Crankcase vent

[Brake Weight]

Is smoke from the CC vent from start up to finish bad? It ran hot, up to 230 for a few minutes, so I changed the oil. It was due anyway. Then the smoke started.

 

[winston1]

The "amount" of smoke or blowby from the crankcase vent is what would make it bad. Did this blowby just start at the overheat? None before?

How does yours compare to this? [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLwUS_QGOhU&NR=1]Yanmar 155D Crankcase Vent - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Brake Weight]

About like that. I use Rotella 15w-40.

 

[clemsonfor]

About like that. I use Rotella 15w-40.

The blowby in the video is pretty extreme. I get wiffs at idle sometimes after a hard working of the tractor, even when i rev it up to 2000rpm sitting, ITS no where near like that, faint wiffs taht can only be seen in the sun.

If yours is doing this i think that you either have a bad head gasket which is letting compression into the lower end (would think you would see water in there too?) Or you have worn rings. If this just happened i would keep an eye on it, but if it dosent get any worse i would just live with it. It will probly go another thousand hours easy, just keep checking the oil.

 

[jonyyuma]

The blow-by in the photo is pretty strong. Would you think that changing the oil would stop that kind of pressure..If you had the proper type guage you could read the pressure...We have to read the big cummins in order to assess the repairs as needed... I Bet the little yanmar in the video has a lot of running hours?

 

[careyo63]

Thats pretty extreme. Keep an eye on your fluids if you end up using antifreeze or water you can pretty much bet it blew the Head gasket or warped the Head. Watch your Oil for signs of water in it. etc.

 

[clemsonfor]

For those that dont follow this board as much as others, the video is not the originals guys tractor. This is a stock video pulled from youtube that Winston always posts for those when "blowby" is brought up. Its a good example of extreme case which is why he posts it.

 

[Brake Weight]

I just changed the oil in it and ran it about 4 hours the last few days. No loss in the radiator and the oil is still clear. I did run a Fram filter this time. Should I go get a different filter? There's no knocking to indicate it's starving for oil. I was doing some heavy tilling and some medium bush hogging on the new oil. The tilling was last years small garden, plus about another 1000 square feet of new ground-we got some good rain the day before.

I was looking at Hoye's site and it's gonna be costly to rebuild this myself, if need be, let alone pay someone to do it. I'll run it until it's blantingly obvious where the issue is and start ordering parts. Might as well go ahead and split it and get my high gear back while it's down.

 

[winston1]

I just changed the oil in it and ran it about 4 hours the last few days. No loss in the radiator and the oil is still clear. I did run a Fram filter this time. Should I go get a different filter? There's no knocking to indicate it's starving for oil. I was doing some heavy tilling and some medium bush hogging on the new oil. The tilling was last years small garden, plus about another 1000 square feet of new ground-we got some good rain the day before.

I was looking at Hoye's site and it's gonna be costly to rebuild this myself, if need be, let alone pay someone to do it. I'll run it until it's blantingly obvious where the issue is and start ordering parts. Might as well go ahead and split it and get my high gear back while it's down.

Personally, I think the Fram filter is fine. Any engine with excessive blow by will contaminate the oil much faster. That is why we run detergent oil. It is picking up all the hydrocarbons. You might want to change oil and filter a little more often. I would guess your rings are worn. As long as it starts ok and oil usage is not out of hand you could keep on trucking. No doubt overhaul is in your future if you have blow by equivilant to the video.

Forgot to ask about what caused the over heating? Is that still a problem?

 

[Brake Weight]

The overheating is/has been an issue when ran hard. It's progressively gotten worse. I changed the water pump and did a good flush last summer. I used distilled water, water wetter, and 1/3 antifreeze but it still gets hot. Once it's hot, it takes a long time to cool off. It has trouble transfering the heat. A few squirts from the water hose drops the temp to about a 1/4 of the guage after a few minutes of it evaporating. Ima try to flush the radiator with a mild mix of muratic acid before the summer hits down here. I can see through the fins at the engine, so the outside is clean.

