Decapitate my PT (ROPS)?

[Spiffy]

Hadn't thought of tilting! I'll have to look closer I don't think it would just hinge around the back bolt, but no law says I can't add on! Would need to allow an extra loop of wiring to, but no more hastle than removing......

Thoughts to ponder....

If the tilt doesn't look too easy (or enough clearance with the hoe) thinking maybe off for winter, on for summer; just the opposite of pequeajim! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[stray]

This would be something I might do if I had the same problem. All of the welding of lugs, flanges and hinges could be done first. Then saw the ROPs pipe or square tubing into. By doing it like that you can keep everything in perfect alignment or at least tack them on very well then saw and do the final welding. I know this is a crude drawing but hope you get the idea. Maybe someone with a CAD program could do much better.?

 

[MossRoad]

Could you lower the garage floor instead? I know, I know, it sounds goofy. But just think about it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Spiffy]

With your talent in paint(guessing here) no need for CAD! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The only negatives I can imagine are that it looks pretty heavy to be "flipping over" by hand and that I'd still need a loop wire (or just reroute the wire) for the lights.

Right now, I'm leaning toward winter removal, or tilting the whole thing, but keep the ideas coming! Never know which one will help me or the next guy to ask! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

If I do remove it, somebody else had a pretty good idea making a shorter rops, without the sheet metal ( so I wouln't wack my head- at least after I'm seated), but not this winter; too many other toys to build first - if I even get time or money for those. Aside from mods and a rather flat driveway, it won't get started much, so the safety doesn't concern me [for the winter].

 

[Spiffy]

Nothing goofy about your suggestion!

If the concrete is the thickness I'm lead to believe it is, raising the door looks like the better long term option, but certainly not a bad idea. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[NJBill]

Chad,
In one of your replies to me, you mentioned " it is a strange pole construction ". Good, so for your future thinking, if it is a true pole and beam construction then the door header is not caarrying any weight. Sorry that quote got past me.
If we keep this up, I'll have that thing tore down and back together before you can blink an eyelid..
Take Care, Bill

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( hey. what about rasing the roof or lowering the floor? )</font> <font color="red"> PT door in the back???? </font>

<font color="red"> I like this idea. </font>

 

[BillCroasmun]

Don't know what your outside siding is so this could be easy or hard depending but here's a crazy idea for you...

It looks like your spring is high enough to allow you to pass under so you could just frame a hinged opening at the top of your door. Sorta like a very wide pet door. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

You'd want it to swing out so as not to interfere with the garage door usage. I've re-attached your picture with my painted modifications. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif The black outlined area could swing out and allow you to pull in. Could be dead bolted on the inside for security and with the proper hinge could swing out and stay locked open as well. If the outside is anything like T1-11 the door may not even be visible from outside depending on how you seal your seams.

Good luck!

 

[NJBill]

Thanks Bill,
That's why I was waiting for an outside shot of the doorway , to come up with that in lieu of raising the whole door. I love to meet logical thinkers.
The other Bill

 

[Spiffy]

Sorry about the long wait and a pathetic picture at that, but here's the outside. <font color="red"> edit: picture on following post </font>

I have seen the hinge technique used quite well before and think it would be pretty easy against both the steel skin and the plywood. The big thing scaring me with that or raising it [actually considering this caveat, I'm thinking raising the whole door is about the same work] is that underneath it is that load bearing "4X6" [maybe 4X5 can't quite remember] - the trim nailed to it may be cosmetic, but it's supportting 1/3 [or 1/6 as you only count one side] of the ceiling and roof. Ironically pulling the lousy 40d or 60d or whatever nasty spikes they toenailed all around each end of that "4X6" scares me almost as much as getting the right amout of pressure under it while I'd chainsaw the uprights down (or "up" as the case would be) to size.

Still doable, but the more I think about it the more I'm thinking "not this fall". Great ideas! Definitely a thread I'll have to bookmark for consideration next spring.

Thanks guys! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Spiffy]

picture this time! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

but still lousy..../forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[stray]

I see now!! Looks like all you will have to do is set the buildings on top of 8 inch blocks.

 

[BillCroasmun]

NJBill, Thanks for the kind words but logical thinking isn't always a good thing... just ask my wife. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Although I think she's got her own brand of logic. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Spiffy,
Not sure if your still looking for brainstorming ideas but if I'm picturing this correctly it shouldn't be too much work at all to deal with the support issues.

If that 4x6 above the door frame is load bearing could you just put two 7' vetical 4x6's on both sides of the garage doors going from the ground to the underside of this current support (to act as jack posts). Then directly above those put in two 12" vertical 4x6's then lay a horizontal support beam across the top of those. I'd probably add in some diagonal bracing too just because. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Build these permanent supports then start your cutting.

Raising the whole door after redoing the supports would probably be more expensive since you'll have to add a new door section and extend your door tracks (or just buy a new door) but should be quicker/easier.
Installing the hinged door extension above would probably be cheaper but more time consuming.
Either way shouldn't be too bad though...

 

[Spiffy]

Hi Bill!

I won't be doing anything to the garage until spring, but am sure planning to follow the thread as long as it's alive, then bookmark it for later.

Never know when an idea might help someone else too for that matter. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

When I get a few minutes, I should make a sketch of what it looked like before I added the walls; my descriptions are sometimes pretty vague - even spite of my verbosity. It looks like you have it pretty well imagined though.

 

[Spiffy]

Been garaged since November, but finally getting the pictures of it [was out pushing snow and thought I better grab the camera before I even finished brushing off the snow].

Even beyond clearing the garage, I'm very pleased with the way it feels without the canopy. It clears trees nicer and it feels much less top heavy [of course, just the optical illusion of being 2ft shorter]. At the risk of alerting the safty police, I may even leave it off. Although a great compromise would be a slightly shorter ROPs without a canopy [so I don't wack my head with it being lower]; then I have somewhere nice to mount lights again! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[BillCroasmun]

Shorter ROPS is a great idea... Something I always wondered about the rear seated PTs like your 2445, how hot is it sitting over the engine compartment? In winter it sure can't hurt! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif There probably has been threads on this before but knowing I wouldn't go that route I probably skimmed by that question.

 

[Spiffy]

<font color="blue">Something I always wondered about the rear seated PTs like your 2445, how hot is it sitting over the engine compartment? </font>

Doesn't seem to have much discomfort in the summer or advantage in the winter. But could just be that I have really ignorant rump. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[BillCroasmun]

I guess that shouldn't be too surprising... I'm sure PT wouldn't sell many if they were designed with heat discomfort in the summer. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[DHS]

Chad,

I removed my PT lights. I picked up a couple of square magnets with holes on the center from Mac's. I mounted the PT lights to the magnets. I wired flat 2 way trailer connectors, from Mac's to the light wires from the light switch and to each of the lights. With the lights mounted on magnets I can place the light/s below or above the ROPS or where they we originally mounted. I can use the flat 2 way trailer connector and light switch to connect and control an electric sprayer and other 12 volt equipment without wiring additional switches. This arrangement works good for me.

Dale

 

[Gravy]

That sounds like a great idea! Adds another dimension of simple versatility. I'll have to add it to my list of improvements to make...

Gravy