Creating a property map

   / Creating a property map #21  
I agree, if you print it in a large format it will get pretty grainy.
 
   / Creating a property map #22  
The only way I know how to get around the graininess is to divide the property into sections and take screenshots of each section. Then stitch those screenshots together in a photo editing program, or a graphics program. You have to make a new file that is the same size as you want to print, then lay in the screenshots. You can shrink them down to fit in the new file if you need to, but never zoom them up, as that's when you lose the resolution.
 
   / Creating a property map #23  
I use Google Earth Pro (it's free, not to be confused with Google Maps). I don't really like their smartphone app, but accessing it from their desktop app works well for me.

Originally, to define my property boundaires, I found the survey pins with a handheld GPS and recorded the location. I then recreated those waypoints by manually entering them after clicking on the waypoint icon in Google Earth. Then I used the polygon tool in Google Earth to "connect the dots" and draw my property outline. It was a bit clunky, but this was years ago, and my GPS would not connect with my Mac Computer to upload the data. It's still possible to do things that way, but there are easier ways now.

You can use a smarphone app like GaiaGPS to gather the data: the free version will let you record waypoints, or walk trails and record them, you can then access GaiaGPS via a web browser on your desktop computer. It will display on a map, and you can choose various background laters (I usually choose USGS Topo for my background, since the satellite view of my property mostly just shows an unbroken forest canopy, other than at the house, yard and pond.) GaiaGPS does have a pay version that gives you more choices for background layers - including parcel boundaries. It runs $40/year. If I were just interested in my own parcel or a couple in my neighborhood, I'd just find pins and manually enter data for parcel boundaries. As an alternative, if I didn't want to spring for the $40/year, I'd buy it for one year and draw in the boundaries I wanted by copying what was displayed, save that data, then let the susbcription run out at the end of the year. (Some towns or counties have parcel data available in a form you may be able to import as well, either into GaiaGPS or Google Earth)

GaiaGPS on the smartphone is handy while hiking, or when trying to lay out a new trail, since you can see where you are on your property. I set it to record when walking my trails, and now have a record of my trail network. Since I like Google Earth's map display & editing options better, I export the data from GaiaGPS as a KML file (which is Google Earth's file format) and bring it in to Google Earth. I can edit the trail data to correct errors, or if I'm feeling ambitious, I'll record the same trail multiple times, then draw the best fit of these recordings in Google Earth (this helps overcome some of the GPS errors inherent in consumer GPS units or smartphones.) See below is what I end up with from Google Earth displayed on a Satellite photo. It shows property boundaries, trails, and I have "enhanced" the wetlands and streams to make them show up better. I also have a lot of other data, such as layers showing the stands in my forest management plan, obstacles on our obstacle course, problem areas where trails need to be rerouted or repaired, and the location of various places of interest (such as an ancient Sugar Maple or a porcupine den). I leave those layers turned off most of the time.


McNerney-Clark-Isham Trails 5-25-21.jpg


Since I'm not nuts about what I've found for options within Google Earth for displayin gthis on a topo map, I export my Google Earth data as a KML file, and input it into CalTopo. After tweaking some display settings (choose "Map Builder Topo" and turn on 10 ft contour intervals, edit colors of displayed data, etc.), here is what I get for the same general area (includes my neighbor's property to the north). I can export this to a JPG file (as shown here) or a geo-referenced PDF.

Nichols-Bennett Rd Trails.jpg


Other than the subscription to GaiaGPS premium service to get the parcel data, all of the above is free (I can't recall if I paid $5 or so for the GaiaGPS app without the parcel data, but the basic service is free these days).

There is a bit of learning curve, but it's a lot easier than learning how to use dedicated GIS software. I still come across interesting features, from time to time.

Just remember that none of the data you see in any of these apps is "survey grade". You can use it to get close to your property line, but don't rely solely on it to show you where to build a fence or to establish the boundaries of a timber harvest. I've found places where the boundaries shown are shifted by 50 feet or more. Similarly, the data you gather with a handheld GPS or smartphone GPS app will get you close, but not right on. Use it to get you close, but then look for better information: survey pins, blazes on trees, or old fences referenced in a property survey.
 
