That's it in a nutshell. But in this day and age it costs significant time and money just to attend all those auctions, although many find enjoyment in it whether they come home with something or not.
Converting 7000# car hauler to 10000#?
- Thread starter Lasgambler
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Renze
Super Member
I must add, my brother bought it for his business (farm/blacksmith) and 95% of used horse trailers are bought new by private people, which means that you cant get tax back when a business buys it used. When a dealer trades it from a private person, its in the "margin" and when the dealer trades it from a commercial company or farm, its within the VAT regulation.
I wont bother you with further details about our tax system, but due to mentioned reasons it can be cheaper to buy new and deduct tax, than to buy used from a private individual and not be able to get tax back...
So the whole thing about auctions is people driving each other up, afraid to stop at their maximum price when they dont know where the other guy might stop bidding ??
Renze
Super Member
It might work, because the axles are then spread over a longer distance, releasing stress from the frame. However it would twist more on the frame when cornering.
That totally depends on the axle center distance in relation to the frame length.
However i still agree with others, who said that its far cheaper to start looking for a steal deal on a 10k trailer and buy when the opportunity is there. You still have your 7k trailer, so if you're in no hurry you can just wait on the opportunity of a steal deal.
medicshawn
Platinum Member
I'm having the same problem. For me it's also a length issue. I really need a longer trailer my 16ft isn't cutting it. I'm looking for a 20ft 10K to replace my 16ft 7K. I'm pretty close on weight probabaly 500-1000 Lbs. I don't tow my tractor very often but if I keep what I have it will be a pain every time.
OP
Lasgambler
Gold Member
I considered doing that. It would be cheaper to do. My work trailering my tractor is 90% on rural private, gravel roads. I know my tires and the axle spindles are probaly my weak link. Maybe the coupler too. I was just trying to make it less likely to blow a tire. Towing on these roads is a slow process. Terry
RickB
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Tri-axle trailers have their own set of problems and shortcomings. A tri-axle trailer rated at 10,500 lbs is close to the dumbest hauling scheme I have ever heard of. Why not just man up and sell the light trailer and buy one built for the job? The cost differential can't possibly be much more than the cost of completely bastardizing a perfectly good 7000# trailer.
structures282
New member
So I was browsing the internet looking for discussion on 7000lb vs 10000lb trailers b/c I'm looking to build one or the other. I stumbled across this thread and thought maybe I could offer up some comments.
Lasgambler I'm curious if your trailer is a car hauler type (no uprights) built out of 5" channel framing with 2 X 3 X 1/4" cross members. If so I would say the frame itself is capable of a 10400 gross. You'll need to upgrade the coupler and the springs, possibly the wheels/tires (depending the current capacity).
Lasgambler I'm curious if your trailer is a car hauler type (no uprights) built out of 5" channel framing with 2 X 3 X 1/4" cross members. If so I would say the frame itself is capable of a 10400 gross. You'll need to upgrade the coupler and the springs, possibly the wheels/tires (depending the current capacity).
OP
Lasgambler
Gold Member
Thanks for a reply on a more "Positive Note". I have an 18 ft. flat with 5 inch channel frame. I think the cross members are only 3X1 1/2 channel.
As for as "Maning up and by a 10400" I could sell mine for 1500 maybe and put about $2100 with that and buy a 10400# or I could spend $800 for a new 3500# axle with brakes, a new coupler, 2 new tires and wheels. I don't know, it is a hard dicision, $2100 out or $800 out. Terry
JB4310
Super Member
5" channel frame sounds good, but still at the end of the day your only gonna save a grand and your gonna end up with a home made trailer for all intents and purposes.
Might have trouble registering it and if your needs ever change, might have trouble selling it as a 5 ton.
JB.
Might have trouble registering it and if your needs ever change, might have trouble selling it as a 5 ton.
