D hooks or rails

[ihuntbear]

what is better to tie everything down.I see new trailers with D hooks bolted to the side of the trailer and I see some trailers just with welded on rails.I think the rails are 2 x 1/4 or maybe 2 x 3/8 flat bar are welded to the stake holders.Will the stake holder hold all that weight?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Depends what you are hauling. Think of it this way most semi trailers have the flat bar type set-up over the stake pockets. I think it would be fine either way.

Chris

 

[ihuntbear]

6000 lbs tractor plus attachments

 

[tlbuser]

If the welds are good, yes. The rub rail welded to the pockets allows almost unlimited placement. Mild steel has a 100,000 psi/inch thickness rating ~ 25,000 for 1/4". D-rings are nice too, especially one in the front center of the trailer (winch, come-along, etc)

 

[JESSE1]

I've got D rings on my trailer but I usually just wrap the chain around the stake pocket, keeping the chain inside the rub rail and either hook to the stake pocket or back to the chain.

 

[tlbuser]

Isn't your tractor on the wrong side of the trailer? Although, it probably gets terrific fuel mileage that way

 

[Highbeam]

what is better to tie everything down.I see new trailers with D hooks bolted to the side of the trailer and I see some trailers just with welded on rails.I think the rails are 2 x 1/4 or maybe 2 x 3/8 flat bar are welded to the stake holders.Will the stake holder hold all that weight?

The stake pockets will hold the weight of standard tractors so long as you bind it with normal force. The ratchet binders these days allow you to really really bind a chain tight to the point that something has got to give.

Bolted D-rings are fine too and have load ratings. The D-rings have the benefit of being usable even when you have filled the stake pockets with stakes for side rails.

I was trying to haul home some logs and wanted to have sides on the trailer and to bind the logs down with chains but I couldn't have both.

If you use the rub rail to attach the chain you have to figure that the chain can slide down the rub rail to the nearest stake pocket. You may as well just use the stake pocket unless your chain is running totally perpendicular to the rub rail across the trailer.

 

[JESSE1]

Isn't your tractor on the wrong side of the trailer? Although, it probably gets terrific fuel mileage that way

It gets great mileage that way. Red, on the other hand, doesn't do nearly as well.

 

[mojoinco]

FYI, most run of the mill mild steel is in the 60,000 psi range.

That's a reason why the most common arc rod is 6010/6011, 7014/7024/7018. The first two digits have the last three zeros truncated. You can get steel in a variety of strengths, but the 60,000# is the default. The last 2 digits of the welding rod are indicative of other details, such as welding position, metal and shielding material composition.

By the way -- I want a red truck too.

 

[Quickster2]

Awesome rigs Jesse1.

 

[crbr]

It gets great mileage that way. Red, on the other hand, doesn't do nearly as well.

You have opened a new can of worms.

I'd love to see more pictures of both of those tractors. Very nice looking machines.

 

[Jim in ICT]

I'm planning on welding the stake pockets to my trailer and then adding the rub rail to tie them together for additional strength. That way the load can be partially transmitted down the rail.

 

[wkpoor]

I have both rub rails and D rings. Both come in handy. I find I use the D rings most though unless I'm using chain. Most of my tie downs aren't the flat hook so D rings work well.

 

[JESSE1]

You have opened a new can of worms.

I'd love to see more pictures of both of those tractors. Very nice looking machines.

Here you go. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/146130-truck-restoration.html