Cutter Setup

MikePA · Apr 12, 2002

Attached is a collage of my Woods BB60. Would you other folks who have a BB60 check your cutter setup and compare it to mine? I was under the impression that the toplink should be able to swing through and with the bolt (circled) that can't happen. Also the cutter, as delivered by the dealer, has a good tilt towards the tractor. Is this right?

beenthere · Apr 12, 2002

If mine, I would have the bolt out of the yoke where the top 'link' connects. I think you are right, that the top 'link' should be able to swing through.

For the mower height (front versus rear), you should decide on the height of the trailing wheel (your pick) and set it for that height. Then you can adjust the front height with the 3pt arms (position control). Usually the rotary cutter works best by the front being just a bit lower than the back. Of course, when the tractor wheels go into a dip or over a rise, this height difference will change.

I adjust the length of the top 'link' so the drive shaft does not contact the deck when the 3pt is fully raised.

Others may have a different take on this setup, but I like the way my rotary cutter operates this way.

Hope this helps.

MikePA · Apr 12, 2002

I adjust the length of the top arm so the drive shaft does not contact the deck when the 3pt is fully raised.
By 'top arm' do you mean the toplink on the 3ph or something on the cutter?

Thanks for the reply.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 12, 2002

...the cutter, as delivered by the dealer, has a good tilt towards the tractor...

By having the front of the cutter... 1 - 2 inches lower than the rear... you actually need less PTO hp to cut (in theory-you're cutting it once) and in turn you can also travel faster...

If the front of the cutter is level with the rear... it will mulch/shred the material and uses more PTO hp (in theory you are cutting it twice)

I'm not familiar with this Woods toplink hookup... but it appears it could be used in the manner pictured with a "quick hitch" & normal hookup (having two holes, and the mounted bolt keeps the swivel out for a "quick hitch" to hook up)

Also in transport position, this bolt could help keep the front of the cutter from contacting the PTO shaft, by not allowing the swivel to "swing back through"...

radman · Apr 12, 2002

There really isn't a reason for the toplink to swing all the way through. I believe the bolt you circled, probably has a spacer over the bolt and between the sides of the toplink. This would serve to give strength to the toplink and prevent it from spreading or narrowing. I would leave it alone.
Typically I like the cutter to be level with the ground when mowing. Adjust the height of the rear wheel where you want the mower to cut. Use the lift arms on the tractor to set the front to the same height and carry the weight of the front of the cutter. Once everything is set, the tractor toplink should not be carrying any weight and there should be a slight flex or dip at the site of the tractor toplink and mower connection. Adjust the toplink accordingly to obtain this slight flex. This slight flex allows the mower to better follow the contour of the ground. Most all newer cutters are this way. I have and old cutter and use a chain as a toplink to acheive the same effect.

beenthere · Apr 12, 2002

You are right - the top link on the 3pt. Sorry not to make that clear.

MikePA · Apr 12, 2002

Thanks, John. From your description it sounds as if the cutter is set up properly. The cutter is supposed to support a quick hitch attachment. What about shortening the top link to prevent the deck from hitting the PTO driveshaft?

Darren · Apr 12, 2002

The toplink should attach close to a position directly above the lift pins. I have a different Woods model which has an A frame type arrangement with the lower legs of the A fastened onto the threaded side of the lift pins. The top of the A has an opening for the toplink.

The circled piece on your machine is an attachment point on mine for a flat bar that runs from that point to the top of the A on the front of the mower. The bar acts as a brace for the A and another adjustment.

JohnMiller3 · Apr 12, 2002

When I adjust an implement in the transport position, I look for a few things…

Tire Clearance, PTO shaft clearance, and secure anti-sway chains…

On tire clearance, transport means I drive down the road @ 20+ mph… I want more than a mere inch or two clearance from those rear tires, whether I have my 1400 lb. Rotary cutter or ~~950 lb. 3-bottom plow hooked up…

PTO shafts once bent are junk, and too darn expensive to replace… and once bent if used will cause gearbox seal problems, tractor pto seal problems, causing dangerous vibrations and gets you in a catch-22 situation…

In transport position, those anti-sway chains are tightened down so the implement is “now” an extension of the tractor…- if not… you get moving down the road, with that heavy implement slowly swaying side to side and pretty soon it becomes uncontrollable… it’s the tail wagging the dog now… and your off the road and dead…

(attached is a closeup of my Brown cutter in transport position…)

BKColeman · Apr 12, 2002

Mike,

My cutter does not have that bolt. It will swing freely through. I believe the manual says it should.

