Cut-off guides for firewood

[turnkey4099]

Over the years I have tried every method of marking logs for cutting that I have heard of.

Mark the whole log and start cutting? Nope. Come to a crook, crotch, limb, etc and you have to make an adjustment - throws all subsequent marks off.

Eyeball? Nope. Doesn't work for me. On big stuff I cut short blocks, little stuff I cut long

Measure with saw bar? Not for me! I get enough workout running a saw without waving it around flipping it 90 degrees twice for each cut.

Years ago I made cut-off guids that bolted on the bar studs. The Husky 51 in the center has one on it. Not very good as it takes way to much time to mount/dismount.

Carry a measuring stick? Yep, that I do but it is a bit awkward and detracts from a proper hold on the saw. I used to use sticks or dowels painted white. Last year I spotted the white plastic 1/4" plumbing pipes - already painted white and thin enough to make it a bit easier to carry. I cut 3 of them out of one length of pipe. That is one of them at the bottom of the pic.

Commercial cut-off guide "Quick Stix" from Baileys. Good idea but pee poor design. The plastic rods are so flimsy they break just by setting the saw down. I broke 3 of them in the first few minutes of using each even being careful.

I replaced the plastic ones with 5/16 rod from Ace Hardware. Found that it is close enough to thread using a 8 x 1.5mm die. Works fine. Spins on/of the union' nut in seconds. Most times I do my limbing as I go and leave the rod on. One gets used to it rapidly.

Yes I know, "it'll get in the way" Nope, not to a noticeable degree. "it would be on when I want it off" - so do it. Remember, spins on/off in seconds.

It is not for everyone but it works for me and I wouldn't be without them.

Union nuts are, so I am told, available at McMasters.

Harry K

 

[magicheater]

That is a clever idea. What I do is just use the saw itself to measure, I have a particular spot on the saw for the length I cut. Granted I need to rotate the saw 90 degrees to do it.

 

[Skyco]

Never tried the "Quick Stix" type, figured they'd get broke in no time. Always wondered why they didn't incorporate a sping mount so it could flex out of the way..

For now I'm using a piece of 2x2 painted dayglo so I can find it when I inevitably misplace it in the woods...already lost several pieces of pvc pipe, I also have mark on the bar for when I can't find my stick., :laughing:

 

[jimmyj]

I made a mark on the bar and use it to measure.

 

[20 20]

I can usually just go by sight, but if I need to measure then I turn the saw. I do have a question though, and maybe it is stupid. I don't understand why the need for perfectly measured fire wood? Does the woodstove go out, or spit the wood back if it's not perfect ? I've been burning wood for 30+ yrs and have yet to be cold because of wrong sized wood {off by a couple of inches}. I understand if it is for sale and customers are picky, or if you stack the wood in the front yard like a sculpted masterpiece. If your just going to burn it then what is all the nerve racking and hassle over, it's just fire wood?

 

[JDGreenGrass]

I can usually just go by sight, but if I need to measure then I turn the saw. I do have a question though, and maybe it is stupid. I don't understand why the need for perfectly measured fire wood? Does the woodstove go out, or spit the wood back if it's not perfect ? I've been burning wood for 30+ yrs and have yet to be cold because of wrong sized wood {off by a couple of inches}. I understand if it is for sale and customers are picky, or if you stack the wood in the front yard like a sculpted masterpiece. If your just going to burn it then what is all the nerve racking and hassle over, it's just fire wood?

I have been burning wood for many many years. If I am going to take that much time and effort I am darn well sure that it is going to stack nicely and all be the same length.

My stove takes a 20" stick and I cut all my wood at 18" ....marked with the bar on my saw.

 

[jimmyj]

I love the look of a uniform wood pile. It's just a thing of beauty.

