Crawler Conversions

JustinE · May 25, 2014

Just curious if it would be possible to convert a tractor into a dozer/crawler. I know you can do it with a garden tractor. Can you do it with a regular tractor and utilize the braking system on it?

Mendonsy · May 25, 2014

I suppose anything is possible if you are willing to spend enough time and money. If you want something that actually works you should probably buy one.

plumbstraight · May 25, 2014

JustinE said:
Just curious if it would be possible to convert a tractor into a dozer/crawler. I know you can do it with a garden tractor. Can you do it with a regular tractor and utilize the braking system on it?

I have often thought of doing this. Using the high sprocket system like the caterpiller system has now. I thought of building a frame with the idlers and rollers so that the tractor could be bolted into it. Just take the front axle, rear tires, put sprockets on the rear hubs, set the tractor into it and put the tracks over the sprockets. If you wanted a blade it would be designed into the subframe so as not to put a load on the tractor frame. Using master cylinders for braking with drums or disk brakes on the sprockets using one forward and one backward off the pitman arm it could be steered from the steering wheel with assist from differential braking from the pedals.

For me, the easy way out was to build tracks for all four tires. It drives normal, has better floatation, and doeesnt' add any weight to the axles as it is on each tire. I took 6inch channel iron cut it 12 inches long for the front and 8inch for the rear cutting them 16inches for the rears. Laid the channel out C down cut chain into three links and welded one link to one C and one to the other C with the link in the middle being the hinge. Welded some side plates to keep it centered on the tire and went about my business. They worked great.

To put on I torched holes in the end pieces so I could bolt them together. Rolled up on them, put a piece of rope though the spokes and under the first link went ahead rolling the track on. Deflated the tire, bolted it together and reinflated. The hardly squeaked and it would go anywhere I pointed it.

I thought if I broke one it would fly apart with the tire pressure against it so I did my best to break one until I did. It just broke one side and spread apart, no big deal, just took it off and rewelded. No damage. Saved me a lot of money in flats and was able to go with impunity, soft ground, briars, thorns, no problem.

Clint S · May 25, 2014

Not exactly a new tractor or a crawler. per se , but cool.
FARM SHOW - His Super "ATV" Is A Tractor Show Novelty

Aussiebushman · Jun 10, 2014

Plumbstraight

Have just found this thread. Any chance of some pictures please? I tried siping the (worn) tires but it hasn't helped much. I need to get traction on shale and rough dirt tracks for my Ford 6000. All fine going forward but any attempt to reverse on a slope makes the wheels spin andi can't afford (or justify) new tyres at $1400 each

Thanks

Alan

alchemysa · Jun 10, 2014

Aussiebushman said:
Plumbstraight

Have just found this thread. Any chance of some pictures please? I tried siping the (worn) tires but it hasn't helped much. I need to get traction on shale and rough dirt tracks for my Ford 6000. All fine going forward but any attempt to reverse on a slope makes the wheels spin andi can't afford (or justify) new tyres at $1400 each

Thanks

Alan

build-yourself/21847-tracks-3.htmlh...com/forums/build-yourself/21847-tracks-3.html

Tor Arne · Jun 10, 2014

This left the Fordson factory and was converted by the County to tracks http://youtu.be/l8wRnaUlis8

Here is a MF which is converted http://youtu.be/bc4gR9B2Uqc

Some MF 35X and FE35 were mounted another front axle set slightly further back without turning, steering box was hooked up to the brakes so one could still use the steering wheel to turn. They were referred to as 3/4 trac tractors instead of half track which was slightly more common

Aussiebushman · Jun 10, 2014

Alchemsa - that link will not open. I'm in OZ too so you can always email me alan.loveard@aspac-consulting.com.au

Thanks Tor - that is very interesting but it is obviously a serious engineering job beyond my capabilities. I have stick welding and a lathe plus various power tools but that's about it.

The concept of welding plates to chain links seems a simple solution

plumbstraight · Jun 12, 2014

Aussie, I have a pic in Tracks. it is number 29 to give you an idea. Been a while since I have been around. if you go to search and use rdbrumfield, tracks I believe you can find it.

BHD · Jun 12, 2014

could consider a half track tractor, they did that in the 30's and 40's

http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/accessories/ARPS Half-Track Owner's Manual.pdf

Aussiebushman · Jun 12, 2014

Yes - saw those pics thank you. Not quite what I had in mind, but an interesting solution

Thanks. Alan

Aussiebushman · Jun 12, 2014

Yes BHD

That is exactly what I had in mind, fitted just to the rear wheels, meaning the metal plates connected with chain sections. The idea of a half track makes the concept even better. I'll give some serious thought about how to make this,

Thanks, Alan

BHD · Jun 12, 2014

the one link in my upper post is a link to a PDF manual, reposted,

http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/accessories/ARPS Half-Track Owner's Manual.pdf

Tor Arne · Jun 13, 2014

If you go for half-track solution so consider hydraulic lift, it increases ability to negotiate obstacles significantly when you can use the the bogie to lift the front wheel over obstacles. My father used to run a MF 165 with half-tracks in logging back in the 70's and one of the largest the loads he pulled was 11 cubic meters with spruce same tractor with regular forest chains pulled about half as much

Aussiebushman · Jun 14, 2014

Thanks BHD - a really interesting piece of ag-history. Tor - you are right about the clearance issue so thinking about it, instead of a half-track, I've started making a "hybrid" arrangement for each rear wheel, combining lateral bars with chain links.

The bars are made out of old star posts, cut to the width of the tyre and with brackets welded onto each end. The latter extend only far enough to stop the things rolling off the tyre. I have plenty of 8mm chain here so the cost will be zero other than cutting disks and welding rods.

Here are some pictures of the interim construction stage. Bending the star posts to the curvature of the tyres turned out to be easy by making a simple jig and using the weight of the tractor's front blade to create the bend. The bad news is that I need to cut and weld 28 of them (14 per tyre) but that is no big deal.

Cheers from OZ

EMB5530 · Jun 14, 2014

Keep in mind that old star posts are really weak metal so make several extra for repairs.

Looks interesting though ought to grab like no other.:thumbsup:

CNC Dan · Jun 14, 2014

OK, I see what star posts are, but why are they called star posts? Looks like what we in the USA would call "T posts", because of the profile lookin like the letter T.

bcp · Jun 14, 2014

Star post, star pickets, Y-posts:

Star Pickets Ideal for Securing All Kinds of Fences

Bruce

CNC Dan · Jun 14, 2014

bcp said:
Star post, star pickets, Y-posts:

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=379224"/>

Star Pickets Ideal for Securing All Kinds of Fences

Bruce

Thanks, it makes sense now. I've never seen that profile in a fence post before.

Aussiebushman · Jun 14, 2014

In OZ they are called star posts or star pickets -used mostly as intermediates between solid timber posts but also for light fencing jobs and not to be confused with "droppers" that are much lighter and don't go into the ground. I agree the metal is pretty soft but I reckon plenty strong enough to do this job. We shall see!