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   / Creating a property map #24  
BTW, if you are unhappy with the resolution of some of your maps, you can stitch smaller maps together, as others have mentioned. Another option is to see if whatever app you are using has a premium option with higher resolution. I know that CalTopo does. I believe GaiaGPS and Google Earth do, but have not explored that.
 
   / Creating a property map #25  
If you go the route of saving multiple screen shots, save them as PNG files and NOT, Jpeg. Jpeg will compress the file (to save space) which will decrease the resolution. Saving the same photo in Jpeg, decreases the quality each time it's saved.
 
   / Creating a property map #26  
lots of knowledgeable folks here, I'm not a surveyor and don't do property lines Ill map them if the person knows where they are though. rather what I do is Map what's in the persons property. The end result is sending a pdf file to a website like Poster Burner where a large laminated wall map is made for a customer. The key for what I do is being able to upload the gps shape files onto mapping software with overlaying satellite imagery, that allows editing, labeling etc. Getting to the final stage of this process is time consuming and there is quite a few pieces of pricey equipment which will eventually be streamlined once equipment needs replacement.
 
   / Creating a property map #27  
You can do like the old aerials, take one large overall (lower resolution) say of 36”x42”. You can then print out say 4 sheets that zoom in on the area.
If you save the file as a PDF instead of print screen your resolution should not dimenish.
 
   / Creating a property map #28  
Here is my Huntstand map (free version). They can print out large size maps.
You might also check out a shop that makes signs. They can print out pretty good stuff o a variety of backings (aluminum, steel, PVC, etc.)

Trails Huntstand 7.jpg
 
   / Creating a property map #29  
If you go the route of saving multiple screen shots, save them as PNG files and NOT, Jpeg. Jpeg will compress the file (to save space) which will decrease the resolution. Saving the same photo in Jpeg, decreases the quality each time it's saved.
The format in which you save is important (and in most cases, PNG is better than JPG. In the best case, JPG could be "as good as" PNG.)

However, I'd recommend not saving a screen shot at all. Often the underlying data is higher resolution than what you see on the screen (which is why you can zoom in and not have things get blurry or blocky. Many of these apps allow you to save or export an image. Often that saved image is higher resolution than the displayed screen.
 
   / Creating a property map #30  
A good one I haven’t seen mentioned yet is OnXhunt it shows boundary lines as well as being able to drop your pins. You are also able to download the maps for offline use, it’s an app I use in conjunction with a few others for working in the woods.
 
   / Creating a property map #31  
I pasted a pdf of the Google Earth image of my property into the drawing software I use (Dassault DraftSight). From that, I can "trace" all my paths (5 miles of them) over the pdf photo as a layer, and it turned out pretty well. From that, I took the local county map and copied on the contour lines.
 
   / Creating a property map #32  
I pasted a pdf of the Google Earth image of my property into the drawing software I use (Dassault DraftSight). From that, I can "trace" all my paths (5 miles of them) over the pdf photo as a layer, and it turned out pretty well. From that, I took the local county map and copied on the contour lines.

Take that pdf map and put it into Avenza maps then you can track yourself for your paths.
 
   / Creating a property map #33  
A good one I haven’t seen mentioned yet is OnXhunt it shows boundary lines as well as being able to drop your pins. You are also able to download the maps for offline use, it’s an app I use in conjunction with a few others for working in the woods.
I have that OnXHunt as well, and use it the same way I use GaiaGPS. I like that both of them have desktop version (via a web browser) as well as a smartphone app. You do have to pay for the parcel boundary data in OnXHunt - as you do with most such apps. Data for one state runs $30/year. For all 50 states, it's $100/year. They did recently add the ability to organize user-added data into folders, so I can keep all of the data for one parcel in

As mentioned earlier, GaiaGPS is $40/year for parcel boundaries (for all 50 states).

Take that pdf map and put it into Avenza maps then you can track yourself for your paths.