JB.
structures282
New member
I wouldn't do the 3rd axle option. It could mess up the trailers axle/tongue ratio and most likely will pull awkwardly. And well it'll look funny. But don't sweat the 1.5" X 3" cross members. The stiffness comes from the vertical flange (3 inch length) and 1.5 inches of weld will give you plenty of shear strength. What's the spacing of your cross members? 16 inches? That would be good. You really should upgrade your coupler to 2-5/16. Get axles with brakes on them. I would recommend both axles w/ brakes, 10000 lbs is a lot to stop. Now as for registering I can't help you there. In the great state of OK we don't have those sort of regs. I'm just happy when somebody has a trailer with 4 working tires. 
Also you'll prob need to upgrade the wheels and tires. The rating for the wheels should be stamped somewhere on the inner side and the tires are posted on the sidewall. So no less than 2600lbs per wheel/tire.
As for cost: $350 per axle + $130 per wheel-tire + $90 per 2-5/16 bulldog coupler.
So around $1450 (tax!) for all new parts. Maybe you could find some used parts cheaper.
Also you'll prob need to upgrade the wheels and tires. The rating for the wheels should be stamped somewhere on the inner side and the tires are posted on the sidewall. So no less than 2600lbs per wheel/tire.
As for cost: $350 per axle + $130 per wheel-tire + $90 per 2-5/16 bulldog coupler.
So around $1450 (tax!) for all new parts. Maybe you could find some used parts cheaper.
I was never saying adding the third axle was the best option just the cheapest. Money is tight for a lot of folks right now, so not everyone can run out and buy a new trailer but of course that would be the best option which I'm sure everyone here already knows. The other thing is if you replace the axles and they are still in good shape you could probably sell them on craigslist to recoup some of your money.
RickB
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And when you are done you have a trailer that is worth less to an informed buyer than what you have now. You are not addressing the issue of the manufacturer's tag, or do you live in a state where you can scribble any GVW on the registration form?
Apparently a "response on a positive note" amounts to telling you what you want to hear. I apologize for not being able to do that.
OP
Lasgambler
Gold Member
No problem. To each his own. I would much rather find a decent 10400# for a reasonable price. I am thinking of ways to make ,do with, what I have in the mean time. The places I tow my tractor you may not see anyone all day long and possibly 2 or 3 days. Some of those areas there is no cell service.
I, along with most everyone I know, like hearing something positive instead of negative. Isn't that what a forum is for? Everyones oppinion counts, whether good or bad.
Terry
Diamondpilot
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I would not want to head out to the boonies like you do with equipment that is not up to the task. No help, and if you have a problem it may end up costing you a lot more $$$$ in the end.
Chris
jimainiac
Platinum Member
I can sympathize with the urge to make do with what you have and upgrade it for heavier use, but it's kind of similar to trying to make a 1/2 ton pickup into a 3/4 ton. I like the idea of selling the trailer and finding a 10,000# one (much less work involved). If you could get a 20' bed you'd gain a lot of flexability in getting the weight distributed, too. We have a 20 footer, and depending on the attachment on the tractor things sometimes end up hanging over the rear end. Good luck with whichever choice you make.
Sackett2
Platinum Member
I was looking for a trailer back in the late 90's, and in ND, the prices were high then; about 2000. for a 16' tandem. I found Terry's trailers TerrysTrailers
The trailer started in the 700$ range, add about 100 for the brakes per axle, another 90. for the pipe top (over angle iron) and 75.(?) for the ramps. My total bill was 1080. It had used tires and the deck was pine with no gaps for water to seep out. I hadn't checked yet with this new knowledge, but i think it is a 5" c frame.
We've redecked it and added a toolbox and lots of scratches; but it has been a great trailer, never let me down. When I had the Montana on it with the FEL and Hog (rear blade aslo on the trailer) the total weight was 6700 lbs.
I do wonder what the prices of his trailers are now....
The trailer started in the 700$ range, add about 100 for the brakes per axle, another 90. for the pipe top (over angle iron) and 75.(?) for the ramps. My total bill was 1080. It had used tires and the deck was pine with no gaps for water to seep out. I hadn't checked yet with this new knowledge, but i think it is a 5" c frame.
We've redecked it and added a toolbox and lots of scratches; but it has been a great trailer, never let me down. When I had the Montana on it with the FEL and Hog (rear blade aslo on the trailer) the total weight was 6700 lbs.
I do wonder what the prices of his trailers are now....
