Cutting asphalt to create a drain

[SouthernSky]

I have a large area in front of my home that was black-topped maybe 20 years ago. In the center of the largest area (where everyone drives and parks) there is now a 40’ long depression that collects water that becomes a pond until it evaporates. An overlay is not an option (without a complete removal of all the current blacktop) as that will cause water to drain the wrong way.

So I want to cut into the 3” blacktop from the lowest point over to where I can drain the water into a drain with pipe and have it flow to a ditch. Then backfill it with … not sure yet but we do have to drive over it.

If I use the tines on my box blade, it will likely break off huge chunks of asphalt, much wider than I’d want the gap to be (6” or so”). I’ve heard a trencher should not be used as the tar will gum up the trencher teeth.

What would be the best way to make a smooth cut in the blacktop?

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

I have a large area in front of my home that was black-topped maybe 20 years ago. In the center of the largest area (where everyone drives and parks) there is now a 40’ long depression that collects water that becomes a pond until it evaporates. An overlay is not an option (without a complete removal of all the current blacktop) as that will cause water to drain the wrong way.

So I want to cut into the 3” blacktop from the lowest point over to where I can drain the water into a drain with pipe and have it flow to a ditch. Then backfill it with … not sure yet but we do have to drive over it.

If I use the tines on my box blade, it will likely break off huge chunks of asphalt, much wider than I’d want the gap to be (6” or so”). I’ve heard a trencher should not be used as the tar will gum up the trencher teeth.

What would be the best way to make a smooth cut in the blacktop?

Might want to consider renting a demo saw otherwise I think you are relegated to a concrete cutting service for a really clean cut.

 

[Peace]

Rent a concrete/asphalt walk behind wet blade cutter from big box store or rental store. Buy 4” ABS drain pipe. No smaller, gets plugged with leaves and dirt to quick. Buy drain grate with removable top, pic shown. Snap 2 chalk lines from drain location 6” apart ( or 1” each side of drain pipe) use cheap clear spray paint to paint over your new chalk lines. This will seal them against water spray from sawing. Dig out with appropriate drain angle, can be done by hand with flat blade pick. Install pipe and drain. Backfill with ready mix from big box store( min 3” on top) and trowel flush with existing asphalt. Let dry 5 days, then coat with asphalt coating patch oil. Follow directions on bottle for coating applications. Different brands have different instructions. Good luck and have fun!
this is a cheap and simple fix done in a weekend.

 

[/pine]

I agree...rent a wet saw...I'd consider something like this of the grade would support it...:

NDS 5 in. Pro Channel Drain Kit 5-1/2 in. x 39-3/8 in. Deep Channel, Galv. Steel Grates, End Caps/Outlet (3-Pack=9.8 ft) 864GMTL-3PK - The Home Depot

Keep your home clear of stormwater runoff and standing water with this 5-in. Pro Series channel drain kit. For an easy set-up, it offers a built-in interlocking channel design. A deep profile channel allows you to drain moderate flows.

www.homedepot.com

 

[BleedingOrange]

An old carbide skill saw blade will work. It,s probably only 1-2 inches thick.

 

[SouthernSky]

Thanks for the ideas. I will look into a rental later this week. I actually already have two drains and a hose but wasn’t sure the what was the best way to seal it after cutting it.

I appreciate it!

 

[Egon]

How thick is the asphalt?

 

[4570Man]

A skil saw with a masonry blade will probably get the job done. A gas masonry saw would make quick work of the job.

 

[/pine]

A diamond blade is the blade of choice...

as soon as other toothed or composite etc. blades get gummed up they will only continue cutting while the asphalt is above it's melting temp...

 

[mike0000]

I recently repaired an area of asphalt that was raised by a tree root that had grown under a driveway.
like others, I just used my circular saw with a masonry blade I bought at Lowe’s. I screwed a 2x4 into the asphalt (on the side that was to be removed) for a guide for the saw, worked great. The asphalt on the drive was less than 2” thick. The damaged area was close to the garage, after cutting and removing asphalt and root, I poured concrete as a repair. I was lucky that it looked like it had always been like that (concrete ramp to the garage).

Mike