cracked rim HELP! HELP!

[promodranger]

This is the good wheel.I have a 7010 cab/air. My front LEFT rim is cracked between the lugs. Welded it, but cracks come back. Thinking about it, I turn to the right 80-90% of the time making hay. Problem is thay wont sell me the inner part, I have to buy the whole wheel assy. $900. ANY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Texan4Life]

interesting... can you post a pic?

 

[Gary Fowler]

See my post on other thread for detailed welding. You need to v bevel it from one side, weld it up then flip it and v bevel the other side and weld. Use 7018 rods for more crack resistance. You have to completely remove the crack and replace with full penetration weld to keep the crack from coming back. V bevel each side more than 50% so you end up removing all the original metal and replace it all with weld metal. IF the crack is from bolt hole to bolt hole, weld from the ends to the middle so your stops are in the middle and all your starts are at the bolt holes. Use a carbide burring tool or dremel tool with abrasive cone to remove the excess metal from the bolt holes when finished.

 

[civesnedfield]

Should have seen if was a Titan rim before welding it. I think they have a pretty long term warranty.

 

[Reyer Farms]

See my post on other thread for detailed welding. You need to v bevel it from one side, weld it up then flip it and v bevel the other side and weld. Use 7018 rods for more crack resistance. You have to completely remove the crack and replace with full penetration weld to keep the crack from coming back. V bevel each side more than 50% so you end up removing all the original metal and replace it all with weld metal. IF the crack is from bolt hole to bolt hole, weld from the ends to the middle so your stops are in the middle and all your starts are at the bolt holes. Use a carbide burring tool or dremel tool with abrasive cone to remove the excess metal from the bolt holes when finished.

I concur Dr. I would also like to stress clean, clean, clean. Just like new metal. I would also heat the metal and let it anneal back then weld. While heating you can look for other problem areas. Weapon of choice specifically 3/32 7018 at lower amps. Take your time, don't over weld. Good luck.

 

[SPYDERLK]

See my post on other thread for detailed welding. You need to v bevel it from one side, weld it up then flip it and v bevel the other side and weld. Use 7018 rods for more crack resistance. You have to completely remove the crack and replace with full penetration weld to keep the crack from coming back. V bevel each side more than 50% so you end up removing all the original metal and replace it all with weld metal. IF the crack is from bolt hole to bolt hole, weld from the ends to the middle so your stops are in the middle and all your starts are at the bolt holes. Use a carbide burring tool or dremel tool with abrasive cone to remove the excess metal from the bolt holes when finished.

Yes! Then peen the welds with a needle scaler. On reassembly use high strength washers under the bolt heads or nuts to spread the clamp force to a wider area of metal.
larry

 

[Reyer Farms]

Sypderlk,
A needle scaler is a pretty specific tool, I don't even know a welder that has one. I have only seen them in factories. Now it just could be I'm behind. Would the chipping or ball peen hammer do the trick? Is there an advantage to the scaler other than speed of peening?

 

[Boostinjdm]

Sypderlk,
A needle scaler is a pretty specific tool, I don't even know a welder that has one.

I have one. Get's used for peening welds, chipping slag in tight spots, and heavy rust removal. The little one from harbor freight is awesome.

 

[Reyer Farms]

I have one. Get's used for peening welds, chipping slag in tight spots, and heavy rust removal. The little one from harbor freight is awesome.

Well, I reckon I need to take trip to harbor freight. I have seen your work, especially your trailers, and you are quite craftsman. I don't go to ww much anymore so I have not seen what you have done lately but I'm sure it is still first rate.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well, I reckon I need to take trip to harbor freight. I have seen your work, especially your trailers, and you are quite craftsman. I don't go to ww much anymore so I have not seen what you have done lately but I'm sure it is still first rate.

That scaler is just $20 til 12/31 I think. The problem with new scalers is the new needles still have sharp squared off ends. Try to blunt the edges a little by using it against concrete at an angle for a few minutes. Dont forget to oil it in the air port and keep the sales slip. Warranty is a year and some of the cheap ones like HF will malfunction by then.
larry

 

[Boostinjdm]

Don't bother buying a spare set of needles. They actually hold up pretty good. From the reviews I read before buying, it sounds like if the scaler works right out of the box then you're good to go. I've worked it pretty hard on a few projects and it keeps on workin. Much easier to handle than the big ones too.

I just do what I can with what I've got...

 

[Reyer Farms]

Thank y'all for the info.

 

[jwcinpk]

I used my 7010 in the building of my poultry houses and broke 3 or 4 rims like that. My dealer warrantied them all, but by the time I was done he too had broken both front rims on his. We built plates that weld to the rim and haven't had a problem since. I'd be glad to make you a set and send them to you. I can't remember what it cost, but it was much much less than the inner of a wheel. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow.

 

[promodranger]

I found one in OK. I'am interested in the plates. Are you having problems with the outer tie rods. Mine only last 2-3 months. Gone threw 5 both sides. $110 ea. My tires hit the loader frame. I've put longer stop bolts and thay break off or bend. My dealer won't help. Gave me a bag of bolts. SUCKS!!!!

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

I would build up some weld on the steering stop points and use the original adjustment bolts.

 

[DavesTractor]

I used my 7010 in the building of my poultry houses and broke 3 or 4 rims like that. My dealer warrantied them all, but by the time I was done he too had broken both front rims on his. We built plates that weld to the rim and haven't had a problem since. I'd be glad to make you a set and send them to you. I can't remember what it cost, but it was much much less than the inner of a wheel. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow.

Sounds like the rims were a little light duty on that model. Building reinforcing rings will fix the problem forever as you have mentioned. You'll see them welded into the rims of rental tractors sometimes. If done right they look good and work well. I sure wouldn't buy new wheel centers.