I have not used Avenza much. The big downside for me is that it's a smartphone-only app. It's a well done app, but I need the ability to work on a larger screen. You can export the date into other formats, such as Google Earth, but it's not as simple and well integrated as those who are able to access via a web browser. It's a bummer for me, since Avenza is what the state of Vermont seems to have adopted as their goto app (which means many foresters and others are adopting it as well. However, the ability to import a geo-referenced PDF file is a big plus. IF your PDF is geo-referenced (i.e. there is information embedded in the file to tie what is otherwise just a picture, to a specific location on earth), you can use that PDF as a background map to display your location on. (If I'm not mistaken, you need the paid version to import PDFs as background maps.)

GaiaGPS is working on adding the ability to import geo-referenced PDF files, but they are not there yet. They've been working on this for a couple of years now, so no telling when they might finally get it.

My all time favorite app of this type was MotionXGPS (If I'm remembering the name correctly). They had a great smartphone app, access via a web browser, and one of the better functioning methods for organizing your date into folders and subfolders. Export and Import of data was quick and easy. They also had a cool added feature: you could pick a channel or code to enter and choose to share your location. Anyone else on that same channel could see each other's location. It was great when working with a group in the woods, because I could see at a glance where everyone was in real time. We also used it when we had our annual obstacle course run/party in our woods. Anyone who wanted could install the app, and we could track their progress. If someone got off the course and turned around, we could see their location and go out and get them back on track. Unfortunately, they discontinued support for this one.
 
   / Creating a property map #34  
If it's worth the time and effort to do it well, use the free and open source GIS package QGIS (Welcome to the QGIS project!)
It has a learning curve, but it is very powerful; equally powerful to expensive commercial mapping software by ESRI.

Grab aerials and property lines off your county/state/whatever GIS mapping site, loading them in as layers. Or from World Imagery Wayback. Or use QGIS's own QuickMapServices plugin to pull them off Google, Bing, etc.

Then create and style vector layers with features you want to mark, like trails, fences, location of hunting blinds, prized trees, whatever you want.

You can then create thematic maps at whatever size you want, even create custom electronic tiled maps you load into your smartphone to use on your property.

I've done this with our 700 acres, and used it to keep a tiled map on the smartphone I update every month or so; 11x17" maps I print out for visitors on a work printer; and a really nice comprehensive 24x26 poster map I uploaded as a PDF to the local printshop and had them laminate. Plus I've printed out a much less detailed map in support of a county severance application.

Don't get me wrong, this takes some time and energy to do well (and is probably best if you're the kind of person who's comfortable doing stuff on computers, aka geek, of course). But it is the most flexible way.

Attached is an example of our self-made map of part of our property: features layered on top of the government's latest orthophoto as well as a linemap with contours (derived from the government's elevation model), waterbodies/wetlands, and landuse.
 

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   / Creating a property map #35  
I started playing with QGIS years ago, but did not have the time to climb up that rather steep learning curve, so set it aside. It is truly a powerful program, capable of doing far more than I would ever dream of doing.

Google Earth and various smartphone apps are just subsets of what QGIS or ESRI products have to offer. So far, those subsets have been good enough for my needs. However, I still have an interest in learning to use QGIS one of these days.
 
   / Creating a property map #36  
I like the HuntStand app. There is a free version that does most of what I need. One thing I like is that I can trace a path while driving my UTV or walking on the property. It also has many features like sharing with other members of your hunting club, and reserving stands, marking locations of deer activity, etc.

I did subscribe to the 'pro' version, because it offers a feature of monthly updated satellite images. Don't fall for that. The new monthly images are such a low resolution that you cannot really see anything. If I had known how poor the monthly images were, I would not have subscribed to the "pro' version.

Huntstand also offers printed satellite images at a reasonable price. You can put all your points of interest on your property and have them print it for you. I think I paid about $100 for a 30" x 30" print that can be used outdoors. We use it to pin our hunting locations.
 
   / Creating a property map #37  
I used AutoCAD to draw the property boundary, and set it on a satellite map using geolocation. I was able to get the CAD file to export with elevation to a KML file, but it didn't translate the elevation detail very well. I was able to get some help from my brother (a civil engineer who does surveying and stream restoration) to bring the DWG file into I think Carlson GIS and export the boundaries to a GPX file. I was then able to convert that back into a correct elevation adjusted KML file for use in Google Earth Pro, and GPX file for import into both OnX HUnt and my Garmin GPSMap 66i for use on the ground.
 
