a variance as I am on a corner lot in arg. zoning. Town gave the ok for 10ft from property line instead of 60ft. Decided on Circle B barn co. in Lancaster, MA for the design and build. Survey got done mid Sept. Got building permit in mid Oct. Hired my own excavator and electrican. Excavator came on Nov 3rd.

Will it be a steel building? Insulated?

 

[Pettrix]

Last night temps dropped to 26F but inside the garage it was at 68F. The ICF is doing it's job. Concrete is very slow to change due to the insulated thermal mass so the temperature fluctuations inside are very slow, even without any heat source inside. ICF works best in high desert climates with vast diurnal swings, when temps swing 40 degrees from 70F in the afternoon to 30F by morning.

Regarding lighting. The garage is 1,200 sqft and I am planning on doing LED ceiling lights. The plan is to install 16 sets of lights (4 rows of 4 hanging lights). The total Lumens will be at 89,200 Lumens with 40,000 of those Lumens being where the workbenches and tool benches will be. That row will have 4 sets of lets at 10,000 Lumens per light, the remaining 12 set of lights will be 4,100 Lumens per light, to give me the 49,200 Lumens. That will give me 74.3 Lumens per square foot of space.

Is that adequate? I will eventually add drywall to the walls and paint it a bright glossy white, which helps a lot to reflect the light off the walls.

 

[newbury]

That will give me 74.3 Lumens per square foot of space.

Is that adequate?

Face it - you only need light to see.
I've about 2,500 sq ft of enclosed shed that required new lighting. Ceiling heights where I fasten lights range from 16' down to 8'. The "old" lights were mostly twin tube 60 watt - 96" - T12 - Single Pin (Fa8) Base. And probably 50% or more of the ballasts were burnt out.
At first I tried some T8's, to expensive. Then I tried some 8' LED replacements, ok but still a pain.
I decided to remain flexible, during Covid I bought LOTS of 4' long LED single and double tube fixtures, usually paying between $6 to $8 a fixture in packs of 8 or 10, each giving off 4 to 5,000 lumens. I've got them all over the place and think I've only had 4 or 5 die.
Easy to hang, easy to daisy chain, easy to move. If I need more lumens usually I can just daisy chain in another fixture.

 

[ponytug]

Last night temps dropped to 26F but inside the garage it was at 68F. The ICF is doing it's job. Concrete is very slow to change due to the insulated thermal mass so the temperature fluctuations inside are very slow, even without any heat source inside. ICF works best in high desert climates with vast diurnal swings, when temps swing 40 degrees from 70F in the afternoon to 30F by morning.

Regarding lighting. The garage is 1,200 sqft and I am planning on doing LED ceiling lights. The plan is to install 16 sets of lights (4 rows of 4 hanging lights). The total Lumens will be at 89,200 Lumens with 40,000 of those Lumens being where the workbenches and tool benches will be. That row will have 4 sets of lets at 10,000 Lumens per light, the remaining 12 set of lights will be 4,100 Lumens per light, to give me the 49,200 Lumens. That will give me 74.3 Lumens per square foot of space.

Is that adequate? I will eventually add drywall to the walls and paint it a bright glossy white, which helps a lot to reflect the light off the walls.

I think that for better or for worse, beauty, or light, is in the eye of the beholder. It depends on what you need it for, and how good your eyes are, and how close those fixtures are to where you want the light, or how many lumens/sq. Ft. you end up with.

I think it is hard to say from a distance. White paint will lower what the minimum lighting requirement is.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Pettrix]

Getting ready to install my LiftMaster 8500W Elite jackshaft side mounted garage door openers. The installer quoted me around $1,100 per opener, installed, or $2,200 for both doors. Online it shows the door opener kits are around $600 per. So it appears the installer is asking $500 per opener for labor install.

Is installing one of these openers a DIY type of job or is it better to just pay the $500 labor per opener and have a professional install them?

 

[Doorman63]

Totally DYI!!

Couple Allen wrenches/socket on impact to install opener

1/4” drill bit for electric lock

Comes with staples for photoeye wires.

PM me if you want more info. I’ll give you my phone number

 

[yooperterry]

About to break ground on my 48x28 detached garage and on my engineering footing schedule it doesn't show any footings where the two 18' wide garage doors are. I know they are not "required" as there is nothing being supported wall wise there but someone told me that it's "better" to pour the footing under those doors as to keep the whole garage footing as a rectangle, making it stronger. One would run the horizontal footing bars but no vertical bars would be run since there is no wall being stacked on top of that area.

Is that true? Should I run a continuous footing underneath the garage doors or stop at the door area, and then restart again?

My engineering calls for a footing that is 18" below grade, 24" wide, 12" tall, with three #4 rebars at the bottom of the footing. Garage will be ICF (Insulated Concrete Forms) so I will be stacking ICF (6" concrete core) for the garage walls. I am using 4,500 psi concrete footing pour.

Put it this way, 5 month or a year down the road, if the floor breaks or cracks from running heavy equipment over the threshold, $150 of concrete would look like if would have been a bargain. I'd run the footings with rebar. But it's your choice.