flyerdan
Veteran Member
Harbor Freight has a couple of grease fitting assortments, both SAE and metric. They are good to have on hand for replacements, as well a new applications.
Cylinder repair suggestions?
- Thread starter electrycmonk
- Start date
OP
electrycmonk
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2018
- Messages
- 212
- Location
- Near Denton, TX
- Tractor
- Satoh 370 diesel & Cub Cadet 7260 Diesel 4WD standard
Awesome sauce flyerdan. HF just got added to my errands run today. Thanks. /I wish I could figure out the WYSIWYG codes for TBN to properly highlite fellow users names like I can in other forums.
OP
electrycmonk
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2018
- Messages
- 212
- Location
- Near Denton, TX
- Tractor
- Satoh 370 diesel & Cub Cadet 7260 Diesel 4WD standard
So today I picked up a HF zerk assortment box for a few bucks.
Removed the safety nut/bolt, the pin pulled out of the top super smooth and still a modest layer of grease all over it. Dirty, older grease but, hey that means the piston with that bad weld job has grease inside it too.
Yup, inside surface was all covered in old grease.
Was able to rotate the piston 180° and low and behold....... The backside was welded too! And even more fugly.
Sooo, I am going to try after this weekend's forecasted rain to drill and tap for a zerk anyway.
Might as well use it untill it breaks or when the replacement piston arrives (shrugs).
Will update with pictures after the rain.
Removed the safety nut/bolt, the pin pulled out of the top super smooth and still a modest layer of grease all over it. Dirty, older grease but, hey that means the piston with that bad weld job has grease inside it too.
Yup, inside surface was all covered in old grease.
Was able to rotate the piston 180° and low and behold....... The backside was welded too! And even more fugly.
Sooo, I am going to try after this weekend's forecasted rain to drill and tap for a zerk anyway.
Might as well use it untill it breaks or when the replacement piston arrives (shrugs).
Will update with pictures after the rain.
flyerdan
Veteran Member
If you can turn the rod end so you can stand right over it and drill down, there is less likelihood of breaking a bit. When it does punch through, it will probably leave a nasty burr inside, I'd remove it with a small sanding drum on a Dremel but am curious to how others would deal with it, if they didn't have that available.
Topzide
Gold Member
No dermal tool needed.
Take a piece of rod, slot in end, add sandpaper, chuck into drill. Instant rotary flapper! Have used this trick to smooth out internal problems.
!
Take a piece of rod, slot in end, add sandpaper, chuck into drill. Instant rotary flapper! Have used this trick to smooth out internal problems.
!
OP
electrycmonk
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2018
- Messages
- 212
- Location
- Near Denton, TX
- Tractor
- Satoh 370 diesel & Cub Cadet 7260 Diesel 4WD standard
Yes, I planned on trying that method & that angle of attack too, for drilling. It's easier on my knee.
As for cleaning up any Burr's etal....
My initial go-to is a set of mini files. Very gentle files. About 4-5 inches long and at most 1/4 inch wide surface. Some are flat some are rounded. All are very fine teeth. Then I was looking at using some sand paper and steel wool to finish it off?
All this I have on hand.
BTW Topzide's idea is very cool too! I can visualize it. But.... Maybe he can post a pic of his own? I'm very curious about the dia and the depth of the slot.
Nite nite y'all. We have almost 2 full weeks of rain forecast where it's 40% or greater each and every day. Sheesh.
Topzide
Gold Member
This is what I had fashioned for my fix. Can be solid or tube.
