Craftsman Cordless Drill

[BB_TX]

I have a 15.6 v Craftsman drill that I bought 5 years ago. I built my metal shop with it putting 1000+ self tapping screws. And have used it extensively since. It has been dropped off the building, bumped, and generally used hard and still works great. I am very happy with it. Now the problem. One of the two batteries has finally died. I priced the batteries at Sears and they are $49.95 each. A new drill just like I have complete with 2 new batteries, charger, and a drill bit set is $69.95. What is wrong with this picture. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Do I just buy a whole new drill? Or is there an alternate source for batteries for a cheaper price? I suppose I could just buy a new one and have 2 drills, 2 chargers, and 3 batteries. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[BillyP]

I've noticed that on all the cordless batteries. Doesn't make much sense to me either.

For 70 bucks, I'd go the new route.

 

[DaveNay]

I am in exactly the same situation myself this summer. I have a 15 year old DeWalt cordless drill (12 volt), and one battery is completely dead, the other only lasts for about 20 minutes, and is weak. A (single) replacement battery will run me almost $100, but I can get a new 14.4 volt unit with two batteries for under $150, or a new 18 volt with two batteries for under $200.

I am going with a new one /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. I just need to decide if the weight of the 18v is worth the extra power.

Dave

 

[SnowRidge]

There are companies that rebuild battery packs. They usually can do it for less than the cost of a new one. This service is heavily advertised for laptop computers, and may or may not be available for drill battery packs. Google should reveal whether it is or isn't.

In the past, I have been able to replace the NiCads themselves in some battery packs, although I have never tried it on a drill. It usually ends up looking like a hack job, but it works. Whether or not it is feasible depends on how the pack is constructed, my ability to get it apart without completely destroying it, the type of cells inside, and their availability from a quality source.

Usually, only one cell is bad. It is best to replace them all, but I have been able to obtain satisfactory service by just replacing the defective cell.

I have a friend who guts his defective 12 volt drill battery packs and solders a power cord to their contacts (on the inside, natch). He then solders either alligator clips or a cigarette lighter plug on the other end and has a drill he can use on car or boat.

That might work on 15.6 volt drill--producing slightly less power--or it might not work at all.

 

[GerardC]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I suppose I could just buy a new one and have 2 drills, 2 chargers, and 3 batteries. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)</font>

That is what I would do. That way you can have a drill in two different locations as well. G

 

[beenthere]

I have the same dilema, with a DeWalt. I actually bought a portable saw with two batteries (12v) and now have 3 bats for two tools. But, I also added another portable drill and went to 14v, and learned the batteries don't last near as long as the 12v, (so use the 12v for most of my work). Replacements are in the neighborhood of $50 (checked today, $49) for the DeWalt. Have not seen the $100 price for them.

I'd be interested in the approach to replace the dead cells, if anyone knows the clever ways how to do it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[SnowRidge]

<font color="red"> (I'd be interested in the approach to replace the dead cells, if anyone knows the clever ways how to do it.) </font>

You carefully work the pack apart by prying on the seams. I've never been able to do it without at least cosmetic damage. Note any temperature sensors and how they are positioned in the pack.

Once apart, measure the voltage across each individual cell. The bad cell will be markedly different than the rest.

Obtain a physically and electrically identical cell and solder it into the pack, replacing the bad cell. The cells are often spot welded together using short jumper bars (for lack of a better term). Usually, these can be replaced by copper wires.

Reassemble the pack being careful to get any sensor back into the same position. Use model cement or the like to reglue the seams. If necessary, wrap pack in a thin layer of electrical tape to help hold it together.

 

[beenthere]

SnowRidge
Thank you for the tip. I will try that approach. Have to do some searching for replacements, but maybe the local battery shop or Radio Shack will work.
Thanks

 

[SnowRidge]

beenthere -- I use RipShack batteries, of any kind, only in desperation.

 

[BobReeves]

Had the same situation with my Makita 12 volt drill, could get a new drill with two batteries and charger for less that what two batteries cost. That is why I now have 3 drills. Actually the extra drills come in handy, I can leave the screw driver bit in one, the pilot drill in another and a clearance drill in the 3rd. Easier to switch the battery than the bit /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[banjobj]

Buy the new one.

 

[JDgreen227]

I've been buying various models of cordless drills since 1990, my first two were 9.6 volt B&D with keyed chucks and metal cases (remember those?) that set me back $120 each. I still have the drills and they work well but replacement batteries are $53 each....

Since then I have gone through Dewalt 12 and 14.4 volt, Skil 14.4 volt, various models of Craftsman 9,6, 13.2, 15.6, and 16.8 volt models, the drills have usually held up well but when the batteries need replacing, you are better off buying a new drill. My all time favorite was the Dewalt 14.4 with the XR pack batteries.

I have never understood how it works....one replacement battery is $50, a new "smart" charger is $60 when purchased separately, yet you can buy the kit with a drill, two batteries, and a case for $100, usually discounted.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif.

There's a website, voltmanbatteries.com, in Ohio, that specializes in remanufacturing cordless tool batteries, but I never visited it...gonna go check it out. They may be out of business now, who knows.

 

[BIGUN]

Adding to what SnowRidge said. I have repaired a few battery packs myself. If you have a voltmeter, check each cell individually. The voltage should be around 1.2 volts if the cell is good, any cell reading under 1 volt will likely need replacing.

When replacing the bad cell, if you break the jumper bar off the dead cell at the spot weld you can then simply solder it back to the new cell.

I have found the seams on many pack cases welded together so tightly that it is easier to get it apart by carefully using a little cut-off wheel attached to a Dremel Tool.

Use caution working on these battery packs! Even a partially dead pack can still have enough current to cause burns or a fire if shorted. The bad thing is you can’t just unplug it when this happens. The burning will continue until you clear the short or it burns clear.
Don’t ask how I know this. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[frank_f15]

its like the inkjet printers, sell you the printer very cheap and kill you on the replacement cartridges. get the new drill just make sure the batteries are interchangeable