Deere 110 with BB1284 box blade, not working properly?

[Martian]

I know that it was working properly with the remotes controlled by the loader joy stick, but does it work properly hooked up to the valve that had been giving you trouble with the ripper bar? Trying to confirm just air in the lines or is there some sort of problem with the valve? :confused3:

Duh!! Sorry for the confusion. I did not test out the TL with the troublesome remote. I should've done that, though. I'll work on that tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Thanks again for the help

 

[Martian]

Martian, sometimes you just have to trust us. :laughing:

You can say it Steve, "You told me so" Feel good?

 

[Martian]

I know that it was working properly with the remotes controlled by the loader joy stick, but does it work properly hooked up to the valve that had been giving you trouble with the ripper bar? Trying to confirm just air in the lines or is there some sort of problem with the valve? :confused3:

I just tried it, didn't want to move at all. I switched the hoses each way.

The dealer didn't think that it was air, though I am going to get a hose. They didn't have all the stuff though. The dealer thinks it's more with a faulty coupler than air in the lines. We will have to see when I get my hose made up if it loads the tractor and then it will definitely be a faulty quick disconnect.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I mentioned trying a different cylinder 14 post's ago


Matt

 

[MtnViewRanch]

This may be hard to believe, I know that I can't get my mind to, but it is what it is. 2 separate customers that I have sold "TnT" kits to, both with Kubota L5740s. Install the kits and either the hydraulics didn't work or didn't work properly. Changed the male ends that I had supplied and everything worked fine. Why would this happen, who knows? No one else has had any problems with the same exact ends. Stuff is made with certain tolerances and if the 2 pieces happen to be at the opposite ends of the tolerances, then sometimes stuff just doesn't work right. So maybe, just maybe your quick connects are the problem. That would actually be nice if indeed that is the problem.

 

[Martian]

This may be hard to believe, I know that I can't get my mind to, but it is what it is. 2 separate customers that I have sold "TnT" kits to, both with Kubota L5740s. Install the kits and either the hydraulics didn't work or didn't work properly. Changed the male ends that I had supplied and everything worked fine. Why would this happen, who knows? No one else has had any problems with the same exact ends. Stuff is made with certain tolerances and if the 2 pieces happen to be at the opposite ends of the tolerances, then sometimes stuff just doesn't work right. So maybe, just maybe your quick connects are the problem. That would actually be nice if indeed that is the problem.

I know what your saying. What troubles me is that I bought this 110 and the box blade as a 'package' deal and the previous owner used the box blade on the tractor. Which makes me question if it didn't work for him (and he didn't tell me) or it was something that occurred when my dealer was servicing it. Either way, if it doesn't allow hydraulic fluid through this hose, I'll be needing new quick connects.

 

[Martian]

I mentioned trying a different cylinder 14 post's ago


Matt

Thanks Matt, I should've given you credit, I just didn't feel like going back that far to find your post.

 

[Zebrafive]

Now that we're talking QCs are you thinking it's the male tips or the females on the tractor? A little swapping of them should tell.

 

[Martian]

Now that we're talking QCs are you thinking it's the male tips or the females on the tractor? A little swapping of them should tell.

I still have to get home and try the hose that I got made up to make sure, but I could only imagine that it would be the females on the tractor. Since I've put the males into different females and they worked fine, it has to be that set of remotes.

 

[Martian]

My theory is that the female return is not functioning properly. I would think that it has enough to let it go almost all the way up and down, but that the pressure is to great the last few inches. I'm not that familiar with this stuff, though, so it's just a guess.

Another question, If I do have to take the female coupler off, how do I keep the tractor from losing a lot of hydraulic oil?