   / Creating a property map #38  
Given the number of mentions in this thread, I took a look at the HuntStand app. I like what I see, with reservations. I'm not going to change, and I continue to think building one's own map using GIS software is a lot more flexible, but it's certainly a good-enough solution for many people.

I like the integration between the various tools/features it has, and it is easy to use. And I like the GPS trace functionality. That said, a few things that would be pain points for me, but might not be for many people.

1. I'm in Canada. While HuntStand does offer access to pretty detailed aerial imagery (same as Google Maps) for me, it does seem a lot of the other imagery/layers are US only. Aerial imagery varies widely in its usefulness for mapping your property. If you're sparsely vegetated, great. If you're deciduously wooded and it's early spring leaf-off imagery, also great. If you have lots of conifers, or mixed/deciduous forest imaged in mid-summer, you see very little, just canopy and open water.

2. A lot of the more useful stuff is Premium-only, like property lines and offline mapping (the latter would be crucial for me, since cell coverage on my property is poor.)

3. Premium at US$30/yr is not horribly expensive, but I am leery of having important stuff related to a long-term asset like land behind a paywall requiring yearly payment. I see they'd sell me a printed map (at a reasonable price) but not sure about data export, like a pdf?

4. The features and terminology are focused on hunting. The map annotation seems to be limited to placemarks ("map objects"), lines, and polygons, with some predefined types (e.g. boundary, food plot, sanctuary, water for polygons) and colours. Great, but constraining if you want to mark other stuff (e.g. potential trail to build later in the year, different set of placemarks than their categories.)

5. They put front and centre their commitment to conservation and hunting advocacy and what organizations they support (with your premium $). I'm not fundamentally opposed to that, but generally think it's healthier that we as individuals make our own choices. While I agree with some of what they support, one of the organizations they put front and centre I find rather off-putting. Your mileage may vary, of course.

6. As @Complete Turf Care mentioned above, one of the Premium selling points is monthly satellite imagery, at a resolution of 1 pixel = 10 or 30 metres (30 or 100 feet). That is very useful for monitoring land use changes at your neighbours', and seasonal patterns prior to purchase (e.g., does this pond dry out or get covered in vegetation in late summer?), but it's too coarse to be useful to have in your pocket as you're walking your land. You can access this for free on your desktop at Sentinel-hub EO-Browser3, for instance.

Anyway, a great app to try, especially in the U.S., and might fit many peoples' needs. But there are more flexible options if you actually want to create a property map *you* own and *you* customize as you see fit.
 
   / Creating a property map #39  
Hi all

I also use QGIS. In the long run it is better to use a proper GIS package than a raster drawing package or a general vector package. I got a geo-referenced aerial image of my farm from the Lands Dept, isn't the Govt. so helpful :), and put that into QGIS. Then surveyed myself with compass and laser distance measurer all the newer animal races, and fences, tanks etc. Fences and gates are on one layer, tanks and water pipes on another layer, tree lanes on another etc.

I agree that QGIS has not got the most helpful user interface but there are good tutorials on the web. It's open source with a good community behind it.

Mike
 
   / Creating a property map #40  
For iOS or Android devides, as a possible alternative to HuntMaps, there is also Guru Maps (Guru Maps - Offline Maps & Navigation ). The free version lets you download vector maps and use them offline, record and export up to 15 GPS tracks (trails) and 15 placemarks. The premium version gives you access to more basemaps, including support for basemaps you generate yourself (e.g. with GIS, or downloaded from government sites), and better syncing/export.

If you're in the U.S. (maybe Canada) and your basemap preference is aerial imagery, HuntMaps looks like the better choice.
If you're elsewhere, OR in North America but you want to use a topo basemap or your own map generated in GIS in the field, I think Guru is the better choice.

I use Guru (together with QGIS), but I'm grandfathered in for Premium for a modest one-time charge I paid several years ago. I think the author's current Premium prices are quite high.

If you go the QGIS route and don't want to pay for Guru (or Avenza or similar), the QGIS free ecosystem includes apps called Input and QField, which are very powerful but again have their own learning curve. I don't use them but have farmer and wildlife biologist/forester friends who do.
 

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