 

[BHD]

just an Idea here,


but if you put a short section of pipe on the nut, and then put a hole in the pipe that would accept a spring pin, then make a rod, (would think fiber glass would be ideal) as it is flexible, but that way one could insert it and remove it in just seconds, (the spring pin to hold the rod in)

 

[chopped]

I just judge mine for legnth, But do get a bit 'greedy' sometimes and find I get one a bit to long and cant close the door. so its either taken out in flames with the pinchers. or dragged out of the stove a bit and then electric chainsawed down to legnth.

 

[Deadman]

once you cut alot of wood, you'll never need to measure again. Its kinda like breathing, you just do it right without thinking! :laughing:

My stove takes 24 inch wood, but I like 18 inch as its easier to handle. If I cut mine a few inches too long by accident, it most always still fits in the 24 inch burner.

When i first started cutting wood, I was always cutting them either really short or really long. thats ended now that I cut 30+ face cord a year! :confused2:

 

[magicheater]

I can usually just go by sight, but if I need to measure then I turn the saw. I do have a question though, and maybe it is stupid. I don't understand why the need for perfectly measured fire wood? Does the woodstove go out, or spit the wood back if it's not perfect ? I've been burning wood for 30+ yrs and have yet to be cold because of wrong sized wood {off by a couple of inches}. I understand if it is for sale and customers are picky, or if you stack the wood in the front yard like a sculpted masterpiece. If your just going to burn it then what is all the nerve racking and hassle over, it's just fire wood?

If you sell wood and people measure 15" or 14.5 " they think they are getting gypped. There are 221184 cubic inches in a solid cord of firewood. If all the wood is 15" and you measure by stacking in 8' long rows by 4' high the customer loses 13824 cubic inches or just over 6%. Some people are that way. I always threw in a little extra to make up for any that were inadvertently short.

 

[turnkey4099]

I can usually just go by sight, but if I need to measure then I turn the saw. I do have a question though, and maybe it is stupid. I don't understand why the need for perfectly measured fire wood? Does the woodstove go out, or spit the wood back if it's not perfect ? I've been burning wood for 30+ yrs and have yet to be cold because of wrong sized wood {off by a couple of inches}. I understand if it is for sale and customers are picky, or if you stack the wood in the front yard like a sculpted masterpiece. If your just going to burn it then what is all the nerve racking and hassle over, it's just fire wood?

Perfectectly measured? Hardly. Mine vary by an inch or so but if I don't use a guide they are all over they place Gets very annoying when trying to stack.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

once you cut alot of wood, you'll never need to measure again. Its kinda like breathing, you just do it right without thinking! :laughing:

My stove takes 24 inch wood, but I like 18 inch as its easier to handle. If I cut mine a few inches too long by accident, it most always still fits in the 24 inch burner.

When i first started cutting wood, I was always cutting them either really short or really long. thats ended now that I cut 30+ face cord a year! :confused2:

Maybe you can but I have been doing 10+ cord a year for over 30 years and still can't 'eyeball' it. Big stuff cuts short, small cuts long every time.

Harry K

 

[zzvyb6]

What about making a saw guide that is exactly the length of wood you want. It would be a tape measure that's bolted to the saw's base foot. The idea is to run out the tape measure with the end of the tape at the first cut. When the tape reaches to the length indicator start the kerf and let the tape retract.

I once took a paper tape measure out with me that was in a roll like Scotch tape. (Dollar Store issue). Came in 250 foot lengths I just stuck it onto the main trunk and cut the wood and tape all as one. Worked fine unless the bark was wet. A bit messy with tape residue all over after a while.

Another way I used was the same method I use for marking fence post locations: Find or make an object who's circumference is the desired length of wood. Wind a rope or string or baler twine around the object quite a few times. Use a can of spray paint to mark each wound section of the rope. When you unroll it, the rope will have a paint splot at each section you will be cutting. Mark the whole limb or trunk, and you have the kerf locations all set for you.

