cylinder sleeve removal

[tgathright]

Hello everyone,
first post for me.
Anyone can give advice on removing the sleeves on a 1958 ford 641?
It is my first time to try.
Engine is in the frame with all rods and pistons removed. The pistons had so much slack I could shake them in the bore. Cylinders look good, compression test was in the neighborhood of 115 psi. but the leak-down test hovered around 75 percent. These are "dry sleeves" correct??
Thanks,
tgathright

 

[JC-jetro]

my buddy did it to his 8N. He could not remove the sleeve intact or undamaged. He took a chisel to it on the edge and tore it our of the cylinder. Sleeves are not very thick. He put a thin layer of oil on the new sleeves, put them in a plastic bag and sucked the air out of it. He then put the sleeves in a freezer for 1/2 hr, he then got all lined up and quickly inserted the liner in without any force. he only had one chance to try it out.

JC,

 

[Joe H]

put them in a plastic bag and sucked the air out of it

What did that do to help the process?

Joe H

 

[JC-jetro]

put them in a plastic bag and sucked the air out of it

What did that do to help the process?

Joe H

As two engineers we put our heads together. We postulated by removing moist warm air out of the package once we put the sleeves in a freezer no condensation turned ice would form on the outside of the sleeves making it easy to insert the sleeve in to the cylinder. We pre-lubed the sleeves to make the final work as quick as we could so the sleeve would have not enough time to expand due to warming up.

That's our story and we're sticking to it.:laughing:

JC,

 

[KYErik]

I have heard that welding a heavy bead around the inside of the sleeve can loosen it up (as the weld cools it contracts and makes the sleeve a hair bit smaller and easier to extract)

 

[rasimmo]

Just like true engineers, overthinking everything.:laughing:

Those sleeves are gonna be pretty tough to get out. My advice is get a big hammer. They will probably not come out in one piece no matter how hard you try.

 

[JC-jetro]

Just like true engineers, overthinking everything.:laughing:

Those sleeves are gonna be pretty tough to get out. My advice is get a big hammer. They will probably not come out in one piece no matter how hard you try.

That's why we get the big bucks. You're right, he tore the sleeves to pieces to take it out. One other fellow junior engineer said , "why not , fill the sleeve with dry ice and then pull it out". We quickly killed the idea as the block is a huge heat sink and the old sleeve is good for nothing anyway.

Jc,

 

[tgathright]

Thanks for the information guys, I was really afraid to weld a bead up and down the existing sleeves for fear of burning through the sleeve. But when I think about it seems to me that with a dry sleeve the only seal to worry about would be the seal at the top at the head gasket, is that correct? I have not tried to pull one yet, I spent the afternoon making a jig to pull from the top. maybe weld a small piece of metal at the very top where there is a little more meat to grab on to, then made a jig to go under that and pull up with a 3/4" threaded rod,nut and frame.
Anyone else have experience with this? I like to hear all solutions.
My ford 641 is in the frame with crankshaft in, I just removed the head, pistons and rods. Rod bearings are 0.010 us.
Cheers
tgathright

 

[tcartwri]

Forged pistons will have a lot of slop when they are cold. What is the clearance like on the pin diagonal?

 

[barbqranch]

I had an outer race of a needle bearing to remove from a casting in a windmill, and the machine shop welded a bead on it and it came right out. However, it might be possible to weld it in if your ground is on the block rather than touching the sleeve.

Liquid nitrogen would work even better, if you can get some. Really really cold.