Deere 110 with BB1284 box blade, not working properly?

[Martian]

Just got the chance to try the hose out, and I'm pretty sure it confirmed my guess. I used the flow hydraulics and no matter what it would load the tractor. I did take not though that with them flowing in one direction the hose would stiffen as if the fluid were in the lines and in the other it would empty, telling me that the problem lies within the return QC. I believe it is the top left that is having the problem.

If I were to need a new QC, how would I go about changing it?

 

[AKfish]

Just got the chance to try the hose out, and I'm pretty sure it confirmed my guess. I used the flow hydraulics and no matter what it would load the tractor. I did take not though that with them flowing in one direction the hose would stiffen as if the fluid were in the lines and in the other it would empty, telling me that the problem lies within the return QC. I believe it is the top left that is having the problem.

If I were to need a new QC, how would I go about changing it?

Get the part's diagram from JDPart's. Should only leak a small amount of fluid as it's not under pressure and above the sump level.

AKfish

Might have to take the rear fender off, etc. It's not a user friendly location...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My theory is that the female return is not functioning properly. I would think that it has enough to let it go almost all the way up and down, but that the pressure is to great the last few inches. I'm not that familiar with this stuff, though, so it's just a guess.

Another question, If I do have to take the female coupler off, how do I keep the tractor from losing a lot of hydraulic oil?

With the tractor engine off, release any pressure that may be in the line. With the remote valve closed, remove the female end and install the new end. Should lose next to nothing as long as the valve never gets opened.

Remember being a kid and covering the end of a straw and the drink would stay in the straw? Well, the valve is your finger and the hydraulic line is the straw.

 

[Martian]

Get the part's diagram from JDPart's. Should only leak a small amount of fluid as it's not under pressure and above the sump level.

AKfish

Might have to take the rear fender off, etc. It's not a user friendly location...

That may be my bigger concern is how the heck I'm going to get my hand and wrench in there to get it out.

With the tractor engine off, release any pressure that may be in the line. With the remote valve closed, remove the female end and install the new end. Should lose next to nothing as long as the valve never gets opened.

Remember being a kid and covering the end of a straw and the drink would stay in the straw? Well, the valve is your finger and the hydraulic line is the straw.

As a kid? I still do that! :laughing: Makes perfect sense though.

Before I get a new disconnect, theres no chance it's something blocked in the line and not the disconnect is there?

 

[AKfish]

That may be my bigger concern is how the heck I'm going to get my hand and wrench in there to get it out.

As a kid? I still do that! :laughing: Makes perfect sense though.

Before I get a new disconnect, theres no chance it's something blocked in the line and not the disconnect is there?

Well.... you can always pull your finger off the straw and look! :laughing: Let whatever hyd fluid flow out - that will flow out.

AKfish

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That may be my bigger concern is how the heck I'm going to get my hand and wrench in there to get it out.



As a kid? I still do that! :laughing: Makes perfect sense though.

Before I get a new disconnect, theres no chance it's something blocked in the line and not the disconnect is there?

Anything is possible.

 

[jenkinsph]

Martian,
If you take the female coupler off and one of the male couplers off your hose and mate them together you should be able to determine whether it is restricted or not. I would make certain the couplers were mated up all the way first though.

I have the hoe on mine right now but would think a crowfoot socket might be what you need to back off the coupler. Something else you could check for, make sure the tubing from the quickcouplers to the valve are not mashed or damaged.

 

[jenkinsph]

Martian,
On one of the other thread you mentioned bleeding off the pressure being difficult with the diverter. If you shut down the engine then turn the key to the on position without starting you can then select the rear outlets with the diverter valve and work the lever and rocker switch to relieve pressure.

 

[Martian]

Martian,
On one of the other thread you mentioned bleeding off the pressure being difficult with the diverter. If you shut down the engine then turn the key to the on position without starting you can then select the rear outlets with the diverter valve and work the lever and rocker switch to relieve pressure.

Thanks Steve,

I figured there was a way. I didn't think about turning the key, but without the key turned you can't 'access' the aux ports. I'll have to try it out when I take it off next time.

I haven't had much time to go and check it all out, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do from here. I have some friends that know more about this stuff than I, so I want them to check it out before I do anything else. I wouldn't want to spend a lot of time to find out that what I did was meaning less. I'll be giving it a good look over this weekend to see if that is what I need done. If these quick connects were out in the open to access I would have probably already had it off and tried it, but I have a feeling I'll have to remove the fender to get any access to it and will turn into a much larger project.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Zebrafive]

If putting known good female QCs on which ever of the 3 rear SCVs that is causing the problem does not fix it, next check the lines for damage (dented, smashed kinked). Last I would suspect a problem with the diverter valve. I doubt you will have plugged line.