 

[Quebeker]

A trick I used to do just what you did is to put a tie-wrap fastener on the handle, perpendicular to the blade, and tihgt it enough to let it pivot when I put the saw in it's case or when the measurement was not needed (like felling trees).

Of course you have to find a long and bold tie-wrap that you cut at the desired length.

I'ts a cheap way to do it and quick to replace when necessary.

 

[forgeblast]

i use the same thing a bolt with a piece of threaded rod. its at 16'' because my stove will take up to 18''. I find i can cut faster with it on because its one less thing to worry about.
also i was cutting and pealing some poplars for a cordwood construction project i have brewing in the back of my head, and i wanted them all the same size.

 

[apm]

We've done a poplar cordwood construction house. See Earth Tones Brown

 

[theonlybull]

we put a guide on the handle, a small peice of 5/16" rod, 2" long, bent with a 90* in the middle, clamp it to the handle, with a hose clamp, then put a peice of fuel line on the other end. cut to length, and your good to go. swings back out of the way, to fit in the tool box, and can pull out with a couple wiggles to remove it..

 

[Don87]

Over the years I have tried every method of marking logs for cutting that I have heard of.

Mark the whole log and start cutting? Nope. Come to a crook, crotch, limb, etc and you have to make an adjustment - throws all subsequent marks off.

Eyeball? Nope. Doesn't work for me. On big stuff I cut short blocks, little stuff I cut long

Measure with saw bar? Not for me! I get enough workout running a saw without waving it around flipping it 90 degrees twice for each cut.

Years ago I made cut-off guids that bolted on the bar studs. The Husky 51 in the center has one on it. Not very good as it takes way to much time to mount/dismount.

Carry a measuring stick? Yep, that I do but it is a bit awkward and detracts from a proper hold on the saw. I used to use sticks or dowels painted white. Last year I spotted the white plastic 1/4" plumbing pipes - already painted white and thin enough to make it a bit easier to carry. I cut 3 of them out of one length of pipe. That is one of them at the bottom of the pic.

Commercial cut-off guide "Quick Stix" from Baileys. Good idea but pee poor design. The plastic rods are so flimsy they break just by setting the saw down. I broke 3 of them in the first few minutes of using each even being careful.

I replaced the plastic ones with 5/16 rod from Ace Hardware. Found that it is close enough to thread using a 8 x 1.5mm die. Works fine. Spins on/of the union' nut in seconds. Most times I do my limbing as I go and leave the rod on. One gets used to it rapidly.

Yes I know, "it'll get in the way" Nope, not to a noticeable degree. "it would be on when I want it off" - so do it. Remember, spins on/off in seconds.

It is not for everyone but it works for me and I wouldn't be without them.

Union nuts are, so I am told, available at McMasters.

Harry K

I can understand the theory behind using a device like that, but the actual working principle evades me.
Do you use a paint mark or something?
I personally just use my chainsaw to mark. IE: spinning the chain for my marks.
I've watched my neighbor with his 'measuring stick', and i can cut 1/3 more wood than him with a saw that is half the size, in the same amount of time.

 

[turnkey4099]

I can understand the theory behind using a device like that, but the actual working principle evades me.
Do you use a paint mark or something?
I personally just use my chainsaw to mark. IE: spinning the chain for my marks.
I've watched my neighbor with his 'measuring stick', and i can cut 1/3 more wood than him with a saw that is half the size, in the same amount of time.

Finish a cut, lay end of bar on the cut and start cutting the next round. No marking of the log at all. That is for cutting from the right to the left. Going the other way you note where the end of the rod is as you cut the previous round, move saw over to it and beging cutting the next one.

Haven't timed anything but it does eliminate all the monkey motion so it must be faster than marking a log to begin with or using a measuring stick for each cut (I do that if I am using a saw that doesn't have the 'union nut').

One good thing about it is you can adjust the cut when coming to a crotch or bow in thelog and then go right back to cutting 16" (or whatever) rounds without having to remark.

Harry K