Cracked bell housing in a 2006 110TLB
- Thread starter hugho
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DocDryden
Gold Member
Yes, I do have a lot of photos on the 110. Not sure if it's an obsession or a hobby. I just LOVE my 110!!!!
If anyone needs any 110 photos just ask. I would just like to say thanks to all the members on TBN for all the help and patience with me (when I was looking for my 110).
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hugho
Bronze Member
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- Jackson WY
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- 2013 Kubota M6040 Cab model, 2010 Kubota L45, 1978 Allis Chalmers AC5050 4wd, 2010 Kubota 1100 side by side with snow plow
I actually do not know if the cracks which I saw on 2 units always crack in the same place. The photo I posted shows (poorly!) the crack which runs fore/aft high on the bell housing just an inch or two down. Inside that housing I think is a hydraulic pump. There is another real fine post of a guy who said his housing cracked from loose mounting bolts.
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hugho
Bronze Member
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- Jan 22, 2011
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- 53
- Location
- Jackson WY
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- 2013 Kubota M6040 Cab model, 2010 Kubota L45, 1978 Allis Chalmers AC5050 4wd, 2010 Kubota 1100 side by side with snow plow
I haven't given up on the 110 because I have my eyes on one with pretty high hours which has been super well maintained and runs beautifully in all respects. The price I have offered reflects the hours and the risk of a fracture. In the meantime a low hour Kubota L45 just fell out of the sky and landed in my yard and I hope it performs as good as it looks. The engine and tranny, are more isolated from the FEL than the Deere and underneath it looks structurally very robust and access to serviceable components looks exceptional. I looked at a M59 which looked like a big daddy version of the 45 and it was pretty sweet and really what I wanted and if I had had another $10G+ it would be parked next to the garage instead of the L45.
Industrial Toys
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- Kubota R510 Wheel Loader + Cab and backhoe, JD 6200 Open Station, Cushman 6150, 4x4, ten foot 56 hp Kubota diesel hydraulic wing mower, Steiner 430 Diesel Max, Kawasaki Diesel Mule, JD 4x2 Electric Gator
I loved that 110 from the first time I saw one and wanted one in the worst way. My father talked me out of it. Quite frankly, it IS a beautiful machine within it's limitations, but frankly I think JD oversold the machine in a very clever marketing campagne. Like speaking of their dozers transmissions in the 110 brochure. This is basically a 4000 series compact tractor, nothing more, nothing less. If you don't believe me, do a parts comparison from the 4000 transmission/rear axle to the 110. Just because it is yellow, has the numbering scheme of their TLBs and has little covers over the valve stems does not put it into the category of construction grade equipment. Therefore I am not surprised that people are breaking the poor little critters!
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- Cat D3, Deere 110 TLB, Kubota BX23 and L3800 and RTV900 with restored 1948 Deere M, 1949 Farmall Cub, 1953 Ford Jubliee and 1957 Ford 740 Row Crop, Craftsman Mower, Deere 350C Dozer 50 assorted vehicles from 1905 to 2006
So far so good... mine was used for a lot of backhoe digging... no so much for loader work.
The loader is all good and tight... some of the backhoe pins not so much.
My problem is I have completed most of my 110 projects and it is getting very few hours annually... was going to take it out to my brothers ranch and he was not so keen on the idea... thinking I would not be too happy if something happened to it out there... at least it would be in a nice barn year round and so would me PJ trailer...
Just hate having equipment stored outside...
Now... if only I had the rear thumb option I would by a hydraulic auger for the backhoe in a heartbeat.
The loader is all good and tight... some of the backhoe pins not so much.
My problem is I have completed most of my 110 projects and it is getting very few hours annually... was going to take it out to my brothers ranch and he was not so keen on the idea... thinking I would not be too happy if something happened to it out there... at least it would be in a nice barn year round and so would me PJ trailer...
Just hate having equipment stored outside...
Now... if only I had the rear thumb option I would by a hydraulic auger for the backhoe in a heartbeat.
Nobhill
Member
I've persevered the cracked bell housing problem twice now. The first time it happened, the poor Deere little yellow (2006) machine was six months out of warranty. I was simply pulling one of those steel T-shaped fence posts out of the ground at the same time that I didn't realize that the front boom stabilizer bolts had come loose... again (I carried a wrench in the glove box to tighten those rouge bolts every couple of hours or so). The incident cost me $21k in repairs, only to find out later that Deere had previously published a service bulletin acknowledging the propensity for these integral fasteners to head south and cause mega damage. (Thanks for letting me know about this design flaw, Mr. JD Dealer; I'll be sure to add you to my Christmas list... not!!)
Anyway, the same issue reoccurred last fall, this time probably due to me picking up a load in the the 4-in-1 bucket and in the backhoe at the same time (I didn't know I wasn't supposed to do that). It seems that the vertical stress is borne by the two lower rails on the left and right side, and by the drive train itself on the upper side. Whatever the cause, the machine broke in half like the Titanic and menacingly waved another $21k+ repair bill in my face. This time, I didn't bite.
I paid a retired pro welder $15 hun to reconnect the two halves of the (what he said was cast iron) bell housing, instead of shelling out $7k for the OEM version of the transmission bell housing (again). I did the re-and-re myself and plan on adding front-to-back topside reinforcing rails, even if I have to climb over the bloody things to get in the operator's seat!
I have just one question... the markings I made on the front boom hose connections to know where to reconnect them were erased by the hydraulic fluid when draining the lines. Does:anyone: have a reconnection diagram?
Anyway, the same issue reoccurred last fall, this time probably due to me picking up a load in the the 4-in-1 bucket and in the backhoe at the same time (I didn't know I wasn't supposed to do that). It seems that the vertical stress is borne by the two lower rails on the left and right side, and by the drive train itself on the upper side. Whatever the cause, the machine broke in half like the Titanic and menacingly waved another $21k+ repair bill in my face. This time, I didn't bite.
I paid a retired pro welder $15 hun to reconnect the two halves of the (what he said was cast iron) bell housing, instead of shelling out $7k for the OEM version of the transmission bell housing (again). I did the re-and-re myself and plan on adding front-to-back topside reinforcing rails, even if I have to climb over the bloody things to get in the operator's seat!
I have just one question... the markings I made on the front boom hose connections to know where to reconnect them were erased by the hydraulic fluid when draining the lines. Does:anyone: have a reconnection diagram?
DocDryden
Gold Member
Nobhill,
I,m not sure which hoses you are referring to.
I can take some photos of the hoses on my 110, if that will help
Nobhill
Member
It's the hoses that come from the valve controlled by the joystick that go to the front boom raise/lower, bucket curl up/down and the auxiliary electric valve that controls the 4-in-1 bucket jaws. Pics attached.