 

[jonyyuma]

If your going to use muratic acid..Be certain that the front is clear..Put a lamp by the water pump and look from the front for the light..I had trouble and flushed it , waterwetter. the works. Then the front had some very fine material inside the screen that had restricted the airflow...Would have seen it first if i had used the light..Washed and light air pressure to remove--HAIR like material?? Where did that come from??Cured>

 

[Smoody]

Did you back flush? I just went through all this with my 2210 getting a bit to warm. back flushing until it runs clear, fill with water, work it until hot, drain. take rad cap off and put a hose in it, take lower rad hose loose, crank engine and let run until all runs clear, I ran mine a good 15 minuted this way. oh of course keep hose running water constantly.

also make sure your fan belt is good and not slipping. I had to tighten mine up.

edit: I also thought my outer fins were clear, but they weren't and weird I noticed some hair like material as jonyyuma mentioned

 

[Brake Weight]

I flushed and backflushed with a water hose. Ran some straight water until it got warm and dumped that. I suspect the radiator isn't transferring enough heat for a hardworking tractor. I'll clean it with some acid and do a good flush again before it gets unbearably hot here.

 

[winston1]

I would sure agree your cooling system needs to be doing the job. If these little Yanmars have a weakness it is not being able to tolerate overheating. That will get a head gasket pretty quick.

 

[clemsonfor]

The overheating is/has been an issue when ran hard. It's progressively gotten worse. I changed the water pump and did a good flush last summer. I used distilled water, water wetter, and 1/3 antifreeze but it still gets hot. Once it's hot, it takes a long time to cool off. It has trouble transfering the heat. A few squirts from the water hose drops the temp to about a 1/4 of the guage after a few minutes of it evaporating. Ima try to flush the radiator with a mild mix of muratic acid before the summer hits down here. I can see through the fins at the engine, so the outside is clean.

I think your head gasket may be slightly blown or your radiator is slap crudded up inside.

As far as the rebuild, i would take the pan off and push the pistons out and rering them and put new rod bearings on it and call it good, i bet this will be all you need!

 

[clemsonfor]

Did you back flush? I just went through all this with my 2210 getting a bit to warm. back flushing until it runs clear, fill with water, work it until hot, drain. take rad cap off and put a hose in it, take lower rad hose loose, crank engine and let run until all runs clear, I ran mine a good 15 minuted this way. oh of course keep hose running water constantly.

also make sure your fan belt is good and not slipping. I had to tighten mine up.

edit: I also thought my outer fins were clear, but they weren't and weird I noticed some hair like material as jonyyuma mentioned

I think you mistyped, if you disconnect the lower hose while running you wont get any fluid to the tractor as it sucks outta the bottom? I was confused by your process and post but get the idea your saying.

 

[Smoody]

I think you mistyped, if you disconnect the lower hose while running you wont get any fluid to the tractor as it sucks outta the bottom? I was confused by your process and post but get the idea your saying.

WOW, i sure did, thanks for pointing that out, I meant the drain plug on the side of the tractor, its a bolt..

 

[Brake Weight]

I removed and flushed/soaked the radiator with muriatic acid today. It was the only kind I could find...labeled 'Green'. It sounds like a weaker solution and isn't labeled with a %. I used it straight and filled the rad. up 3/4 full. Shook it violently then poured it out on a fireant bed. The crud and dark color suggested it worked. I did it a second time but let it sit this time for maybe 15 minutes. This time it had a slight milky coloration. Hopefully it got most of the scale out if it. Three good flushes with a garden hose and three good flushes to the pump side and I reinstalled it. I used distilled water, a little antifreeze, and a 1/3 bottle of water wetter.

The battery was dead so it's gonna spend the night on the charger and hopefully I can give it a whirl tomorrow. I've got about an acre and a 1/2 to till under for the garden this summer. That should be a good workout for the ol' 2000.

 

[Brake Weight]

The acid seemed to have done it. Although it was 65 degrees here, when it normally would be pushing 90-100. I ran it as hard as possible and it never got over a 1/4 on the gauge. Stayed mainly in 2nd gear, WOT, and down around 2000 RPMs. Ran it like this for almost 2 hours.

At start up, the CC vent was blowing good. After it warmed all it was, the CC smoke petered off to just slightly blowing.