As far as the height, you're correct, it does have a tilt toward the tractor of an inch or so. The manual recommends making it level only to shred. I changed mine once as a test and went over some dead limbs, hoping to shred them better. There wasn't much difference I could tell, but it might not have been a good test. As I am mostly mowing, w/ little 'bush-hogging' so far, I leave it with the tilt as you have it.

As far as being quick-hitch compatible, I'm not sure. The manual seems to suggest it is, which might be why you have that bolt. But the brochure I have and the web site only list the medium duty as being quick-hitch compatible, not the standard duty.

I also try to make sure the toplink isn't supporting any of the weight when mowing. It allows it follow the contour of the ground a little better when there is a little play.

--Brad

TresCrows · Apr 12, 2002

My KK unit has a similar swivel link. I called KK to determine how it was supposed to be set up. What JMIII said is what they said and they also said the swivel link should not swing through.
J

MikePA · Apr 13, 2002

While I believe it's true, I'm having trouble visualizing how shortening the toplink prevents the driveshaft from hitting the deck when the 3ph is raised. I had to unscrew the toplink out quite a ways to reach the deck. How do you shorten the toplink once it's connected to the deck? Just crank away on the short bar coming out of the toplink?

The other thing I thought of was how would that self-contained hydraulic toplink from Jiff Hitch Systems work in such a circumstance?

RoyJackson · Apr 13, 2002

I'm having trouble visualizing how shortening the toplink prevents the driveshaft from hitting the deck when the 3ph is raised.

On my tractor, adjusting the upper link length is done by rotating the center barrel. There are two (2) threaded fittings on the ends, one with a right hand thread, the other a left hand thread. If you're familar with a turnbuckle..well, that's what the top link is, basically.

By shortening the upper link, the implement is pivoting about the lower links, thus lowering the front of the implement (and, of course, raising the rear of the implement). This, at least on my mower, results in more clearance for the PTO shaft when the 3ph is raised.

How I adjust my mower is by standing along side the tractor and slowly raising the 3ph until the PTO shaft is very close. Then, I lower the 3ph to adjust the upper link as required.
I may raise and lower two or three times before I get adequate clearance while still ensuring the mower is level.

For your information, the tractor is a Deere 670. The mower is a Befco C-30.
There is an adjustable stop on the rockshaft lever to limit the maximum height the implement can be raised. I'm not sure if this would be called "positional control".
I must set this at a position lower then maximum lift height of the 3ph, otherwise the shaft will hit the deck of the mower.

Hope this helps...

beenthere · Apr 13, 2002

That is a good description of adjusting the top link.
I would only add that I don't take any chances that I or someone else would not lift the 3pt arms to the max. So I adjust (shorten) the top link for the max 3pt lift, and still clear the drive shaft and the deck.

MikePA · Apr 13, 2002

Yes, it did help Roy. Thanks. If it stops raining here, I go out and give it a try.

BKColeman · Jul 27, 2002

Mike,

I just finished watching the video that <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=implement&Number=175600&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&fpart=>JMIII posted</A> a link to on the Woods BrushBull.

I noticed at the end of the video they showed the toplink attachment up close and there was no bolt. They even show it swinging all the way back through.

Did you ever take your bolt out or is it still in?

--Brad

RoyJackson · Jul 27, 2002

"They even show it swinging all the way back through."

This is a good point. Since my original post on 13 April, I have been loosening the top hitch when mowing. This is to allow the RFM to better follow the contours of the area to be mowed/hogged.
However, I don't need to raise the 3PH until I'm finished with the task at hand. Then I'll re-adjust the top link for transport.

Adjustment takes less time then it did to write this post.

MikePA · Jul 27, 2002

Hi Brad,

No, I neve took it out. I noticed the pin that connects the toplink to the cutter is long enough that it would not let the link swing through. I have it on my list to get a shorter pin.